Reduced power S&W rebound spring advantages?

[Chuck Perry]

I bought a used 625 with a Miculek spring kit installed. While wonderfully light, it was less than reliable with my Winchester primered reloads. As this is to be a defensive gun, I wanted a standard weight replacement main spring. I bought the Brownell's Pro Spring kit, which came with a standard weight main spring and three reduced power rebound springs. What is the advantage of the reduced power rebound spring? Will it effect reliability? If I install one, what should I watch for to decide which weight works best for me? And finally, besides the Brownell's tool, is there an easy way to install these things? I got the standard weight spring back into this one, but it was a bear to get in there!

 

[IMtheNRA]

Hello, I am just to do the exact opposite and order the Miculek springs from Brownells. My revolver is used only for range fun, so I can handle a misfire as long as they don't get too frequent and annoying.

What spring did you say was a bear to get in? The main or rebound?

 

[Chuck Perry]

The rebound spring. You have to compress it inside the rebound bar, then jam the whole works down in front of a rentaining pin mounted to the frame. It's really hard to do, one of those jobs where you need to fit three hands into a space big enough for one finger. Brownell's makes a tool for the job, but I was hoping some of the home smiths here had some ideas before I spend $20 on a tool to install a $0.50 spring.

 

[GRIZ22]

I use a small screwdriver. I ground the sides of the tip down so the tip (more or less) fits inside the spring so you can push it in. It doesn't have the bend that the Brownell's tool does but works good enough.

You can also use an unmodified crewdriver but the spring may slip off.

 

[Standing Wolf]

It's really hard to do, one of those jobs where you need to fit three hands into a space big enough for one finger.

It's tough the first time or two. I've found it helps to do a bit of judicious cursing, as well as undertake the task in a clean, well lighted place for those special times when the spring goes flying.

 

[Citroen]

Try Federal Primers

I have 3 revolvers in .45 ACP. All have had trigger work and lighter springs installed. None will ignite Winchester primers 100 percent but all will ignite Feberal primers - 100 percent.

Better than Winchester but not as good as Federals are the Wolf primers.

If you like a lighter trigger, before you go back to stock springs you might try Federal primers.

Two of the revolvers are range guns but one is my everyday carry so I too want reliable ignition.

John
Charlotte, NC

 

[Chuck Perry]

I load on a Dillon 650. I've read about an increased chance of primer detonation on the Dillon presses when running Federal primers. That is about the only thing holding me back from running Fed primers. The action was fantastic with the Miculek springs; supposed to be around 7#'s double action (don't have a trigger scale myself to check it). Still, it is plenty smooth enough with the Brownell's spring. The pull weight really isn't a big issue to me, so long as the pull is smooth.
So anyways, can anyone offer insight as to the trigger rebound spring and it's effects on reliability?

 

[mainmech48]

IMO, the main advantage of a lighter rebound spring is the reduction in pull weight. Speed and reliability of trigger return are affected if you go too light. I know of no sure way other than trial and error to find the optimum strength for a particular weapon. There is almost always one that'll give you a significant reduction while maintaining 100% functional reliability of trigger return and reasonable return speed. You just have to do some experimenting to find it.

While it's obviously do-able with improvised tools, removal and installation of rebound springs will be much, much simpler, easier and less frustration generating with the Brownell's tool. Spend enough time trying to chase down the one spring that got away or slip and bugger-up your frame or a part and the price is nothing in comparison.

I doubt that the rebound spring has anything to do with your ignition problems. If a factory-standard strength mainspring didn't cure it, then there may be something else going on too. If you want or must have 100% reliable ignition with any brand primers (or at least as close to it as is humanly possible) it might pay to have the factory or a knowledgable pistolsmith look it over.

Personally, the main cause of the few ignition problems I've had in my 625 seems to be clip related. Almost always, even when a second-strike didn't fire it, placing the round into a new clip would result in it firing. In the instances where it did not, the round wouldn't fire in another .45 weapon either, leading me to assume a 'dead' primer.

 

[earplug]

Extended firing pin and tool

I shoot WW WLP primers in my 625 JM. I have replaced springs, bent them etc.
Best thing to do is buy the extended firing pin for the newer revolvers. Cheap and they work.
Make a tool out a piece of steel, aluminum or brass rod thats a little smaller then the rebound spring. Bend a s curve in it to clear the inside of the frame. Cut a notch wider then the pin that holds the spring in place, and long enough to clear the pin while pushing in on the spring.
Any type of handle will be fine.

 

[rcmodel]

3/16" music wire
Dowel rod handle.

Heat & bend, slot end with Dremel cut-off wheel, epoxy in drilled dowel rod.






rcmodel

 

[Chuck Perry]

Mainmech48, thanks for the advice. Just to be clear, my revolver is 100% with the factory weight Pro Spring main spring I now have installed. It was the reduced power Miculek spring I replaced that was causing problems.

Earplug, the previous owner had already installed the C&S extended fp. I left it onboard, figure it can't hurt anything, so long as I always use snap caps to dry fire.

RCmodel, nice work! I had no idea that music (piano?) wire came that heavy. Since I don't have any of that stuff laying around, and considering the time/cost of running around and gathering it up, I guess I'll just bite the bullet and buy the Brownell's tool.

 

[JNewell]

What is the advantage of the reduced power rebound spring? Will it effect reliability? If I install one, what should I watch for to decide which weight works best for me?

1. The appearance of a lighter trigger stroke.

2. Yes, it could. You will get a less positive, slower trigger reset. Worst case, you can tie up the gun. Google Jerry Miculek (but spell the name correctly, I didn't) and trigger reset - he and others who shoot quickly say that a stock reset spring is better/faster/more reliable than a reduced weight reset spring.

3. Reset problems.

 

[rcmodel]

I had no idea that music (piano?) wire came that heavy.

Any good R/C Hobby Shop should have plenty of it, all the way up to 1/4".

Used to make Spring Steel landing gear for R/C airplanes!


rcmodel

 

[S&Wfan]

Yes . . . look at the primers on the rounds that didn't go "bang," and see if they have light primer strikes (this is quite apparent). If you have light strikes, and if you were shooting in the double action mode, just switch to Federal 150 primers and/or Federal ammo and you'll be good to go.

Back to the original question? The lighter spring is to lighten the trigger pull for competition use . . . and with use of Federal primers. Most, if not all players of the "gun game" crowd use Federal . . . and these guns are shot virtually double action all the time. Firing cocked, single action the hammer falls forward a longer distance and the primer strike is solid . . . even with lighter springs.

The standard S&W springs however . . . were chosen as being the best all-round spring rates one could use . . . to handle the great majority of uses of their products AND insure reliable ignition. Most people use their wheelguns to plink, target shoot and hunt in the single action mode. However, in the frantic yank and crank of a sudden self defense action, folks use double action . . . and ya gotta have "six for sure!"

Here's a wheelgun that's won a lot of matches for me through the years, a long-barrelled (originally) 25-2 in .45ACP. Both the double and single action trigger pulls are obscenely light . . . but totally reliable WITH Federal primers.

However, I wouldn't let my wife use this gun for self defense. As she says, "It goes off sometimes before I'm ready." It takes a lot of practice to shoot a gun this responsive well, while firing literally as fast as you can rotate the cylinder and get a perfect sight picture . . . but the results in a match are rewarding.

THEN AGAIN . . . this same gun could be ya in trouble if you weren't used to it and you were holding a robber at gunpoint . . . if someone sneezed and you jumped you'd shoot the guy.

Trust the S&W springs in your regular use S&W wheelguns. I sure do in most all my Smiths . . . and they are perfect for virtually all uses . . . and danged good too for "gun game" use!

T.