Refinishing, which would you do?

Status
Not open for further replies.

tnxdshooter

Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2011
Messages
789
Location
Crossville, TN
If you were going to have a rifle refinished would you have it dura coated over a parkerized base or teflon moly coated over a parkerized base? I am kind of leaning towards the teflon moly because I think it would wear better but I would like to get your all's opinions on the matter. I plan to maybe shoot the gun a few times a year and I dont plan to abuse it really. I have heard alot of bad things about dura coat. The funny thing is the refinisher that does the dura coat and the moly around here warrants dura coat for 5 years and the moly for 1 year. I have always thought bake on finishes were more durable than spray on and air dry finishes thus the higher warranty on the dura coat stumps me.


Sent from Droid Incredible on Verizon Wireless
 
I have used Dura Coat and Brownells Gun Kote. In both cases I stripped the metal of all the finish before applying the coating. It's been a long time since I used the Dura Coat. I think the proper process required stripping the old finish. I know that's the case with Gun Kote. Both products are designed to adhere to the metal's pores and be baked on. Most painted finishes that cover bluing or Parkerizing are a high temp epoxy type of paint. Blueing and Parkerizing is a oxidation process that protects the metal. I don't know that covering an oxidized metal surface with a coating will hold up.
 
I have used Dura Coat and Brownells Gun Kote. In both cases I stripped the metal of all the finish before applying the coating. It's been a long time since I used the Dura Coat. I think the proper process required stripping the old finish. I know that's the case with Gun Kote. Both products are designed to adhere to the metal's pores and be baked on. Most painted finishes that cover bluing or Parkerizing are a high temp epoxy type of paint. Blueing and Parkerizing is a oxidation process that protects the metal. I don't know that covering an oxidized metal surface with a coating will hold up.


Really cuz Ive heard just the opposite from numerous refinishers that a parked base works better than aluminum oxide blasted bases with no parkerization.

Sent from Droid Incredible on Verizon Wireless
 
take a look at http://www.shootiniron.com/#.

Mac does a poly over park that is tough as nails and looks great.

I have a duracoated pistol and it started flaking off the first year. Just a glove box gun too.

My AK that Mac did looks great now 10 years later.
 
Colt driver,


I was thinking this would be a tougher finish than duracoat. My only reservation was and why I was confused was the refinisher offers a five year warranty on all parked under duracoating jobs and only a one year warranty on all teflon/moly over parked jobs.
 
duracoat over parkerizing is great

Duracoat without parkerizing not so good. I duracoated 2 rock Islands that were parkerized and have had no problems. A kimber I did without parkerizing flaked off badly.
 
So the parkerizing is porous. It may well create a substrate exactly like paint primer that anchors the duracoat so it stays on better.

Mac has perfected his tuff coat and may have some trade secret or process that makes his so durable.

The other thing Mac will do is a fluff and buff. When you disassemble and mass treat the parts there will be residue here and there. Mac cleans all that off. My AK is smooth as glass and has, for an AK, a very smooth trigger.
 
So the parkerizing is porous. It may well create a substrate exactly like paint primer that anchors the duracoat so it stays on better.

Mac has perfected his tuff coat and may have some trade secret or process that makes his so durable.

The other thing Mac will do is a fluff and buff. When you disassemble and mass treat the parts there will be residue here and there. Mac cleans all that off. My AK is smooth as glass and has, for an AK, a very smooth trigger.

My only concerns are I would have to send it off and it would cost more once shipping costs are figured in.


Sent from Droid Incredible on Verizon Wireless
 
Really cuz Ive heard just the opposite from numerous refinishers that a parked base works better than aluminum oxide blasted bases with no parkerizatio

It might work just fine. They used to recommend a mild bead blasting before you applied the coating. I have also parked a few barrels. A parked finish feels like bead blasted metal. The parked finish might provide good adhesion but I haven't tried it.
 
It might work just fine. They used to recommend a mild bead blasting before you applied the coating. I have also parked a few barrels. A parked finish feels like bead blasted metal. The parked finish might provide good adhesion but I haven't tried it.

Supposedly whether this is true or not they said they would degrease it. Then aluminum oxide blast it, then park it, then do the moly or duracoat.


Sent from Droid Incredible on Verizon Wireless
 
I have bought finishes and I have done my own. Parkerized is a good base for most. The key is to have it rough enough for the finish to get a grip (around 300 grit seems to be about a smooth as you can go and get good adhesion) and CLEAN. No residual oil of any kind. Park tends to hang onto old oil, so cleaning will be tough, but it's doable.

One of my favorite finishes is Metacol. It's a proprietary finish developed by Beretta. Arizona Response Systems will do a fine job installing a Metacol finish. But, you have to be patient. They are usually busy and about 5 weeks from the time they get the gun until it's back in your hands. I had my Savage 99 done as it was rusted and pitted. Everyone who has seen it and handled it loves the finish :)

http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.com/finish/pagefinish.shtml :)
 
I have just about decided that I am going to let mac at macs shooting irons do the work.


Sent from Droid Incredible on Verizon Wireless
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top