Reloading Scales - Digital? Or Beam?
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D. Manley
Member
If you're on a tight budget, I'd go for a quality beam. The Dillon Eliminator (one of the OHaus clones) would be 1st choice since it is about as good a buy as you're likely to find. If you can afford it, a good electronic is really nice but I'd avoid the "bargain" models...some seem to work OK, many do not. I personally use both...the electronic for quick setup and general work and validated by 10-throw composites with the beam. My opinion is, on the lower end of the price list, you're more likely to get something accurate, reliable and long-lasting in a beam than in an electronic.
Valkman
Member
To be honest, I got a Dillon digital when I started so I've never used a beam scale. But it's been great to use so I'd say digital in scales and calipers! 
Ridgerunner665
Member
Beam
Only one? I use my digital more often because its faster but i check its accuracy against the beam scale from time to time. BTW the digital scale has allways been accurate. Remember whatever scale you buy you have to use it properly. Solid and level work surface, no air movement around the scale, keep it clean and check your zero... Carefully.
Get a quality beam.... and then later get a good quality digital as they are great for weighting unknown values.... I use my digital for rifle brass when doing bench work to separate by headstamp and weight... If i was just starting out and loading for hand guns i would really want a beam.... and watch those powder weights. good luck..
Sport45
Member
I have a Pact digital and a Dillon beam. I can't remember the last time I got the Dillon out. I let the digital "warm up" while I'm getting the rest of my reloading stuff out and together. Then I calibrate it with the supplied weights. I use the powder pan as a check weight. Mine weighs 123.2 grains.
I've always wanted to file that extra 0.2 grain off of it but never bothered to do it.
I've always wanted to file that extra 0.2 grain off of it but never bothered to do it.
jim in Anchorage
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Still using my 1976 vintage Ohaus 5-0-5. As far as beam scales go,keep the balance point clean and they will always be accurate. "Gravity isn't just a good idea,it's the law"
skidooman603
Member
20 yrs and my RCBS 10-10 is still good as new. As a matter of a fact I could sell it for more now than I bought it for new then
jcwit
member
Check out the thread "check your powder scale" in this section. Sorta blowes the theory that you have to spend big bucks on an electronic scale. I've used an inexpensive ele. scale for years that has worked fantisic, and it repeats on the button every time, but it has no bragging rights and does not inpress any of my buddies.
Balance beam are accurate but very slow compared to the electronic scales. I have both but like the elec. because I'm weighing on the elec while I would still be setting up the balance.
I know speed isn't everything but with my old shaking hands balance beams are no fun.
Balance beam are accurate but very slow compared to the electronic scales. I have both but like the elec. because I'm weighing on the elec while I would still be setting up the balance.
I know speed isn't everything but with my old shaking hands balance beams are no fun.
ranger335v
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- 3,797
Which to get is a personal thing, mostly based on how you expect to use it and how long you expect it to last.
For longevity, get the beam. The mechanism is about as simple as it gets and the driving force, gravity, is as dependable as it gets. I got my first scale in '65, it's as dead on accurate as when it was new and it's still going strong. No electronic insturment is that dependable.
Speed is something I can't fathom. Digitals typically have a time lag of perhaps a half second to register a weight, all magnetic damped beams settle in two seconds or so. Is that a lot of time difference? Up to the user.
Beams tend to be much more sensitive. My beams (2) respond to a single kernel of 4831, never seen a digital of any kind be that sensitive. And beams respond immediately to a change so they follow tricklers more precisely, IMHO.
Most of those who say digitals are easier to use or read are likely setting their scales on the bench top. That's fine for a digital but poor for a beam. If the beam and trickler are properly set on a shelf at about nose level and near a stand mounted powder measure, the work flow will be easy, fast and the scale will be quite easy to read. Tool placement counts a lot, if the scale is on one end of the bench (and poorly lit) while the powder measure is on the the other end, don't blame the scale for its being slow to use!
Most digitals drift in use, requiring frequent zero and calibration, beams don't. Dititals require steady electrical power and room temps, beams don't care. Digitals are sensitive to stray electrical and magnetic fields, beams aren't. Digitals can easily suffer unseen internal damage but if you damage a beam you can see it and be warned. If you are working with max charges your scale need be off just once and you may never care about reloading again!
If you don't care much for price or tool longivity the digitals can be great. If you measure/weigh a lot of cast bullets or cases then a digital will be great. But for the prime purpose of weighing powder, the beam is king of the hill.
I'm happy for those who have and love digitals but I was a life-long electronic instrument tech in the defense and space business, there are no digital scales on my loading bench.
For longevity, get the beam. The mechanism is about as simple as it gets and the driving force, gravity, is as dependable as it gets. I got my first scale in '65, it's as dead on accurate as when it was new and it's still going strong. No electronic insturment is that dependable.
Speed is something I can't fathom. Digitals typically have a time lag of perhaps a half second to register a weight, all magnetic damped beams settle in two seconds or so. Is that a lot of time difference? Up to the user.
Beams tend to be much more sensitive. My beams (2) respond to a single kernel of 4831, never seen a digital of any kind be that sensitive. And beams respond immediately to a change so they follow tricklers more precisely, IMHO.
Most of those who say digitals are easier to use or read are likely setting their scales on the bench top. That's fine for a digital but poor for a beam. If the beam and trickler are properly set on a shelf at about nose level and near a stand mounted powder measure, the work flow will be easy, fast and the scale will be quite easy to read. Tool placement counts a lot, if the scale is on one end of the bench (and poorly lit) while the powder measure is on the the other end, don't blame the scale for its being slow to use!
Most digitals drift in use, requiring frequent zero and calibration, beams don't. Dititals require steady electrical power and room temps, beams don't care. Digitals are sensitive to stray electrical and magnetic fields, beams aren't. Digitals can easily suffer unseen internal damage but if you damage a beam you can see it and be warned. If you are working with max charges your scale need be off just once and you may never care about reloading again!
If you don't care much for price or tool longivity the digitals can be great. If you measure/weigh a lot of cast bullets or cases then a digital will be great. But for the prime purpose of weighing powder, the beam is king of the hill.
I'm happy for those who have and love digitals but I was a life-long electronic instrument tech in the defense and space business, there are no digital scales on my loading bench.
As a handgunner, interested in turning out rounds, my press setup stays the same for 100's/1000's of rounds. So speed of the measurement isn't important. When switching throws, yeah, I do many repeated tests. But once the new load is set, it's "lever away".
I use a Lee beam. Zero every session. Check 3 throws when I sit down for a session. (Press still set from load workup.) Then every 30 or so rounds, I'll take primed case with powder, dump it in the beam, then place that case right back under powder & recharge, and continue loading. After a couple more rounds I'll take a glance at the beam, by that time it's come to a rest, and (so far) every time it's showing that the throw hasn't changed.
So... no digits for me.
I use a Lee beam. Zero every session. Check 3 throws when I sit down for a session. (Press still set from load workup.) Then every 30 or so rounds, I'll take primed case with powder, dump it in the beam, then place that case right back under powder & recharge, and continue loading. After a couple more rounds I'll take a glance at the beam, by that time it's come to a rest, and (so far) every time it's showing that the throw hasn't changed.
So... no digits for me.
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