Problems reloading .45acp

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Chains12

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Hi! I'm new to the forum and new to reloading as of last year. I've successfully loaded plenty of 223 and 458 Socom but this is my first venture into smaller pistol cartridge reloading. First off, I did search before posting and couldn't find this problem so I'm sorry it's its another noob thread on an old topic. I set up my Dillon RL550B and got all my dies to deliver a CCI No. 300 LP primer, 5.4gr of 231, and a 230gr TMJ with the OAL of 1.266. I loaded and checked all of these parameters for the first 10rds I ran through the press with virtually no variances. I then loaded 20 more and decided that's plenty for my first set and began test firing my new cartiges. Using my G30s, and of the 30 cartridges loaded, 10 failed to fire. I checked all spent shells and none of the primers were seated incorrectly. Everything looked great. Of the 10 FTF cartridges, all had clean striker dents. I had no issues clambering, no double feed, no stovepipes, and no failures to eject on the rounds that did fire. I did however rechamber and fire 3 of the FTF cartridges and all fired just like nothing was wrong? So as you can tell I'm pretty confused. Is it something in the preparation, something with my press, or is it just my gun? Thanks for the replies in advance, any advice will be greatly appreciated.
 
Your primers are not bring seated completely. Check the primers before you shoot the rounds.

The easiest way is the feel test. Put your ammo bullet down in reloading tray or ammo box. Run your finger tip over the primers and you will quickly feel which ones are too high.

The first firing pin strike is using it's energy to fully seat the primer , then the second strike is causing the primer to fire.
 
Most likely cause is primers not seated deeply enough, especially if they fire when you try the second time. The primers should be slightly below flush with the cartridge brass.
 
45 acp

How was the taper crimp. Head space is on the case mouth. To much crimp may be a problem in a Glock?? Depends on the extractor type & if you have an inertia firing pin like a 1911.
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5.4gr of 231
On the hot side? I dont have a glock or use 231. Welcome to The High Road.
 
Excessive crimp can be a problem in any .45 ACP chamber.

Firing pin protrusion is not the problem, firing pin energy is.

If the primer is not at the bottom of the pocket the firing pin will use energy seating it and it may not fire.

The primer pellet was NOT firmly between the anvil and the cup, so no bang.
 
As noted above, more than likely the primers weren't seated completely. Just make sure the primers are "bottomed out" in the pocket and disregard "below flush measurements". 90% of priming problems for new reloaders is primers not seated to the bottom of the pocket. Ten out of thirty is also an indication of operator error and I haven't had 10 bad primers at the same time in 30 years of reloading...
 
Welcome to THR Chains12.

You need to seat primers until you can feel them bottom out in the primer pocket, not just flush with the case head. I've been reloading for several decades and yet to experience a FTF with my reloads, have with factory though. If they fire on the second attempt, then they are absolutely, and no doubt, not seated all the way home.

What happens when they are shallow seated, is the firing pin inertia will drive them to the bottom of the pocket, then the next strike will set them off. It will appear to be a good strike the first time, but it's short of being enough to fracture the compound.

DON'T TRY SEATING PRIMERS DEEPER ON LOADED CARTRIDGES

GS
 
The straight RCBS bench primer is still the king of primer feel.
You can feel them start in, feel them touch bottom, then feel the slight movement as the cup bottoms out and stresses the primer pellet.

Putting some molly paste on the cam of the hand primers is almost as good.
 
Thanks for the replys everyone. I suppose it's possible Im not consistent on the forward stroke when seating the primers. I've read a lot of different threads where that was a problem with new reloaders and being too gentle for fear of crushing the primer or even accidentally discharging one. I guess you've got to have humility when learning anything new. I bought the entire setup used and pretty much taught myself with manuals and YouTube haha. I suppose it'd be pretty helpful to find a class somewhere on reloading and I believe Pro Fire in Indianapolis holds some. I'll give another batch a try and report back here with what I find. Thanks again everyone.
 
I suppose it'd be pretty helpful to find a class somewhere on reloading....

Maybe, maybe not...

Friend, what you're experiencing is common to ALL novice reloaders. You're learning your machine, while you also learn 45acp. A class may indeed help you learn many things in a very short time, but a class can't give you time on the machine... which is the cure for the incomplete primer insertions.

If the rounds that did fire operated your gun like you expected, then load up some more using the same recipe. In my book you're doing fine, you simply need some more time on the machine.

Hints...
• I'm also wondering if your 550 is using the Dillon "strong mount" ?? If not, then the machine may sit so far forward as to be flexing your loading bench to the extent that you're not getting a solid "feel" for the work. Spending $45 on a Strong Mount will sit the machine 6" further back on the bench, and get you a much more 'solid' feel.

• Also try to position the machine over one of the bench legs. If you want the press in the middle of your bench, then simply add a 2x4 leg under the press position.

• You said you learned by watching YouTube videos, then you may simply be going too fast to get a full stroke. Watch the videos on UltimateReloader.Com because he operates his machines at the correct speed.

;)
 
Actually I'm not using a strong mount for my Dillon. The deal I got came with two benches, one for the presses and one for trimming and sizing tools. It's mounted on the corner of the table over a leg and it could be, or would be, a bit more stable mounted instead on the strong box. I'll look into it for sure. I'll look into the classes as well but you're absolutely right. There are some things that only experience can teach you and this is one of those things. I'll be sure to give the ultimate reloader link a look as well, thanks for your insight!
 
I have been using the RCBS primer die for about 3 decades. I like it better than the press arm system, cause I can adjust it to a specified seating depth, then I don't have to seat by feel, hasn't failed me yet.

GS
 
I have been reloading for just over 2 months now loading 9mm and 40S&W. No FTF so far. I use my Lee classic cast to seat the primers and I think seating the primers was the most difficult thing for me when I started, just because I did not want to crush the primers. What I did was after seating, I would put the brass primer down on the table and try to start spinning it applying pressure downwards. If it was all headstamp touching the table, then it would nor start spinning. If the primer wasn't seated properly, then it would wobble or start spinning. After I had a few of these I kept on applying more pressure until I had more confidence applying more pressure. The first batch was slow, but then subsequent batches are going much faster since I know how much pressure I can apply. The way I do it now is just apply pressure, turn brass 180 degrees and apply pressure again, then check it on the table. Another thing I found that made it easier for me was to use CCI#500 primers instead of WSP. I pick up the primers one by one and can feel the CCI primer is more difficult to grab between the fingers, probably more slippery.
 
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