Reloading Tips and Tricks for Handgun Cartridges

[GunAdmirer]

I am new to reloading and wondering what tips and tricks you all have learned over the years about setting up dies and reloading handgun cartridges. All my reloading equipment should be in this weekend, so I will be setting up my reloading bench. I will be reloading .357 mag, .45 acp and 9mm mainly with cast and plated bullets. I'm a little nervous about setting up the dies. Please share your best tips and tricks.

 

[caz223]

Be careful with plated bullets and 9mm (and .45, but not as much so...) that you don't overcrimp them, the temptation is to crimp them too much.
Start with .45 first, easiest of the three to learn on...

What press, etc. are you using?

 

[NoHarmNoFAL]

1 Take your time
2 The area should be well lit
3 NO distractions
4 Take your time
5 measure twice
6 Take your time
7 Use case lube (use it very sparingly I like Dillon or One Shot) makes life smooth.
8 Use quality components (Do not use any A-merc brass)
9 Take your time
10 read the loading manuals and the components load requirements
11 Start 10-15% under max.
12 There are 7000 grains per pound
13 keep your workbench clear of junk and clutter
14 Take your time
15 In mid stroke if something doesn't feel right, it's most likely not right.
16 Ask lots of specific questions here ( it makes us feel smart when we know the answers )
17 use a funel to fill the powder measure (don't ask about that one)
18 Buy a case gage and use it
19 buy everything in bulk it's cheaper
20 Take your time
21 Don't bother trying to match 1000 bullets to 1000 primers, it will never work out
22 DO NOT SMOKE AND RELOAD
23 Everyone has their own pet loads
24 Use a very sturdy bench, your press is a force multiplier
25 Label everything

 

[GunAdmirer]

The Main Stuff:
Lee Classic Cast Press
PACT digital scale
RCBS carbide dies - 3 die sets
Frankfort Arsenal tumbler with walnut media
RCBS hand priming tool
Frankfort Arsenal caliper

How do you keep from over crimping plated bullets?

 

[caz223]

To avoid overcrimping, bell mouth just enough to get the bullet to sit just inside of the mouth of the case evenly, and not shave off the plating when being seated.
Once seated, just crimp enough to remove the visible bell, and test the finished round for setback by pressing the finished round into a block of wood nose first as hard as you can.
If the bullet goes into the case, even slightly, crimp a tiny bit more, then repeat test.

That is for taper crimp cartridges, that headspace on the case mouth. (Like 9mm and .45 acp.)

Don't be afraid to crimp .357 magnum (Unless, of course, you choose to load plated .357 magnum bullets.).
Most loads for .357 magnum, esp. full power ones, love a heavy roll crimp.

 

[Ol` Joe]

Try seating and crimping as seperate steps until you get a feel for what you`re doing, I`ve been reloading handgun since the mid `60s and still do it just because. This helps prevent crushed cases, shaved bullets and high blood pressure.

The die should be screwed in until you feel it hit a case mouth with the ram at its top position then unscrew it a 1/2 turn. Set the die to seat the bullet to lenght, then reset the die to crimp after ALL the cases have bullets seated in them. Remember to unscrew the seating stem when you go back and crimp or you`ll seat the bullet deeper in the case.

When crimping measure the case mouth on a crimped round and adjust until the mouth measures .468-.472. You want to just remove the bell and get a light bit on the bullet. I`d stop at the larger diameter and see if the round feeds in your gun, if so and you can`t push the bullet deeper by hand on you bench top you should be good.

Once you feel good about seating and crimping as a single step here`s a trick to make resetting your die quicker. Measure the die from the top of the seating stem to the bottom of the die set useing your caliper, record this lenght and reset to it when setting up for this bullet at later dates. The lock ring must be left alone, with it set for proper crimping and locked in place for this to work. You can record the lenght for different bullets this way and return to the proper setting without fuss. I use this method and can go from 185gr HPs to 200 LSWC to 230 RN with out tinkering with the die. I measure once to the recorded lenght, seat a bullet and check to insure the cartridge lenght is right. 99.9999% of the time it is.

Be sure to double check the first cartridge you load for lenght each time you start a new lot #/box of bullets to ensure the manufacture didn`t change the bullet shape.

 

[Sharps Shooter]

I agree with Ol' Joe about making seating and crimping separate steps until you really get the hang of it. I still do it that way, especially when loading revolver cartridges on a single stage press.

I also learned the hard way a couple of months ago about what Ol' Joe said about watching out for when bullet manufacturers change the shape of their bullets. I won't mention any names, but it is a very popular bullet manufacturer and I was loading for a 7mm Rem Mag using their premium line of bullets. I noticed, about 20 cartridges later, that every bullet from a new box I'd opened, was about 1/8th inch farther down in the cartridge cases than the ones from the older box of bullets. Those son-of-a-guns had changed the shape of their ogives. An irritated phone call got me two brand new boxes of premium bullets, but it was still a hassel.

 

[griz]

One of the advantages of a single stage press is it's easy to check the powder charge before seating the bullet. So don't forget to do that, use a flashlight if neccessary. And to reinforce a comment already made, if something seems wrong, take the time to figure out what's wrong. You WILL have time to take apart the rounds filled with mistakes, so invest that time in making the rounds right in the firt place.

Enjoy your new hobby and don't forget to shoot them all up