Re-blueing question

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2dswamp

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Need some help...I've got a shotgun that had someone's SS# engraved in it. In an atempt to remove the engraving, someone used a Dremel tool and a stone bit. It did the job...but it also removed the blueing.
The shotgun isn't worth much, but it was in excellent condition other than the 1/4" x 1/2" area where the blue is gone. I tried using some liquid blue (Birchwood/Casey),but it did nothing to the exposed metal.

Any recommendations on how to touch up?
 
What kind of shotgun?

B/C cold blue should have at least colored the spot to some extent.

But some cheap single-barrels have a cast steel or pot-metal type receiver that won't take bluing at all.

If that's the case, you may have to resort to a Magic-Marker, or black paint.

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rcmodel
 
Try a magnet on the area to see if it is steel. If it is, make sure the area is degreased well and try again.

If it's a Mossberg, you might try some Aluma Black by Birchwood Casey.

Personally, if the area is not steel, I think that rcmodel's paint suggestion is a good one and will give a much more pleasing results. Dura coat, Gun Kote, , Aluma Hyde and Brownells bake on aerosol come to mind. I've had good results with Wheeler Cerama coat (the finish is textured some- here's an article on it: http://www.shootingtimes.com/gunsmithing/0706/index1.html).
Max100 has had good results with Dupli color cerama tye paint as well: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=324116
Regards,
Greg
 
Thanks for the responses

Thanks alot for the responses. I don't have the gun in front of me...I believe it's a "Ted Williams" Sears special.
I'll take your advice and check to see if it's steel or not. Once again...it's not worth much...but in excellent condition otherwise. It belongs to an older gentleman...just trying to help him out.
 
If its a Ted Williams, then more than likely its steel. The birchwood casey stuff is okay but requires heat to do much good. Your best bet before just getting the entire gun reblued, is to pick up some better cold blue from brownell's. Call their order line, explain your situation, and I bet they'll have a good recomendation...
 
I don't exactly agree completely.

I use Brownell's Oxpho-Blue in the shop, and it does a pretty good job, as far as cold-blue goes.

But I also keep a Birchwood-Casey Touch-Up Pen handy, and I have never had it completely fail to blue anything, (like 2dswamp ask about) except aluminum, stainless, and pot-metal.

In fact, it just about always does a pretty darn good job, as far as cold-blue goes!

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rcmodel
 
If it is a Ted Williams pump or auto, it may be on a Winchester 1200, 1300, or 1400 action... which is aluminum. If that is the case, Aluminum Black works pretty well; I blacked about a half inch square place on a scope that had to be filed to clear the gun barrel.
 
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