Rebuild a Hunting Rifle

[MtnCreek]

A little advice would be greatly appreciated. A friend is wanting to have a ~ '80's Rem 700 BDL, 7mm RM rebuilt as a semi custom hunting rifle.

Goals:
Improved accuracy.
Improved appearance.
Similar weight to factory.
Reduced recoil.

Couple things I need some help figuring out before talking to the smith:

Stock options. If it were mine, I'd probably go with a McMillan hunting stock. My friend is partial to wood and thinking about having the stock refinished. Assuming the factory stock is used, what would be required to free-float the barrel and what results could he expect from a wood stock in hunting conditions (anything from 70deg, 90% hum GA Fall to 10deg 20% hum KS Winter). For budgeting, approx. cost of contouring / reinforcing the stock?

Reduced recoil. Keeping the rifle weight down, either braking it or switching calibers are the only two ways of reducing recoil, correct? Thanks to our S GA state reps fearing suppressed poachers, a suppressor is not an option. :banghead: Thoughts on a muzzle brake for hunting rifles??? If caliber is switched, is there any common cartridge milder than a 7rm that has a mag bolt face?

Thanks!

 

[Jim Watson]

Improved accuracy.

*Pillar bedding the action, freefloating the barrel might help accuracy enough to retain the stock barrel. If not, a new barrel and blueprinting the action are indicated. Not cheap.

Improved appearance.

*Only he can say what appearance he wants. If he wants to retain the walnut stock, fine; the pillar bedding and a good finish will keep it. There used to be a shop that specialized in recontouring factory stocks for style and reduced bulk, but I do not have the name any more.

Similar weight to factory.

*Not hard to do, same stock, same barrel or same barrel profile will leave him the same place on weight.

Reduced recoil.

*A stock fitted to his physique will reduce FELT recoil.
There have been muzzle brakes that could be turned on for the range, off for hunting without the "loudener" effect but I don't know a present source.
Smaller caliber belted magnums include the .264 Win and .257 Weatherby.
Or, if he is a handloader, a lighter loaded 7mm. A starting load for 7mm R.M. is about like a top load for a 7mm Mauser which has killed everything that walks, crawls, or flies.

 

[MtnCreek]

It's won't be cheap. He's looking at around $2,100 to $2,400, depending on barrel options (that includes $600 for a stock).

Thanks for the cartridge options. The .264win would be the harder of the two to find ammo for, correct?

Thanks!

 

[LeonCarr]

I was getting ready to ask...how much money does he have?

First, I would:

Give it a good cleaning, using a good copper solvent to remove all traces of copper fouling from the barrel. This will improve accuracy in most cases, especially if detailed cleaning has never been done.

Pillar bedding and glass bedding the "stock" stock, along with free floating the barrel. The stock refinishing can be done at this time also, along with installing a good recoil pad to reduce felt recoil.

Adjusting the trigger pull to right around three pounds. If you do not know how to do this safely or do not understand how a trigger works, get a professional to do it.

Just finding a factory load or a handload it likes can shrink your groups by half, and there are reduced recoil factory loads (Remington makes one I believe). Please follow all safe reloading practices.

I would try these things first before pouring money into it replacing barrels or stocks.

Just my .02,
LeonCarr

 

[MtnCreek]

Beyond opening up the barrel channel, what else would be required (or desired) when free-floating? Is the factory wood forearm stiff enough to not contact the barrel under normal use?

He's set on the build. Two years ago, the groups opened up and started shooting bad flyers. I cleaned it and retorqued per Rem spec. Groups are around 1.5" with at least one flyer out of five, sometimes more. He suspected bad scope, so added new quality mounts / glass. Same results. He's a solid 1" @ 100 shooter w/ a capable rifle. I shot it and had the same results. At this point, even if he did 'fix it', he's lost confidence in the rifle, so off to be re-built.

 

[Certaindeaf]

You can buy a lot of rifle for $3000.. adding in selling his rifle.. just a guess.

 

[Sav .250]

Some of "today`s" rifles have just what your looking for. Price would be much cheaper than a .....re-do.

 

[MtnCreek]

When did the gun folks start taking a rational approach to their hobby?

The rifle has sat in a safe for two yrs and will never be sold (at least not by him). He wants to do something w/ it.

 

[natman]

A little advice would be greatly appreciated. A friend is wanting to have a ~ '80's Rem 700 BDL, 7mm RM rebuilt as a semi custom hunting rifle.

Goals:
Improved accuracy.
Improved appearance.
Similar weight to factory.
Reduced recoil......

Thoughts on a muzzle brake for hunting rifles??? If caliber is switched, is there any common cartridge milder than a 7rm that has a mag bolt face?

Improved accuracy: Pillar / glass bed action. Free float barrel. Swap in a Timney trigger.

Not too much you can do about recoil with the stock chambering and weight. I would emphatically NOT recommend a muzzle brake. Although it will reduce recoil, a 7mm Mag with a brake will deafen everyone within earshot, which would be almost everyone in the county. I'd put on a Limbsaver recoil pad and be done with it.

You neglected to mention what type of hunting he has in mind, but if it's deer, antelope and the like I might consider rebarreling to 257 Weatherby. The bolt face will fit, it should feed and it would reduce recoil. Ammo is expensive, but it is a very flat shooting round for lighter game.

 

[Certaindeaf]

Maybe the crown is bunged. How many rounds through this rifle?

 

[jmr40]

He could put it in a McMillan Hunters Edge and take 1/2-3/4 lb off the factory stock. These are floated and come standard with pillars. I'd also put a quality aftermarket barrel on it. Probably with a slightly heavier contour. This will get part of the weight back, but put it where it will help with accuracy.

With a decent recoil pad a 7 mag doesn't kick hard enough to need a muzzle break. Especially with a well designed stock. I'm betting he can come in 1/2 lb lighter than factory, with a heavier, more accurate barrel and less felt recoil.

I'd put a better trigger on it.

You're looking at about $1,000-$1,200 for the parts plus what a smith charges you to put it all together.

But truthfully, if it were mine, I'd sell it for $400, put $700-$800 with it and just buy a Kimber or Winchester EW. I'd have a better rifle, and about $1000 to buy ammo. Even if he wants to keep it, he'll be money ahead to leave it in the safe as is and buy one of the above.

 

[BluegrassDan]

I was getting ready to ask...how much money does he have?

First, I would:

Give it a good cleaning, using a good copper solvent to remove all traces of copper fouling from the barrel. This will improve accuracy in most cases, especially if detailed cleaning has never been done.

Pillar bedding and glass bedding the "stock" stock, along with free floating the barrel. The stock refinishing can be done at this time also, along with installing a good recoil pad to reduce felt recoil.

Adjusting the trigger pull to right around three pounds. If you do not know how to do this safely or do not understand how a trigger works, get a professional to do it.

Just finding a factory load or a handload it likes can shrink your groups by half, and there are reduced recoil factory loads (Remington makes one I believe). Please follow all safe reloading practices.

I would try these things first before pouring money into it replacing barrels or stocks.

Just my .02,
LeonCarr

This. +1


Change the stock, barrel, trigger, etc., and you no longer have a 1980s Remington 700 BDL. You'll have an "almost" new gun, but only "almost" because you kept a 30 year old action.

It sounds like your pal really wants a new gun. If it were me, I'd spend a hundred bucks spiffing up the BDL and making it shoot a bit better, then go drop a few grand into something cool that can drive tacks.