OWB holster for my Springfield

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interesting looking holster...the link from your site didn't work.

I'm a bit concerned that the mouth isn't reinforced. Does the mouth stay open when the gun is drawn and you put pressure (roll-over) on the holster body?
 
In the new photo which looks like a professional setup/production still. The mouth of the holster looks like a very well stitched to stay open. I do not use all leather holsters since there is a fine line that is easy to cross about this type of leather with this stitching stays open while this one collapses like a 3 week old party balloon. That is the main reason I like combination holsters: leather for comfort, kydex for stability.
 
I bought one for my XDm. What are you doing for break in Arizona? Mine is so tight it pushes the slide out of battery when holstering.
 
herrwalther wrote,
I do not use all leather holsters since there is a fine line that is easy to cross about this type of leather with this stitching stays open while this one collapses like a 3 week old party balloon.

herrwalther wrote,
I used Kiwi mink oil on my holster using a badger brush thinking it was plain mink oil. The silicone hardened the badger bristles and took a few days soaking to remove. So be sure to use a cotton or lint free cloth if you want to use Kiwi mink oil.
I suspect if you would not use mink oil on your holster you would have fewer problems with your leather holsters collapsing.

KTXdm9 wrote,
What are you doing for break in Arizona? Mine is so tight it pushes the slide out of battery when holstering.
The typical recommendation is to wrap your pistol in a plastic bag (or waxed paper) and insert your pistol in the holster. Let it sit several hours, or over night. Lots of practice draws (unloaded pistol of course) will also loosen up your holster. Avoid putting leather "softeners" on your holster.

You can check the "Questions" section at the Milt Sparks site for some holster care information.

http://www.miltsparks.com
 
JTQ said:
I suspect if you would not use mink oil on your holster you would have fewer problems with your leather holsters collapsing.

You would be right if I used an all leather holster. But I don't. I use a combination holster from white hat for all my carry weapons which uses a leather backing for comfort but a piece of kydex for firearm shape.
 
"I'm a bit concerned that the mouth isn't reinforced. Does the mouth stay open when the gun is drawn and you put pressure (roll-over) on the holster body?"
I ordered a PRO TL IWB for my Kahr P380 specifically without a reinforced mouth to keep thickness to a minimum.
I've carried a lot, and while I know it can happen(drawing on someone), to me, re holstering will be the last of my problems. Having said that, I've not noticed it to be a problem to do so.
The thinner profile is worth it to me.
 
Thought it might be time to revisit this thread and provide an update.

In the new photo which looks like a professional setup/production still.

I'll take that as a compliment. :) Amazing what an inexpensive digital camera with a macro setting can capture. The background material was "permanently borrowed" from my wife's sewing room. A brick of .22LR is beneath it providing something for the holster to lean against.

Break in.....I used a zip-lock freezer bag, wrapped several layers thick around the XDs45 and stuffed into the holster. Took about two weeks, on again, off again, before I got it to where I liked it.

No, the mouth of the holster is not folding shut. It is quite rigid, in fact. It performs exactly as it should. Holstering the XDs45 is a non-issue.

I recently started drills drawing the XDs45 during my range practice. So far, not too bad....the holster is retaining the XDs45 a bit more than I like....but I'm not taking any specific action at this time to change that. Will wait and see how it works out.
 
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