Price check: NIB M66-2

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357wheelgunner

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I found a new in the box model 66-2 4" for $450 out the door. I think this is worth it because:

1.. No MIM parts
2. A new MIM model 66 would cost me around $550
3. I want one really badly, and the older smiths seem to be better built

They also have a NIB Model 686 for $480, but I want the K-Frame. What do you think, for $450 it sounds good to me
 
That is a fine gun at a premium price. If you want it, get it. I paid $395 for the last Model 66 I bought, but it had a 3" barrel which is somewhat more difficult to come by.

I hear a lot of folks recommend that people pass on certain guns because they seem to be $50 more expensive than what THEY would pay for one. If you get $50 pleasure out of owning and shooting the piece, then you won't even remember what you paid for it in 20 years, and that guy who berates you for paying too much will be looking for a bargain while toting an empty holster.

Clemson
 
Ditto Clemson.

If it's really NIB and has features your prefer over the newer version and cost $100 less whats not to like???

I once walked on deal that was just $25 or so over the price I thought was fair. Couple of weeks later I realized I had spent that much in gas money looking for the same gun at "the price" I had set in my head :banghead:
 
I usually don't have the willpower to hold off until I find a great deal. I've been known to buy overpriced guns listed on gunsamerica.com just because they were in good condition and were available NOW.
 
I agree too... if you find a gun you really like and you have to pay top dollar for it... no big deal. You'll probably blow $50 on ammo during the first range session anyway and not think twice of that. A night at the movies for three with popcorn and pop is going to run you $40 or $50 and two hours later it's all poof!

When you find a gun you want and it's something you can't readily get, I say pay a premium price (if you HAVE to) and enjoy getting the gun.

Sometimes you can get a great deal and that's wonderful. Other times you pay a premium price, but you get a gun you love... don't worry that you might have paid $25, $50, $75 too much... you'll soon forget that, but you won't forget how nice it is to have that gun!

For me, this philosophy applies strictly to guns which are no longer being made, such as S&W's without internal locks or other models which are not commonly found. For brand new, current production guns that you can buy from numerous sources, then I definitely shop for price.
 
This could apply to the current 66's, as they are no longer available due to the 619/620 replacements. My local pusher has a pair of new current stock 66's; a 4" for $449 and a 2.5" for $439. He said that the pipeline is practically barren of them now. I have a 3" 65 and a 6" 66, with my new 5" h-l 686+ and 2" 10, I just don't have a 4" .38/.357... good suggestions thus far re how soon the price is forgotten on a good revolver purchase...

Two hours 'til they open...

Stainz
 
Stainz.. if it's pre-lock I'd say go for the 2.5"... there is something about the 2.5" 19 and 66 which is just the best. When it comes to 4"er's, I personally like the L's better... if you're going to have a barrel that long, you might as well benefit from the beefy forcing cone, extra strength, and better recoil absorption. But that's just my personal taste... yours may well differ. If the 66's have locks built in, I would rather seek out cherry condition pre-lock 66's, as I believe they will be much more valued and appreciate a lot better than the lock versions. Plus you won't have to entertain even a moment's worth of questioning about the lock affecting functioning.... nice peace of mind.
 
To the original poster, something to keep in mind: the beloved K-frame is being discontinued.

If you buy that NIB Model 66, then twenty years from now, one of two things will be true: either (1) it will still be in good shape. Since by then any K-frame will have a collector's premium attached, you will be able to recoup what you paid. Or (2) you'll have happily shot the dickens out of the gun for the past 20 years, and it won't be in good shape. In which case you'll have more than gotten your money's worth anyway, as other posters have noted.
 
Thanks for the advice guys, I am gonna get it. Well there goes my Federal Pell Grant for this sememster, thank you, Uncle Sam!


For those of you wondering, they still have a NIB S&W model 686 4", an older model with non-MIM parts, no lock, and wood grips. They had it marked $449. The store is Fletcher's in Waukesha Wisconsin. Phone #(262)549-4488
 
Thanks for the kind comments, DHart... always very useful suggestions... nearly as nice as your pix! As I stated, the 66's at the pusher's are current stock, complete with MIM parts and a hammer-lock-zit. These are non-issues for me. All of my S&W's, except for an '83 24-3 6.5" and '88 65-3 3", are 2001 or newer. I have had four with the locks, having sold my previous 625-8 4" last spring. I have never taken one of the keys from the poly bag, much less ever tried or experienced any problems with the locks. The MIM parts are more uniform from piece to piece, thus requiring less fitting. They have proven to be at least as durable, but this is an old battle.

I certainly would never fault someone for choosing an older version. In my limited experience, my 24-3 was as near NIB as a twenty year old revolver could be, possessing not even a hint of a cylinder turn line when I bought it. Sadly, it had more QC faults than all of my ten new purchased S&W's have had totalled! If it is an indicator, they certainly don't make them like they once did - and thank goodness!

Back to the K vs L frame.... I have repeated the results of my measuring examples of both frames. The height of the opening is greater, permitting a larger cylinder for my five-shot 296 & 696 .44 Specials and the seven-shot 686+. The topstraps look similar, as are the gripframes, of course. The front strap is some twenty thousandths thicker at the extreme allowing an additional fifteen thousandths extreme diameter for the forcing cone. S&W still rates the K-frames as .357 Magnum capable - and the erosion problem only exists with extremely light and high speed rounds, not normal rounds. The 'little' K-frames, of course, have the same grips - the main difference is weight and it's distribution. The L's are full lugs... except for the 5" h-l 686+ ... where the K's are partially lugged and thus, have less weight 'out front'... the L's stay 'down' under recoil better as a result of their greater forward mass.

I don't know whether I'll make the trek to the pusher today or not... too many sick folks have sneezed at me lately, I seem to be getting a fresh cold. I do think I'll get one of those 66's... my current stable includes a 3" 65 and my hammer-lock-zitted 6" 66-6, and that 5" h-l 686+ (...also sporting a hammer lock!). My 4"-ers are N-frames... and big bores. Choices...

Stainz
 
Its funny my dealer gets all these old S&W revolvers, for trade ins on Glocks and 1911s, he can't move them and sends them up to the New England area. You guys act like they are really rare. Anyways I agree I would never walk away on something I really wanted for $50. Life is too short to worry about 1/4 a day's pay.
 
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