What do you people load in your 303? So far I been messing around with reloader 15 and sierra 150 sp on Remington and win brass and win primers.I have tried different charges of powder and bullet seat depth and used no crimp,light crimp,and heavy crimp and every thing else I could think of and still only get 3'' groups at 50 yards. The rifle gave several 1 1/2 to 2 inch groups with S&B ammo at 100 yards on Saterday so I know its not the rifle.Is there any other powder and or bullets or anything else any of you would recommed?
reloading 303 brit
- Thread starter vzenmn
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nbkky71
Member
I don't reload .303 yet, but here's a link for some recipes from 303british.com
http://www3.sympatico.ca/shooters/303_Loads.htm
http://www3.sympatico.ca/shooters/303_Loads.htm
Fatelvis
Member
I like shooting my cast bulluts out of my Brits. I use Lyman's #314299 mould (30 cal crimp-on style gas check) with wheel weights sized to .314". I lube them with RCBS pistol lube, and load them over 16 grains of Alliant 2400. It is a mild load, very accurate, and doesnt lead the bore at all!
Fatelvis
Member
.312" is well within the normal range, for a 303. From what I hear they can range from .311"-.3135".
cheygriz
member
Try the MilSpec Remington 9 1/2 primers, and either 4895 or 4064, neck size only, and if that doesn't cure it, try Hornady 174 grain FMJ.
db_tanker
Member
well, your using a decent powder...I use it in my 303 Brits...
A few things, however....
First...are you full length sizing? Just try to neck size and don't set the shoulder back too far...to make it easy, I use two quarters on the shell holder to stop the die at the distance. Most 303 chambers in the Enfields are generous.
and don't crimp...neck tension is plenty for this round, I think.
Second, I have used cast bullets sized to 312 and also like the 150 gr. Hornady 312's...haven't had too bad of luck with some 123gr 7.62x39 bullets either...although they were more for plinking than anything else.
Lastly, I think your on the right track with the powder your using...but if you want to try something diffrent, give Winchester 760, AA2520, Varget, 4895 (already mentioned) and mebbe 4350 for something slower perhaps.
Hope this helps a bit.
D
A few things, however....
First...are you full length sizing? Just try to neck size and don't set the shoulder back too far...to make it easy, I use two quarters on the shell holder to stop the die at the distance. Most 303 chambers in the Enfields are generous.
and don't crimp...neck tension is plenty for this round, I think. Second, I have used cast bullets sized to 312 and also like the 150 gr. Hornady 312's...haven't had too bad of luck with some 123gr 7.62x39 bullets either...although they were more for plinking than anything else.
Lastly, I think your on the right track with the powder your using...but if you want to try something diffrent, give Winchester 760, AA2520, Varget, 4895 (already mentioned) and mebbe 4350 for something slower perhaps.
Hope this helps a bit.
D
Carl N. Brown
Member
db tanker "Most 303 chambers in the Enfields are generous."
You put a on that for a reason!
Comparing .303 cartridge cases fired in my Lee Enfield to
unfired factory cartridge cases the shoulders were expanded
to appear like a different round (shoulder only not head or
body expansion). The .303 head-spaces on the rim so the
shoulders in the military Lee-Enfield chamber appear to be
relieved to allow the build up of crud on the battlefield.
I second the neck-size only and no crimp suggestions, but
that's just because it has always worked best for me.
You put a
on that for a reason!Comparing .303 cartridge cases fired in my Lee Enfield to
unfired factory cartridge cases the shoulders were expanded
to appear like a different round (shoulder only not head or
body expansion). The .303 head-spaces on the rim so the
shoulders in the military Lee-Enfield chamber appear to be
relieved to allow the build up of crud on the battlefield.
I second the neck-size only and no crimp suggestions, but
that's just because it has always worked best for me.
Thanks for all the advise.
I have been using a lee loader I got for 12 bucks which only sizes the neck so its a go there. I check my powder supply and found that I only have enough reloader 15 for mabye one more box full and nobody carries the stuff around here, so I guess i'll try 4064 or 4350 so I can use the powder for reloading 7.5x55 swiss too. The only bullets I could find in my area is one box of 150 grn hornady so i'm gonna buy that box and maybe order some heavier bullets from the net.
I have been using a lee loader I got for 12 bucks which only sizes the neck so its a go there. I check my powder supply and found that I only have enough reloader 15 for mabye one more box full and nobody carries the stuff around here, so I guess i'll try 4064 or 4350 so I can use the powder for reloading 7.5x55 swiss too. The only bullets I could find in my area is one box of 150 grn hornady so i'm gonna buy that box and maybe order some heavier bullets from the net.
Sunray
Member
"...they can range from .311"-.3135"..." .303 barrels can range from .311" to .315" and still be considered ok. .312" is just dandy. There are lots of good bullets available. Check the headspace anyway. Go here for data or just use your manual. http://www.303british.com/
reloading the 303 Brit
Hi vzenmn
I was getting 1 1/4 inch 10 shot groups with my 1902 LMLE (with new barrel). Best bullets were Speer 180 gr RNSP, seated as far out as the magazine would allow, partial neck resize (so as not to touch the shoulder), lubed case (for firing), MR200 powder, muzzle velocity 2395fps. Free floating barrel and fired over a bench rest. I could hit a beer can at 200m with it. (That would be an empty beer can - not emptied at the range).
Pete
Hi vzenmn
I was getting 1 1/4 inch 10 shot groups with my 1902 LMLE (with new barrel). Best bullets were Speer 180 gr RNSP, seated as far out as the magazine would allow, partial neck resize (so as not to touch the shoulder), lubed case (for firing), MR200 powder, muzzle velocity 2395fps. Free floating barrel and fired over a bench rest. I could hit a beer can at 200m with it. (That would be an empty beer can - not emptied at the range).
Pete
fastbike
Member
What size bullets?
You have not mentioned what size bullets you're using. If they're small for your bore, that will generally be negative for accuracy.
You have not mentioned what size bullets you're using. If they're small for your bore, that will generally be negative for accuracy.
armoredman
Member
I use H4895 and the .3105 174gr Hornady FMJ/BT in my No4Mk1*, and have gotten a few MOA groups with it. Fun rifle!
dwave
Member
I got a 1.5 inch group @ 100 yards with my .303. I used CCI Benchrest primers and RL15. I don't crimp my .303 brass either.
schmidtbender
Member
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2007
- Messages
- 47
IMO the 3 keys with a SMLE are bullet diameter, necksizing and headspace.
A .313-.315 200-250gr gascheck cast bullet will generally work well with moderate loads and unless you plan to hunt BIG game, will kill as well as a factory 30-30. Necksizing has been covered, I would add a Lee factory crimp die as well. For cast loads using Ballistics Products inert filler (originally for high performance shotgun loads) will fill the case over the powder and ensure consistent ignition. Finally headspace, while the neck sizing will let the case headspace on the shoulder, SMLEs do have quick change bolt heads and it's not a bad idea to match one to your cases rim thickness to remove another variable. There is also a ton of info on bedding the "smelly" which is another BIG variable. The 308 Match SMLEs from Canada shoot as well as any military match rifle so it can be done. But the 303 will shoot, just ask anyone with a P-14 Enfield..... DEADLY!
A .313-.315 200-250gr gascheck cast bullet will generally work well with moderate loads and unless you plan to hunt BIG game, will kill as well as a factory 30-30. Necksizing has been covered, I would add a Lee factory crimp die as well. For cast loads using Ballistics Products inert filler (originally for high performance shotgun loads) will fill the case over the powder and ensure consistent ignition. Finally headspace, while the neck sizing will let the case headspace on the shoulder, SMLEs do have quick change bolt heads and it's not a bad idea to match one to your cases rim thickness to remove another variable. There is also a ton of info on bedding the "smelly" which is another BIG variable. The 308 Match SMLEs from Canada shoot as well as any military match rifle so it can be done. But the 303 will shoot, just ask anyone with a P-14 Enfield..... DEADLY!
aka108
Member
I've had good results using HXP (Greek) cases, Winchester primers and 42 gr of Accurate 2700. Bullet is Remington 180 gr. Neck size and crimp.
Im using 311 diameter bullets and now currently using speer 150gr sp.
The last time I shot the enfield the first 3 shot goup at 50 yards was about an inch and the second was 13/4" due to a flyer. At a hundred it was grouping 5 rounds at 4''.
And thank you schmidtbender for the cast bullet and rim thickness info. And if you have any links on bedding I would like them.
stovepipe699
Member
I beleive Hodgdon lists BLC-2 as good in the 303. If you or someone you know has some I'd give it a try.
cherryriver
Member
Mine likes the Hornady 174 FMJ boat-tails, too. I stick with Winchester brass and neck size, so trimming is unnecessary.
I use Varget now, since it's good for .223, the only other rifle round I load. Seems to work fine, using anywhere from 38.5 to 40.0gr.
Bill
I use Varget now, since it's good for .223, the only other rifle round I load. Seems to work fine, using anywhere from 38.5 to 40.0gr.
Bill
Hi vzenmn
You did not mention what sighting system you use?
My results were with a scope and a brand new #4 barrel with the chamber cut back a little to get the extractor cut-out to line up. This resulted in a tight chamber and of course, reduced bullet jump.
Have you checked your muzzle crown?
Even a new barrel can have a lousy crown (some well meaning folk run a countersink in their muzzles). Also, a used barrel may well have muzzle tip wear from a pull through or cleaning rod or even light corrosion and or dust, which is basically invisible to the naked eye. If the barrel doesn't 'look' brand new, then chopping off 10 to 15 mm and crowning the muzzle properly can make a huge difference - like 3-inch groups down to 1 inch. Flyers are also an indication of muzzle wear.
Have you examined the appearance of the bullet hole on the target?
This hole should be perfectly symmetrical. Just the slightest eccentricity (and I refer to the 'petals' formed in the centre of the 'ring') will indicate bullet yaw, which means muzzle wear.
Try using round nose bullets of the largest diameter you can get. This gives minimum bullet jump as well as longest bullet bearing surface, all of which helps with accuracy.
Are you testing with starting loads or max loads?
Too light a load may not give enough velocity-spin to properly stabilize the bullet. (I never found any difference in group size due to load).
It is also important to ensure that there is no case deformation from resizing or seating the bullet - the neck can easily get pushed out of line - one of the hazards of neck sizing only.
I have re-barrelled three Lee Enfields - two Mk1's with #4 barrels and one Mk3 with an Mk3 barrel. The Mk3 shot well with any cartridge or loading, to the same point of aim. The #4 barrels shot better.
My load data;
CCI primers Powder - MR200 Lot 180 from Musgrave
150gr Hornady SPSP 40.9gr 2690 fps
180gr Speer RNSP 38.6gr 2395 fps
I used the same powder in my 223 Mini-14, also with good results.
You did not mention what sighting system you use?
My results were with a scope and a brand new #4 barrel with the chamber cut back a little to get the extractor cut-out to line up. This resulted in a tight chamber and of course, reduced bullet jump.
Have you checked your muzzle crown?
Even a new barrel can have a lousy crown (some well meaning folk run a countersink in their muzzles). Also, a used barrel may well have muzzle tip wear from a pull through or cleaning rod or even light corrosion and or dust, which is basically invisible to the naked eye. If the barrel doesn't 'look' brand new, then chopping off 10 to 15 mm and crowning the muzzle properly can make a huge difference - like 3-inch groups down to 1 inch. Flyers are also an indication of muzzle wear.
Have you examined the appearance of the bullet hole on the target?
This hole should be perfectly symmetrical. Just the slightest eccentricity (and I refer to the 'petals' formed in the centre of the 'ring') will indicate bullet yaw, which means muzzle wear.
Try using round nose bullets of the largest diameter you can get. This gives minimum bullet jump as well as longest bullet bearing surface, all of which helps with accuracy.
Are you testing with starting loads or max loads?
Too light a load may not give enough velocity-spin to properly stabilize the bullet. (I never found any difference in group size due to load).
It is also important to ensure that there is no case deformation from resizing or seating the bullet - the neck can easily get pushed out of line - one of the hazards of neck sizing only.
I have re-barrelled three Lee Enfields - two Mk1's with #4 barrels and one Mk3 with an Mk3 barrel. The Mk3 shot well with any cartridge or loading, to the same point of aim. The #4 barrels shot better.
My load data;
CCI primers Powder - MR200 Lot 180 from Musgrave
150gr Hornady SPSP 40.9gr 2690 fps
180gr Speer RNSP 38.6gr 2395 fps
I used the same powder in my 223 Mini-14, also with good results.
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