Reloading Problems with Savage 111 7mm mag

[Bwana John]

Ive got a buddy with a Savage 111 7mm mag. The guy he bought if from said "it dosent work with reloads". It does work fine with factory, hes put 100+ rounds thru it, and took a cous deer last season with it.

I said Ill bet it does.
So my buddy buys RCBS full lenght dies, and I reload a couple of rounds.

We go to shoot the reloads and I run the rounds thru the chamber, works fine.
My buddy goes to shoot it and cant close the bolt with out force, and then cant pull the bolt out with out really reefing on the bolt handle.
I try again, and it and have no problem chambering and then extracting loaded round.
He tries again, and cant chamber without extreame effort, and has to put the butt on the ground to extract.
Now I try again, I cant lower the bolt with out way too much effort, and have the same problem extracting???

This happens with a couple of rounds, first I can get it to chamber no problem, then He cant, then I cant. He only gets it to chamber a couple of times, I usually can get it wotk at first, then no go after a couple of more tries for both of us.

I am not that familiar with the Savage actions, and not really that impressed with them (even before this happened).

The only info I found on this rifle was that they have poor extractors, It does look kinda small, but seemed to work when the round seemed stuck in the chamber and you had to reef on the bolt handle to get it out.

Anybody got any ideas?, Im feeling pretty confused.

 

[rcmodel]

First, I would throughly clean the action and put a dab of grease on the locking lugs, and firing pin cocking cam.
Work the bolt several times to spread it around inside the receiver locking recesses.

Then I would adjust the sizing die down, until you have a very definate bump at full press stroke, indicating the press linkage slack & frame flex is being taken out by "cam-over" of the linkage.

Next I would carefully measure the sized cases and insure they are not over the max length of 2.500". If they are over that, even slightly, they need trimming to 2.490".

Use proper case lube when you size, including a tiny amount inside the case mouths to ease expander ball passage back out.

If you do all that, you have a slick rifle action, with factory spec brass, and it should work just like it does with factory loads.

If it doesn't, you have a pressure problem with the load you are using.

rcmodel

 

[Bwana John]

First, I would throughly clean the action and put a dab of grease on the locking lugs, and firing pin cocking cam.
Work the bolt several times to spread it around inside the receiver locking recesses.

Just did that before this happened

Then I would adjust the sizing die down, until you have a very definate bump at full press stroke, indicating the press linkage slack & frame flex is being taken out by "cam-over" of the linkage.

RCBS says go 1/8 to 1/4 turn past full contact the die was set at 1/4 turn (max recomended)

Next I would carefully measure the sized cases and insure they are not over the max length of 2.500". If they are over that, even slightly, they need trimming to 2.490".

All cases were trimmed to minimum, 2.490".

Use proper case lube when you size, including a tiny amount inside the case mouths to ease expander ball passage back out.

Cases were properly lubed, and tumbled dry. Cases were also tumbled before sizing.

If you do all that, you have a slick rifle action, with factory spec brass, and it should work just like it does with factory loads. If it doesn't, you have a pressure problem with the load you are using.

Only shot 2 rounds, no problem extracting or ejecting fired cases. The problem was with the cases BEFORE firing(???).
I didnt feel good that the rifle was not working properly, so we didnt shoot any more, I dont think it was my reloads.
Load was 168 gr BTHP with 63 gr IMR 7828.

 

[243winxb]

1.Check for an oval chamber. Measure your fired factory brass with a micrometer. Also mark the factory ammo with an index mark, keep it @ 12 oclock on each when firing. Shoot the reloaded ammo with the index mark at the same place as when the factory ammo was fired. Use the index mark when Full length resizing, putting each case in the same way. This will help to see if you have an oval chamber. 2. There was a Winchester ammo recall a while back (2005). "Olin Corporation, through its Winchester Division, is recalling three (3) lots of its SUPREME® 7mm Remington Magnum 150 Grain BALLISTIC SILVERTIP® (BST) centerfire rifle ammunition (Symbol Number SBST7).

Lot Numbers (last four characters): VL82, VL92 and VM10." If you have gotten some hot loaded factory ammo, the belt/web of the case might be expanded to much. 3. If i remember correctly on some Savages the bold face can turn 180 degrees, turn the bold face and see if it makes a difference. There is about a 1 % chance that any of these are your problem. I have see only 1 oval chamber in many year, small base dies fixed that one. (30-06)http://www.huntingtons.com/dies_smallbase.html

 

[Bwana John]

1.Check for an oval chamber. Measure your fired factory brass with a micrometer.

I thought about that, ill try the mike.

There was a Winchester ammo recall a while back (2005).

I was using Federal brass.

3. If i remember correctly on some Savages the bold face can turn 180 degrees, turn the bold face and see if it makes a difference.

Ill try that too. I REALLY dont like the action now with the ugly barrel nut, the pressed fake wood look, the funky bolt, and the leaf trigger spring.

 

[243winxb]

Added info to Oval Chamber

Check for an oval chamber. Measure your fired factory brass with a micrometer. Also mark the factory ammo with an index mark , keep it @ 12 oclock on each when firing. Shoot the reloaded ammo with the index mark at the same place as when the factory ammo was fired. Use the index mark when Full length resizing, putting each case in the same way. This will help to see if you have an oval chamber.