Plunger tube, accuraglass, and grip panel

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saltydog452

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Among other things, my memory could stand some improvement.

I have read, I think here on this forum, where someone posted a procedure whereby the left grip panel was modified a bit by using acuraglass.

The 'glass', should the plunger tube get wiggily, would keep the plunger tube more or less in place and the pistol could remain in service a bit longer.

Does anyone have any recollection of this procedure?...or have used it?

Thank you,

salty
 
I can't see the need, but I suppose it could be done.

I have seen after-market grips with a projection that covers the tube.

On the otherhand, properly staked in place, plunger tubes don't come off.

rc
 
I can't remember if I was the one that recommended it, but I have done it.

Of course a good staking job should hold, but these days all too often you don't get one. Newer tubes are sometimes investment castings or MIM, and the posts are not hollow on the end, nor are the holes in the frame countersunk on the inside. Some makers no longer stake, but simply use an adhesive. Jeff Cooper went so far as to advocate the tubes be silver soldered to the frame!

Some stock makers leave the little lip on the left-hand grip off, not understanding that Browning put it there for a purpose, because if the tube does come loose the safety plunger can lock the manual safety in the "on" position.

My system is by no means unique, but it works:

1. Use a square file to remove the radius of the groove.

2. Be sure to apply plenty of release agent to the tube, and frame around it. Otherwise bedding compound that is squeezed out may glue the grip to the frame.

3. Mix up some beddding compound (I prefer Brownells "Accuraglass Gell") and mix it according to instructions.

4. Lay a bead of glass compound in the groove, and then carefully put the grip in place and tighten the two screws. Some compound should be squeezed out. Wipe off all of the excess that you can, and use care to keep it out of the grip's checkering. It is a good idea to cover the exterior with masking tape.

5. Keep a little of the mixed bedding compound on a piece of scrap cardboard. As soon as it becomes firm, remove the grip from the frame and let the compound continue to cure overnight. When it has completely hardened you can remove any excess with a sharp knife and/or sandpaper.

Some will see this as overkill. I see it as a simple, inexpensive kind of extra life insurance.
 
Thanks guys,

The pistol that I am giving an oblique reference to is a Baer Commander size Commanche whose plunger tube has gotten kinda wiggly in short order.

Preventive measures are, generally, more cost efficient than R/R.

Again, Fuff and rc, thanks.

salty
 
If it was my gun, I would remove the plunger tube, countersink the inside of the frame holes and restake a new bar stock plunger tube in place bedded in JB Weld. (this is in fact what I have done several times on my Les Baers). My general rule for gun parts is - "if they can't move they won't come loose".

If you are at all handy the countersink and staking tools are available from Brownells and cost less than the shipping to get the gun to a smith.

On the other hand, unless the gun is pretty old I think you should talk to Les Baer about it. It should not happen on a quality 1911.

Added: Mine did not come loose but it is a known weak spot on a 1911. I believe in preventative maintenance on critical parts.
 
Mine did not come loose but it is a known weak spot on a 1911.
Click to expand...

It didn't used to be. Browning designed it the way he did so that if it was damaged the tube could be replaced without having to replace the whole frame. Problems have now come up as manufacturers try to find various ways to cut costs, and don't understand the consequences if a loose tube causes the safety lock to be blocked in the "on" position.

Browning added the little lip on the left-side grip as extra insurance, both to block the tube from hard blows, and to keep it tight to the frame. While a good idea, it doesn't work well unless the groove is absolutely tight between the grip and tube - hence the idea of glass bedding it.

This is not met to be an alternative to a properly designed and staked tube, but as an additional precaution. Again, if you understand the consequences the additional precaution makes good sense.
 
Got it. Thanks all.

As an aside, the 'talking with Les' option assumes that he, or any other vendor, listens and is motivated to take corrective measures.

Supposedly, its fixed now. At least it doesn't wiggle around. (Hint: Les didn't do it.)

I'd like to keep it that way.

Commander size pistols are subject to a bit more slamming to and fro. A supportive left grip panel can't hurt and just might help, so why not?

salty
 
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