Putting a suppressor on home defense carbine

[Dr_2_B]

What's involved in legally equipping one's home-defense carbine (or handgun even) with a suppressor? E.g. which gov't hoops, and price; and prices of the suppressors. Plus, how expensive to have the barrels threaded?

Thanks in advance

 

[taliv]

are you asking about the form 4 process for obtaining a suppressor? or once you have a suppressor, if there's anything else you need to do to use it for self defense?

if the latter, there's nothing i'm aware of.

suppressor prices are pretty widely available online. however, since you'll need a "class 3" dealer to do the transfer, it may be helpful to shop in-state.

usually, threading a barrel is $50 or so

 

[jrdolall]

$200 for the tax stamp. Suppressors are like guns in that you can get one from $200 up to $2,000. I have never paid to have a barrel threaded as the guns I have suppressed came threaded but I doubt it would be a huge expense.
The wait for the stamp can be six months. I think mine took four but that was a few years ago and may have changed either way.
The only thing I have suppressed are 22 LR so I don't really know what a low end suppressor in, say 9mm, might cost. I know I have seen them advertised for 223 at around $1,200.

 

[bikemutt]

My 'smith will thread most barrels to suppressor standard for $125.

Personally, I cherish my NFA weapons quite a bit, they take a long time to get approval for and there's the $200 stamp. When not in use they are in a separate locked safe, in a locked closet, in a locked house. That's not where I keep my HD tools, would take too much time to retrieve them.

 

[LocoGringo]

Nothing special to equip yourself with HD NFA items. Just the normal hoops to jump through to get them in the first place. Basically, buy the item, apply to ATF NFA branch to legally possess the item (pay the $200 tax stamp and send application and other materials necessary), wait for approval and then take it home. Put it on whatever you like as long as the exit hole is big enough to accomodate the projectile and the threads match. Nothing special.

As for threading a barrel, it's best to have the suppressor in hand so that a competant gunsmith can match the threads of the suppressor to the threads of the barrel. I pay $100 to a local gunsmith to do exactly that. Also, make sure you have enough "meat" at the end of your barrel to support a suppressor. Some barrel contours don't have enough metal (mostly lightweight barrels) to support threads.

I've got a 6.8 SPC 12.5" barreled SBR with 90 grain TNT handloads sporting a 6 inch suppressor waiting patiently in my safe for a home invasion. It'll be a world of hurt for whoever decides to invade my home if I'm able to retrieve it in time and feel threatened enough to fire.

 

[Swampman]

Put it on whatever you like as long as the exit hole is big enough to accomodate the projectile and the threads match.

There's a little more to it than projectile diameter and threads matching up.

Both .22 Long Rifle and .223 cans are usually threaded .5"x28, but if you shoot .223 through most .22 LR rated cans, you'll likely have a catastrophic failure.

 

[LocoGringo]

There's a little more to it than projectile diameter and threads matching up.

Both .22 Long Rifle and .223 cans are usually threaded .5"x28, but if you shoot .223 through most .22 LR rated cans, you'll likely have a catastrophic failure.

You're right.

I was thinking of someone having something like a 6.8 suppressor with the same thread pitch as most .30 caliber cans and putting that 6.8 on a .30 caliber rifle because "it fits".

 

[Swampman]

@ LocoGringo
That's one thing I really like about the YHM cans with the QD feature, you can put a .30 cal can on the .223 sized mounts, but the .223 cans won't fit on the .308 mounts.
I think it's the same way with their .338 cans.

They're uglier than the south end of a northbound baboon, but they are well thought out, bull strong and very secure.