Pyrodex ignition

[LaserSpot]

I fired my first muzzleloader today; it’s a Thompson-Center .50 cal side hammer that I borrowed to go deer hunting in a couple weeks. I’m shooting 90 grains of pyrodex, fired by #11 CCI caps; bullets are 300g JHP in sabots.

Accuracy was very good, but I had a couple misfires and one delayed firing. The first misfire I can attribute to the rifle being left loaded; after popping a couple caps in vain, I had to remove the nipple and sprinkle a little fresh powder under it.

I don’t know what caused the other misfire and the delayed ignition. Does anyone have any special tips to make sure it goes bang instead of pop? I hope to be hunting in snow and well below freezing. Would pellets be more reliable than loose powder?

Also, any general tips or links a newbie should read? I haven’t fired the ramrod downrange yet

 

[azyogi]

The #11 MAGNUM Percussion Caps are "hotter" and tend to give more reliable ignition. Check to make sure the channel from the primer to the charge is clean. I remove the nipple and place breach in a pan of very hot water. while holding muzzle end in gloved hand run a tight patch up and down in bore. This should move the hot water through the channel and clean it out well. Dry well, and oil after using water on gun parts, the hot water should aid this by speeding evaporation. Use an anti-sieze compound on the nipple threads, to aid in easy removal. There are many kinds, the type I use is meant for plumbers, but a search here will give a good list of all things to keep nipples loose. I put mine on with a q-tip doesn't take much.

 

[LaserSpot]

Thanks, I’ll look for magnum caps. How do I check that the channel is clean? Do I have to remove the nipple after each shot?

I did some googling and read that musket caps will also give better ignition (with a different nipple), and that black powder works better than Pyrodex with #11 caps. The pellets are out as they don’t work with side hammer guns.

 

[azyogi]

After getting it clean it should stay so for at least 20 shots, I prefer black powder in my T/C haven't tried the new 777 stuff but have used the rifle and pistol loose pyrodex powders, and the "pills" for pistol. These don't work well in side lock type rifles as the flame has too many corners to turn. I have tried a small charge of FFFFg powder under those rifle pellets, without going into drop tubes and fine grains sticking to the barrell lets just say it's more work than it's worth. Another trick is a small interdental brush, kind of like a pipe cleaner but thinner, I get mine in a 10 pack at the .99 cent only store. There was a thread on here in the black powder section about Bore Butter, a type of lube for bp guns I like the stuff and cure my guns with it, kind of like curing a cast iron frying pan.

 

[LaserSpot]

Thanks, I’ll look for the interdental brushes and I might switch to black powder if I can find it anywhere. I’m using plastic sabots, so Bore Butter probably wouldn’t do much. I sprayed/swabbed in some CLP after cleaning and drying it.

 

[LaserSpot]

May have found the problem; I discovered that a straightened paperclip works better to clean the nipple than a safety pin. The tapered safety pin was just pushing crud into the wall of the hole, wasn’t pushing it out. I thought it was too thick to push all the way through (it wasn’t). The flash hole looks bigger now when I hold it up to a light.

I also bought some magnum percussion caps; the guy at the gun shop recommended popping a couple caps before loading to make sure the channel is clear and dry.

 

[azyogi]

Good idea, I allways do this. I wondered why I was the only one pitching in then I noticed this thread probably should be over in Black Powder section.

 

[dogrunner]

The 'secret' to making that gun shoot EVERY time is in one word: CLEAN.

I don't know just how many friends I have that've griped about missing a good shot simply because they neglected to clean that rifle properly. All that's necessary is to do a thorough bore cleaning, wipe it with a clean patch, PULL the nipple and swab the drum with either alcohol or lighter fluid...make sure it's dry and load up. While I'm aware that some jurisdictions prohibit it, I also cap mine the night prior to a hunt and unless I drop it in a swamp it'll stay that way till I either shoot it or the season's done.

I have NEVER had a misfire in thirty years of using a caplock.

One other suggestion I'd add (tho I don't know that it REALLY makes that much difference) is to install a musket nipple............I've done that on a Kodiak double I own and it does seem to generate a more intense ignition pulse......so it seems by snapping a few at a piece of paper from an empty bore........then too, those cap wings do make it easier to 'de-horn' the gun if you've gotta make it safe.

 

[LaserSpot]

Thanks, I was thinking of converting to musket caps, but I probably won't need to if the improved cleaning technique and hotter caps do the trick.

I'll look for some kind of nipple cover so that snow doesn't get in when I uncap it.

 

[LaserSpot]

Didn't work; I had a misfire on the first shot. I must be doing something wrong, but don't know what. My loading technique now is to remove and clean the nipple after every shot, then sprinkle one third of a pinch of pyrodex in the hole before replacing it. This will have to do for now.

 

[scythefwd]

How old is the pyrodex? How humid is it where you are? Is the Pyrodex container sealing very well?

Pyrodex likes to absorb water and become problematic.

 

[LaserSpot]

I don't know how old it is, I'll have to ask. We do get a lot of humidity, so that's a possibility. The powder in the possibles bag is in a small tupperware container that seems to seal ok. I assume it came from a sealed container.

 

[LaserSpot]

Yeah, I think that was the issue; the powder was many years old, kept in a humid basement, and the lid was replaced with a pouring spout that doesn't seal that well.