I am missing a 1903 from my collection. I like the WW rifles and have most of the majors but a 1903 is missing. I was at a gun show today and saw them priced from 1800 to 400 dollars. I just want a good shooting rifle that I can shoot a few times a year. My 303 is not the prettiest rifle but shoots great even thought the bore is frosty. I am out of my league and I know that some of you know the real deal. Could I get some suggestions? Thanks
Overwhelmed about 1903
- Thread starter Sailct41
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gyvel
Member
If you want a 1903 to shoot, make sure you don't buy a "low number" gun. That's 800,000 on the Springfield manufactured guns and 285507 on the Rock Island made Springfields.
au_prospector
Member
Its not a Mosin
I think you would be hard pressed to find a good quality shooter 1903 for less than $400. This appears to be your question anyway.
Unless one falls in your lap, your looking more like $700 and up.
I think you would be hard pressed to find a good quality shooter 1903 for less than $400. This appears to be your question anyway.
Unless one falls in your lap, your looking more like $700 and up.
carbine85
Member
A good 03 will set you back $600 plus. There are several variations, the earlier ones bring a premium. The low serial number rifles aren't really the problem they are made out to be. They lasted several wars and then some. They will most likely stand up to your needs.
You can find a Gibbs refurbished for around $700. They are built from parts but get reviews.
You can find a Gibbs refurbished for around $700. They are built from parts but get reviews.
Try to buy the highest number 1903 that you can. Even though there are those that still shoot low number Springfields, most that do so tend to use cast bullet loads. It is not a matter of them just suddenly blowing up for no reason, but when they do, they tend to shatter the receiver.
You might also consider a 1903-A3. All are made with nickel steel receivers and bolts and will shoot any modern load. An added bonus is that the sights are better on the 'A3's
Knowledge is your friend when buying a 1903. There are LOTS of substandard parts guns out there. DO NOT buy any 1903 or 1903-A3 that is not made by anyone else than the arsenals at Springfield or Rock Island or by the private companies of Remington and Smith-Corona.
Just like anything else that has become popular, there are sellers that think their '03 is made of gold. Only very high condition 1903's are really worth much more than $1000. Before you spend that kind of money, I would talk to someone that is knowledgeable about these guns.
Most decent 1903's and 'A3's usually will bring $600-900 dollars depending on the maker and the model. Rare versions like a National Match or a NRA sporting rifle will bring more. Any of them that have been drilled and tapped for commercial scopes will be worth much less, although there are a few very rare USMC sniper rifles that are set up for scopes. Of course there are the '03-A4 WWII sniper rifles, but they are bringing BIG money nowadays.
I am including a few pics of correct receiver markings on Springfield, Remington and Smith-Corona rifles.
You might also consider a 1903-A3. All are made with nickel steel receivers and bolts and will shoot any modern load. An added bonus is that the sights are better on the 'A3's
Knowledge is your friend when buying a 1903. There are LOTS of substandard parts guns out there. DO NOT buy any 1903 or 1903-A3 that is not made by anyone else than the arsenals at Springfield or Rock Island or by the private companies of Remington and Smith-Corona.
Just like anything else that has become popular, there are sellers that think their '03 is made of gold. Only very high condition 1903's are really worth much more than $1000. Before you spend that kind of money, I would talk to someone that is knowledgeable about these guns.
Most decent 1903's and 'A3's usually will bring $600-900 dollars depending on the maker and the model. Rare versions like a National Match or a NRA sporting rifle will bring more. Any of them that have been drilled and tapped for commercial scopes will be worth much less, although there are a few very rare USMC sniper rifles that are set up for scopes. Of course there are the '03-A4 WWII sniper rifles, but they are bringing BIG money nowadays.
I am including a few pics of correct receiver markings on Springfield, Remington and Smith-Corona rifles.
It took me years of searching to find an all military 03, then a bunch were released by the CMP, and now, they are gone. Don’t expect them to get any cheaper especially if it turns out those were the last bunch in till we get another Ronald Regan as President. At best that might be a couple of generations out there, I think it more likely the ice caps will melt first from Global Warming.
If I were looking for a 03 I would look for something with a good barrel. The WW2 barrels, particulary the High Standard, were good barrels. Every WW1 and 20's barrel I examined had been shot so much that the barrel was getting closer to a smooth bore than a rifled barrel. Sedgley barrels were good. Check the bedding, if the barrel is touching the top of the upper band, then you will have to rebed that rear lug or the action will stay bowed. I would check the slop in the rear sight, but it will be pointless. Only factory new or NM 03’s have rear sights that move easily without teeter tottering from side to side. I spent hours pounding and lapping my rear sight to take out all the left to right error.
I would replace the mainspring with the lightest Wolff mainspring. I think it is an 18 or 20 pounder. Original mainsprings are always worn out and a replacement spring tends to crispen the trigger pull. Also tends to increase it, but the lock time is a heck of a lot better.
If you can find the Marine Corp front sight put that in. It is wider and easier to see, brings the point of impact of the battle sight down to 200 yards. Also, given the choice between a pistol grip and a straight grip stock, all things being equal, get the pistol grip. The straight grip stock is positively painful to shoot; I can still remember the swollen cheeks and lips from the recoil. You will learn to point the right thumb straight ahead! Also, the pistol grip stock is a little longer, will keep your shooting glasses off the cocking piece during recoil.
I always shot the M1903A3's better than the 03's, at least out to 200 yards. Beyond that the fixed, and always off, quantum elevation of the A3 requires "Kentucky windage" to center the group.
Back in the 50's and 60's, civilian service rifle shooters generally shot with A3's. The military made it just about impossible to get a Garand, you could, if you traveled to Camp Perry, get a NM, but otherwise, all that were available were A3's. Of course that made it very difficult to earn your Distinguished, or get a President's patch. Shooting at 300 and 600 yards was a lot of work with a A3. Compared to the wonderful rear sight of a Garand the A3 sight is primitive. Windage on a A3 is irregular and then you have to hold off for elevation. The Club President did not get a Garand until the 80's, but, he was able to buy a Devine M1a in the 70's!. Till then, he was competing against National Guard, Reserve, AMU team members who had either matched out Garands or M14's while all he had was his A3.
Life can be unfair, and sometimes, it is planned that way.
If I were looking for a 03 I would look for something with a good barrel. The WW2 barrels, particulary the High Standard, were good barrels. Every WW1 and 20's barrel I examined had been shot so much that the barrel was getting closer to a smooth bore than a rifled barrel. Sedgley barrels were good. Check the bedding, if the barrel is touching the top of the upper band, then you will have to rebed that rear lug or the action will stay bowed. I would check the slop in the rear sight, but it will be pointless. Only factory new or NM 03’s have rear sights that move easily without teeter tottering from side to side. I spent hours pounding and lapping my rear sight to take out all the left to right error.
I would replace the mainspring with the lightest Wolff mainspring. I think it is an 18 or 20 pounder. Original mainsprings are always worn out and a replacement spring tends to crispen the trigger pull. Also tends to increase it, but the lock time is a heck of a lot better.
If you can find the Marine Corp front sight put that in. It is wider and easier to see, brings the point of impact of the battle sight down to 200 yards. Also, given the choice between a pistol grip and a straight grip stock, all things being equal, get the pistol grip. The straight grip stock is positively painful to shoot; I can still remember the swollen cheeks and lips from the recoil. You will learn to point the right thumb straight ahead! Also, the pistol grip stock is a little longer, will keep your shooting glasses off the cocking piece during recoil.
I always shot the M1903A3's better than the 03's, at least out to 200 yards. Beyond that the fixed, and always off, quantum elevation of the A3 requires "Kentucky windage" to center the group.
Back in the 50's and 60's, civilian service rifle shooters generally shot with A3's. The military made it just about impossible to get a Garand, you could, if you traveled to Camp Perry, get a NM, but otherwise, all that were available were A3's. Of course that made it very difficult to earn your Distinguished, or get a President's patch. Shooting at 300 and 600 yards was a lot of work with a A3. Compared to the wonderful rear sight of a Garand the A3 sight is primitive. Windage on a A3 is irregular and then you have to hold off for elevation. The Club President did not get a Garand until the 80's, but, he was able to buy a Devine M1a in the 70's!. Till then, he was competing against National Guard, Reserve, AMU team members who had either matched out Garands or M14's while all he had was his A3.
Life can be unfair, and sometimes, it is planned that way.
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I have mix master 1903A3 I bought from AIM surplus a few years back.
It is built from NOS parts. Smith Corona receiver, 6-43 2 groove Remington barrel and assorted parts throughout. Finish is great but I don't know it any of it was re-parked or what. It is lighter zinc phosphate gray finish rather than the black manganese phosphate.
I had to have one so I plunked the cash down to the tune of $795. I've since spent another $190 on a new "C" stock from Numrich.
Is that a lot of money for what it is? Yep. Does it have a glorious history? Nope. Do I care? Certainly not. I wanted a shooter and that's what I got. Same with my M1. It has a new stock and match barrel and I shoot the heck out of it. Superbly accurate too.
I enjoy shooting 03A3 and it is pretty accurate even with the de-linked Korean Surplus I feed it. ~5.5" at 200yds with my bad astigmatism is good for me. That thin blade completely obscures the target at 200. It is a simulated 600yd target.
So, just an option and an honest report of what I have and what I have in it. Still worth every penny to me.
Some pics are attached.
ETA: Here's a link, you can set up a notification if they come back in stock. I've seen them several times over the years. Looks like they now come with C stocks too. Dang it.
http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.a...Springfield+1903+A3+30.06cal+Rifle&groupid=12
It is built from NOS parts. Smith Corona receiver, 6-43 2 groove Remington barrel and assorted parts throughout. Finish is great but I don't know it any of it was re-parked or what. It is lighter zinc phosphate gray finish rather than the black manganese phosphate.
I had to have one so I plunked the cash down to the tune of $795. I've since spent another $190 on a new "C" stock from Numrich.
Is that a lot of money for what it is? Yep. Does it have a glorious history? Nope. Do I care? Certainly not. I wanted a shooter and that's what I got. Same with my M1. It has a new stock and match barrel and I shoot the heck out of it. Superbly accurate too.
I enjoy shooting 03A3 and it is pretty accurate even with the de-linked Korean Surplus I feed it. ~5.5" at 200yds with my bad astigmatism is good for me. That thin blade completely obscures the target at 200. It is a simulated 600yd target.
So, just an option and an honest report of what I have and what I have in it. Still worth every penny to me.
Some pics are attached.
ETA: Here's a link, you can set up a notification if they come back in stock. I've seen them several times over the years. Looks like they now come with C stocks too. Dang it.
http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.a...Springfield+1903+A3+30.06cal+Rifle&groupid=12
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Swampman
Old Fart
I've seen a few '03's in my area recently for $275 - $400. The only problem is that they've been "sporterized" so heavily by various Bubbas over the years that they're pretty well beyond any hope of restoration to original condition without spending more than you'd pay for good, unaltered '03.
Since I'm unable to afford the pristine, unaltered '03 that I'd LIKE to own; I've purchased a couple "Bubba'd" versions. They're both good, accurate shooters and who knows, in a few years they may even be (financially) worth restoring.
Since I'm unable to afford the pristine, unaltered '03 that I'd LIKE to own; I've purchased a couple "Bubba'd" versions. They're both good, accurate shooters and who knows, in a few years they may even be (financially) worth restoring.
FearNoWind
Member
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- Apr 28, 2014
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Two years ago I found an '03 on the consignment shelf at a local gun store/shooting range. Head space gauges confirmed the chamber was servicable and the bore looked pretty good - but I didn't have a bore scope.
I considered the price ($600) to be pretty darn good.
I was fortunate to find one that is all original,.. 4 groove, circa 1942, stock Type 6. It took a couple of hours to clean the copper and carbon fouling out of the barrel and I did find some pitting of both lands and grooves (to be expected) but I was pleasantly surprised when it hold 1.5 MOA accuracy at 100 yards with factory ammo.
The ladder sights are a kick and I'm working my way out to 500 yards as I get more familiar with it.
I believe it's important to be patient and have some tools (head space gauges, bore scope, etc.) with you when you find one you want to consider. Read all you can about what went into each model as the rifle evolved; knowing the serial number ranges helps a lot:
http://www.bowersweapons.com/US MODEL 1903 RIFLE SERIAL NUMBER RANGES.htm
I had hopes of finding a '03-A3 but good ones are difficult to find (there's a lot of junk out there) and the '03 that I have is plenty good enough for the vintage military rifle competitions that I'm interested in.
May I suggest that, if you come across a pristine pearl that isn't exactly the model you'd like, go ahead and give it a home. You can continue to look for the model you'd prefer to have (e.g. '03-A3 vs '03) and you can always find a buyer for the orphan you first adopted or, hopefully, be the proud owner of two.
P.S. The pistol grip stocks are cool; but they don't shoot any better than the straight stock model.
http://www.trfindley.com/pgm1903stkid.html
Caveat: Remember, nothing makes a barrel shine nice and pretty like a thick coating of carbon fouling. Don't let a shiney barrel lead you astray - scope it if you can.
I considered the price ($600) to be pretty darn good.
I was fortunate to find one that is all original,.. 4 groove, circa 1942, stock Type 6. It took a couple of hours to clean the copper and carbon fouling out of the barrel and I did find some pitting of both lands and grooves (to be expected) but I was pleasantly surprised when it hold 1.5 MOA accuracy at 100 yards with factory ammo.
The ladder sights are a kick and I'm working my way out to 500 yards as I get more familiar with it.
I believe it's important to be patient and have some tools (head space gauges, bore scope, etc.) with you when you find one you want to consider. Read all you can about what went into each model as the rifle evolved; knowing the serial number ranges helps a lot:
http://www.bowersweapons.com/US MODEL 1903 RIFLE SERIAL NUMBER RANGES.htm
I had hopes of finding a '03-A3 but good ones are difficult to find (there's a lot of junk out there) and the '03 that I have is plenty good enough for the vintage military rifle competitions that I'm interested in.
May I suggest that, if you come across a pristine pearl that isn't exactly the model you'd like, go ahead and give it a home. You can continue to look for the model you'd prefer to have (e.g. '03-A3 vs '03) and you can always find a buyer for the orphan you first adopted or, hopefully, be the proud owner of two.
P.S. The pistol grip stocks are cool; but they don't shoot any better than the straight stock model.
http://www.trfindley.com/pgm1903stkid.html
Caveat: Remember, nothing makes a barrel shine nice and pretty like a thick coating of carbon fouling. Don't let a shiney barrel lead you astray - scope it if you can.
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I have an 03A3 that I restored from a sporterized rifle. I wanted a more traditional look and since the rifle is a sub moa shooter I figured it was worth it. The barrel was cut back when it was sporterized but as long as it shoots as well as it does I'm not changing it. Now it has the look I wanted.
This is how it started:
This is how it looks now:
This is how it started:
This is how it looks now:
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