Problem with S&W 629

[Balrog]

I have a problem with my S&W 629. I am shooting Hornady 240g XTP and Winchester 210g JSP factory ammo through it. Occassionally, the cylinder will get stuck when I am shooting, and I have to jiggle it to get it to turn.

I have tightened up the ejector rod, but that did not seem to help.

What could be the problem?

Could ammo be the problem? I do not seem to have the problem when I cycle the action with the gun unloaded. It is factory ammo though, so I would think the crimp would be tight enough to keep bullets from jumping.

 

[Oro]

Is it a 629-1 or is it a later model (what is stamped on the yoke cut?), and what is the history of the guns (round count, type, etc.)?

There was an engineering change at 629-2 (c. 1988 or so) to address this problem with extended shooting of full-power magnums.

 

[Balrog]

It is a 629-2. It looks like a Mountain Gun, with the thin barrel, but the barrel is not stamped Mountain Gun. The box, which matches the gun's serial number, is stamped Mountain Gun. The product number is 10652, and according to The Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson, it was made in 1989.

Oro, what exactly was the problem and what was the engineering change?

 

[Confederate]

As you continue firing the 629, the heat can cause the cylinder to expand. If there's not enough of a cylinder gap, the cylinder can bind on the forcing cone. As it cools, it retuns to normal and functions as it should. Use a feeler gague to measure the cylinder gap and see what it is. It should be .004-.009 (tolerances).

 

[Oro]

Apparently, they started a few months after your gun was made - there was an interim model stamped "629-2E", the "e" standing for "ednurance" with some beefed up internal parts to prevent the cylinder unlocking. They added one or two other minor changes and then called it the "629-3".

In the best case scenario, what you could have is just a weak cylinder stop spring. I have seen them bind or weaken on magnums and cause this problem. A new one is about $1.50 from Numrich's, and I also think Wolff sells one for $2 or so and is supposed to be extra strength.

Do you know the tricks to opening a S&W revolver safely (check Sylvan_Forge's post on rebuilding the model 10 in the stickies at the top of this sub-forum)?

As Confederate pointed out, does it have a really tight b/c gap and perhaps it's nothing internal and just powder fouling. Another problem is a hand problem. With the cylinder open, examine the ejector pawls for any damage, and the hand face, too. There are a couple of different problems that can cause this.

If you found that your ejector rod was loose, have you checked it again? usually loose ones will continue to work loose unless you torque them down properly and/or use some Loctite blue (NOT red!) on them.

 

[Balrog]

Thanks for the helpful information. The ejector rod is still nice and tight. I don't think that is my current problem. I am a little hesitant to open up my gun. I am pretty familiar with 1911, but not so much S&W revolvers, and I don't want to booger anything up.

Maybe I just need to send it back to S&W... to my knowledge there are no gunsmiths in my area that I would trust to work on it.

Oro, if the cylinder stop spring is weak, why would the gun bind only when being fired? If I empty the gun, and dry fire it, I am having no problems.

 

[Oro]

Oro, if the cylinder stop spring is weak, why would the gun bind only when being fired? If I empty the gun, and dry fire it, I am having no problems.

Actually, now that I re-read it carefully, that is unlikely the source. Usually that makes the cylinder spin, not lock. I misread it when I first responded.

Do you have some feeler gauges to check the b/c gap? you are correct to not open it up if you are not experienced for feel comfortable. Also, your gun may be *just* young enough to qualify for the lifetime warranty - I think it started about 1988 or so? A call to S&W would be wise. I think it's 1-800-331-0852.

 

[Confederate]

I have an unfired 629 (first issue). Is it worth sending back to S&W? I have friends with the same gun, but they've never had a problem. Seeing that the original gun was virtually the same as current model 29s, I never understood what the problem was. (I've also heard some strange cylinder-spinning stories about the 686, but no one I knew personally had ever experienced it, and I knew dozens of people who had them and trained people with them. It's not that I disbelieve these accounts -- I just haven't met anyone who's experienced them.

On the OP's gun, I understand that it works fine when cool, but it binds as it heats up. Thus it's logical to ascertain where it's binding. If it's the b/c gap, it might be easily fixed by opening the gap. Before that, though, we have to determine that the headspace isn't excessive and that there's no fore- and aft- play.

 

[Oro]

I have an unfired 629 (first issue). Is it worth sending back to S&W?

I don't think so. I also don't think they can do anything for you - they don't "retrofit" the endurance package - it was a "package" of small engineering changes, not an upgrade package you could install.

FYI - I have also seen the 686s "spin" - that is usually because of the cylinder spring. I think it's because they are a little weak in those guns. I don't think it's common - just once in a rare while.

I agree with you that checking the b/c gap is the first step for the op's gun.

 

[Balrog]

Update...

I dry fired my 629 while holding it up to a light source and carefully inspecting the b/c gap. I can see an equal amount of light along the length of the b/c gap on 5 of the chambers. On one chamber though, there is no light at the top of the b/c gap, but some does get through towards the bottom. It appears the outer edge of the cylinder is in contact with the barrel/forcing cone for this one chamber.

Could that be my problem? Maybe when the metal gets hot and expands, that chamber gets to tight against the barrel?

 

[Cayoot]

Mark that cylinder with a grease pencil (or what ever) then load all cylinders and start shooting. When the problem re-emerges, check to see if that cylinder is in a position that would have it contacting the forcing cone. If it is...contact S&W because the cylinder is not alligned properly (at least that would be my guess).

 

[Balrog]

I shot the gun after marking the suspected chamber. It does indeed appear that that cylinder is dragging across the forcing cone at that location.

 

[Cayoot]

I shot the gun after marking the suspected chamber. It does indeed appear that that cylinder is dragging across the forcing cone at that location.

Since only part of the cylinder is draging, I'm guessing that your crane/yolk is not straight and true. Better contact S&W about it.

I had a problem with a constricted barrel on a Mod 29 Mountain Gun. I did some testing to verify what I thought was the problem, then I called S&W. I spoke to their customer service and explained my testing. He agreed that I probably had a constricted barrel. He asked me to write it up in a note and include it with the gun. He then emailed me a postage paid UPS label. I sent it in to them.

Less than 2 weeks later I received the gun back with a brand new barrel. It shot great after that.

I'm sold on S&W customer service, but I believe that we have to be reasonable and do everything we can to help them understand what our complaint is.

Good luck, I'm sure that if you are complete in your communicating with them, S&W will make everything right with your gun.

 

[Balrog]

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[Confederate]

Yep, you're going to want to call S&W about it. As you reduce the b/c gap on some chambers, you increase the headspace (gap between case heads and backstrap). That, in turn, can produce misfires.

Get S&W to pay shipping if you can.

 

[Robby from Long Island]

You fellows might have solved my problem. I bought my 629-3 in 1992 and have only fired about 200 rounds of factory ammo (240 gr JHP) through it. About a year ago while firing another box, found after only one or two shots that the cylinder was locking up. Tried again a couple of weeks later and same problem popped up.

Finally contacted S&W who sent me a pre-addressed shipping label and advised I give full account of the problem in an attached note.

Have to admit, still haven't sent it back as I'm afraid to hear how it got lost in transit. I know, insurance.

Just have to get around to doing it as I really miss shooting it. After looking at the cylinder face and forcing cone, have to admit they're almost touching when cold. That's probably the problem.

 

[Black_Talon]

Make sure that you clean under the ejector star. Debris can easily build up there, causing cylinder binding. Scrubbing with a toothbrush and using air to blow out the debris will usually do the trick.

 

[Balrog]

OK, I just got the gun back from S&W today... not a bad turn around at all, a grand total of 9 days, including shipping to and from S&W!!

I have not yet fired it. It came back with an invoice stating that the yoke had been repaired. There was no charge.

When I hold the gun up to a light source, the three chambers that were dragging on the forcing cone are now not dragging, and I can see an equal amount of light shining through with all chambers. So the drag issues seems fixed.

My question is, what exactly was wrong with the yoke that would have caused this? Could it have just been slightly bent? At one point, I recall the screw that holds the yoke and crane in place backed itself out from being fired, and the cylinder yoke and crane fell out of the gun onto a wood floor while the gun was being cleaned. Could that have bent it?

 

[Oro]

My question is, what exactly was wrong with the yoke that would have caused this? Could it have just been slightly bent?

Bent.

the cylinder yoke and crane fell out of the gun onto a wood floor while the gun was being cleaned. Could that have bent it?

That would most likely have been it! Probably the rod/ejector assembly was bent, not the entire crane.


Excellent that S&W sorted you out quickly and cost-free.

 

[Balrog]

Yes I am totally convinced S&W has the best service in the industry!

 

[Confederate]

Glad to hear the "yoke" wasn't on you! My Smiths have nearly always been exceptional. Rugers have even been better.

The 629 is an outstanding gun. It may not be as physically strong as the Redhawk, but the action is much better. Never cared much for the longer barrels. Six inches is great.

 

[Vikingsoftpaw]

Double check your cylinder for left over oil from cleaning. You may be experiencing casehead setback. Is any of the ammo your using nickle cased? Nickle cases are slipperier and don't grab the cylinder walls as easily. If recoil forces a case back against the recoil shield, the revolver will jam.