Ordered A CMP Garand: Need Ammo

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BradN

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I've been long interested in an M! Garand. This forum educated me about the GCA and CMP. I submitted my order for a Springfield Service Grade earlier this week. I'm checking the e-store several times a day.

Now, my question. Should I go with the CMP surplus ammo? I understand that the CMP M1 comes with a single clip and the CMP ammo is in boxes. I've seen some dealers offering bulk ammo pre-loaded in clips and bandoleers. Might not this be a better first choice to build up a supply of clips?

Thanks for any suggestions or links.

Brad
 
www.JGsales.com

Clips are .50 a piece. Get them there.

As it is your first garand, I would stay away from the corosive ammo for the first order at least. That is what comes already loaded.

The Korean PS ammo is in boxes and is not corosive. And it shoots well. There were some bad lots but I think those are gone now. None of mine had any problems.

CMP is good, but if you don't want to spend that much at first get the korean in boxes marked PS. 400 rnds for around $70-$80
 
The CMP ammo is a good deal as it is Lake City Arsenal milsurp and non-corrosive and reloadable. The 960 rounds for $230 delivered is a great pricel

Buy a dozen or so enbloc clips to start and simply load the ammo into them as you shoot. I found a dozen re-parked clips for $9.00 at a local show and they are in excellent shape. They really won't wear out with repeated use.

Be careful with some of the Korean ammo. Some of the stuff in bandoleers and clips is corrosive stuff even though the vendor says it's not. Here's a link about milsurp ammo that I found that might be of some help:
http://www.100megsfree4.com/airground/ammo/ammo.htm If you click on the "Korean" hyperling on the page, there is a listing of lot numbers and codes that will help identify corrosive ammo. Even if you do shoot some corrosive stuff, simply liberally spray the chamber and bolt face with Windex with Ammonia to kill the salts in the primer. Then clean as usual afte any shooting day.
 
Last I checked, ammoman.com had the Danish surplus. Why the Danes were making and putting it onto Garand clips in '91 is beyond me, but that's matter for a different thread. :) The CMP M2 ball is the best deal in town right now, though.
 
Korean ammo is corrosive???


????, I think I just ruined two Garands and a 1917. :mad:

I'll have to check later, but I shot them weeks ago with loads of the stuff. :cuss:

Natchez said is was non corrosive, etc. :fire:
 
I just called Natchez, a nice gentleman helped me, he explained that it IS corrosive, and that they should've put the correct description on the website in the first place.

He said that normally the people who take phone orders tell the customers that it IS corrosive. I think I'll be calling in my orders now.

No deception on Natchez's part (no surprise there!) and I'm happy again.
 
I've had good luck with the Danish ammo in my CMP Garand. Accurate and reliable. It is steel cored, so don't be shooting it at steel targets.
 
It's corrosive, yes.

But it's cheap.

Had it been sold to me as corrosive, I would be fine. I didn't know, and I thought I had rusted a few barrels. They're all fine, so if Natchez lists that ammo as corrosive, I'll be happy.

If not, then they're lying. It's clearly marked as "US MILITARY SPECS" right in the ad. It doesn't say what year of specifications, though.... :rolleyes:
 
"Had it been sold to me as corrosive, I would be fine. I didn't know, and I thought I had rusted a few barrels."

Just so it doesn't go unsaid...

If you're shooting milsurp ammo you might just as well assume it's corrosive unless you somehow know for certain that it's not.

That said, there is nothing wrong with shooting corrosive ammo. Most milsurps, including, I would bet, a good many Garands, have had nothing but corrosive ammo fired in them. The trick is to clean correctly and quickly, preferably at the range while the rifle is still hot.

The salts left by the corrosive primers dissolve in water, so use Windex, household ammonia, or plain water to get most of the crud out. Then use your favorite bore cleaner and preservative. *Don't presume your bore cleaner will remove the corrosive salts, because some will not.* Check the rifle again in a few days to be certain everything's OK.

Tim
 
you can tell it is corrosive after you have shot some of it and check you
rifle a couple of days later if there is rust in the gas cyl. and on the piston
it is corrosive
 
Because I shoot a fair amount of corrosive 7.62x54R ammo in my Mosin 91/30, I carry a quart spray bottle of Windex with Ammonia in my cleaning box. Immediately after shooting, I soak down the bolt face and chamber of my 91/30 with this stuff. The ammonia neutralizes the salts found in the primers of the corrosive ammo. When I get home, I just clean the rifle as usual.

If you do shoot the Korean ammos with the "KA" headstamp, you may want to do the same thing. Just remember to spray liberally immediately after shooting and you should be OK. The Korean "PS" headstamp is supposedly non-corrosive and should not be a problem.
 
Well, of course it's a personal preference thing...
Myself, I do not shoot any Korean KA. I do shoot Korean PS out of an 03 & 03A3. Danish in my Garands. When I'm out of that (cannot buy from Ammoman, etc. due to MA Atty Genrl.), it will be CMP ammo time!

For corrosive Mauser 8mm, I use Windex at the Range. No hot water there, so Windex is handy.
 
As it is your first garand, I would stay away from the corosive ammo for the first order at least. That is what comes already loaded.
Click to expand...

The Korean PS ammo is in boxes and is not corosive. And it shoots well. There were some bad lots but I think those are gone now. None of mine had any problems.
Click to expand...

Some lots of PS have proven corrosive too. I wouldn't mess with the stuff. If you do shoot corrosive, you have to disassemble far enough to clean the gas system every time you shoot.

The CMP ammo is a good deal as it is Lake City Arsenal milsurp and non-corrosive and reloadable. The 960 rounds for $230 delivered is a great pricel
Click to expand...

Let's see here... 400rds for $70-80 plus shipping vs. 960rds of US noncorrosive M2 ball for $230 delivered...

I wanted to pick up Danish in clips/bandos, but I don't see it around. Plus, Danish ain't reloadable. I wound up getting one of those few 400-rusty-clip deals (actually they're not all that rusty and not many of the ones I've inspected thus far) from CMP. All I gotta do is buy a case of GI ball every so often and load all my clips.

One thing about the CMP ammo- this 12million rds they just started selling was delinked. When my first came in, I got to see the cases are kinda discolored, but I'm sure they'll polish up after I shoot 'em.

I've had good luck with the Danish ammo in my CMP Garand. Accurate and reliable. It is steel cored, so don't be shooting it at steel targets.
Click to expand...

Just plain FMJ will punch right through a car body. It don't have to be steel core.

To clean for corrosive, I use a mix of water and straight amonia- half and half. Dunk a patch on the cleaning rod in the bottle and swab the bore and bolt face right then.
 
You can find out which PS korean lots are corrosive if you look on the internet. Ask what lot it is when you call in the order. CMP is great but some people don't have $230 laying aroound after buying the rifle. Thats why I suggested Korean PS. I have shot over 2000 rounds of it with no problems.
 
ammoman.com has it. $19 delivered for a 48 round bandoleer. Cheaper by the case.
Click to expand...

Yeah, now that you mention it... but I remember when it was $12/bandoleer and $140something for a 624rd case.
 
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