Reloading 20 gauge shot shells

[mpofficer31a]

ALL,

I'm thinking of reloading 20 gauge shot shells. Mostly 3/4 - 1 oz turkey loads, but also some home defense / coyote / varmint loads with #4 buckshot (6.2mm).

BUT... I've never loaded shotgun shells before. I've got experience with load development and using various bullets and powders. I've loaded 223, 308, 6.5 CM, 9mm, 357 SIG, 40, 10mm, 45 ACP and 45 LC.

I recently picked up a Lee Load-All; it's not exactly a sophisticated machine, but I've playing with it and it seems like it'll work fine for my needs.

Does anyone have any pointers, tips, websites, recommended reading or etc?

I'd appreciate all the help I can get. It seems hard to find 20 gauge reloading information...

Thanks!

Scott

 

[Blue68f100]

I started loading 20 when I was 12 yrs old. Loading for shotgun is not the same as metallic cartridge. There is no load development. You follow the receipt in the book and load. It tells you how much powder for your payload, which wadding to use, with the particular Hull you using. Hulls have a different design and require a specific wadding for it to seal off.

Lyman has a good book on hand loading shotgun's. I would start there before I go out buying supplies

 

[unwashed]

I've been using a Lee Load All II for 30 years, although it's a no frills shotshell loader it does exactly what it is suppose to. I just loaded 50 12ga shells in about 50 minutes. I also bought the 20ga conversion kit when my kids came of age to start shooting. One most important thing I can advise is let the crimp set the wad pressure, the more expensive machine you can set the pressure but the lee you can not. In the my first 2-3 years I was pushing the wad down at full stoke and the crimps were all collapsing,caving in, shots were erratic, some more power and some not so. It took me years to figure it out. Now I push the wad in until it click passed the top of the shell, add the shot and then use my finger to push it all down to about 3/8" from the top of the shell. Start the crimp and finish it off for a nice factory like crimp. Since I'd been doing that I haven't had any cave in crimps and shots are very consistent. Also, If you do not have it, get the auto primer feeder kit, it makes things go faster. Funny, back then all we had were magazines and vcr's and I was reading a magazine and they mention wad pressure and a light bulb went on. MEC machines back then were about $400, yikes but still don't feel the need to go there.

 

[rfwobbly]

Lyman has a good book on hand loading shotgun's. I would start there before I go out buying supplies.

Lyman No.5

 

[kalielkslayer]

The Lyman handbook is the Bible.

Ballistic Products sells Mini manuals for specific purposes. Betting they have one for 20 gauge. But they probably refer to their products. Don’t get me wrong, their products are top shelf.

I had issues at times like “unwashed.”

But when I started using BPs products, I could put a 1/4”, or 1/8” felt wad in the wad, or a cardboard overshot card on top of the column, you might even call it load development.

You’ll learn there are tapered hulls and straight wall hulls. That’s why you follow the book for every component.

 

[mpofficer31a]

Thanks all! I've got a Lyman book on the way. I appreciate the advice and information.