Questions - NEED HELP

[rhtwist]

Hello,
I forget what the test is for but if you put the slide stop, hanging down in the firearm and link with just the barrel and the bushing in the slide, on my firearm the slide stop does not swing freely. If I push down on the barrel it gets much tighter. I have also noticed that the slide stop has most of the bluing gone where the link encompasses the slide stop shaft. This is with 150 rounds through it, on a basically new pistol, is this normal? Also on the slide shaft the bluing is gone where it rides in the frame hole. The slide stop is cutting a semi circular ring around the hole on the outside of the frame and scraping the bluing off the frame from the underside of the slide stop arm. Is this normal?
On the slide first lug (closest to the ejection port) there is an approx 1/16th
crack or machining gouge on the flat portion of the lug from the side closest to the port toward the muzzle. Is this a concern?
There appears to be no bluing gone on the sides of the slide or barrel lugs, although the flat show wear.
When the firearm was returned to the manufacturer, they replaced the bushing, barrel, "brought up to specs" and tightened the trigger slop that had the trigger able if pushed sideways to scrape the frame and pop the rear ends of the bow out of the grooves. The trigger does not flop around now but it does not reset easily or consistently.
What should I be concerned about and should the firearm be returned to the manufacturer as I believe that they should be responsible for all repair for the money spent on the pistol.
Also the contact area of the bushing and the recoil spring plug have the bluing worn completely off and the breechface has the bluing all worn off.
rhtwist

 

[1911Tuner]

Assemble the pistol without the recoil system...or just with the recoil spring plug missing.

Slidestop crosspin through the link with the arm hanging vertically.

Pull the slide fully rearward. Push the barrel straight back firmly. The slidestop should move freely. A tiny amount of tight is okay. If you can move the stop arm with a light flick of your fingernail...it's not ideal, but won't likely be a problem. Any tighter than that, and the barrel is being stopped by the link instead of the vertical impact surface. Bad JuJu.

 

[rhtwist]

Howdy and thanks for replying. Doing as you suggested, the slide stop moves freely. At the top rear of the underbarrel lugs, the bluing is worn of in the pattern of the frame area back top circular cutout between the rails at the rear.
Now another area of concern. A bullet sits flush with the barrel hood, but when assembled the hood is around 1/32 or more from the breach face, which it would seem to allow the bullet case to move out of the chamber during ignition. Prior to sending the firearm back the breachface was still blued after 250 rounds. Now the bluing is worn off with just 100 rounds. With the barrel removed and a loaded round dropped in the chamber you can see the bullet casing past the extractor groove almost around the bottom 180 degrees of the chamber with the
deepest area at the bottom above the bullet contour in the barrel rear. Any help /advice suggestions is greatly appreciated Johnny.
Glenn

 

[1911Tuner]

At the top rear of the underbarrel lugs, the bluing is worn of in the pattern of the frame area back top circular cutout between the rails at the rear.

Sounds like it's workin' like it should.

Now another area of concern. A bullet sits flush with the barrel hood, but when assembled the hood is around 1/32 or more from the breach face, which it would seem to allow the bullet case to move out of the chamber during ignition.

That may be a problem if it's indeed a 32nd inch. Get a set of small automotive feeler gauges and find the one that has just a little drag when you pull it out from between the hood and the breechface. Let the slide go to battery with the gauge between them. Guide the slide into battery. Don't let it slam. If the gauge turns out to be .020 inch thick or more...take it to a smith and get the headspace gauged.

 

[rhtwist]

With the pistol fully assembled I can only get a .010 out with moderate drag. With the slide/barrel upside down and bushing I get .010 with the barrel pushed back toward the breech. Pushing the barrel down and forward it will take a .016. This is inserting the guage from the underside.
Would this be a possible reason that the breechface has the bluing worn off with 150 (correct count) rounds through it? Thanx
Glenn

 

[rhtwist]

Dear Tuner,
Would the .016 gap when theoretically the slide and barrel are at full lock cause the case to move out of the chamber and strike the breechface harder than if it had a smaller gap. I also noted a indentation ring on the breechface which is the top 180 degrees of where the case strikes the breech. Since it is only on the top half would this possibly mean that the barrel is not perpendicular to the breech, otherwise I would expect to see a full circle indentation? I did not notice the ring or the complete bluing wear prior to the return from repair. It had 250 rounds thru it and it was completely reblued, but now with 150 rounds it shows those symptoms. Please advise
Glenn