repair or alteration of checkering?

[flechero]

I have 30 LPI checkering on my front strap (and MSH) that has worn a bit over the years. (aluminum frame) It's not sharp anymore and depending on conditions it doesn't provide the desired level of traction.

Is it possible to remove every other point? Either knock off the remaining (alternating) points into a checkerboard pattern, or remove every other line? My thinking is that this will greatly increase traction giving it the spacing of a more aggressive checkering, but keeping the smaller points of the 30 LPI pattern.

Has anyone tried or seen this before?

Thanks for any input or suggestions!

 

[Jim K]

I have never seen it done, and it would be a really tedious operation. You might have the checkering refreshed (a common practice) to sharpen the points, but as for removing points or a line of points, I think it would be pretty expensive even if someone agreed to do it.

Maybe I am wrong, and someone will come along who does it all the time and charges $3.95; if so, you will have your answer.

Jim

 

[flechero]

Good to know- I was afraid that to recut the existing checker would remove even more material and leave the frame too thin.

Refinish isn't a problem, it needs that regardless of what I do for the checkering.

 

[flechero]

After further thought... I think you are right about the cost of labor.. I'll leave it as is and use the would be fix $$$ towards another purchase... been considering a commander lately.

Thanks!

 

[Jim K]

Yes, recutting the checkering could thin the frame too much, but usually checkering doesn't go that deep. Making sure there is enough metal is part of the recheckering work. Or you can use a file with a different angle to sharpen the points without deepening the cuts.

Jim

 

[bangswitch]

I have 30 LPI checkering on my front strap traction.

Is it possible to remove every other point? Either knock off the remaining (alternating) points into a checkerboard pattern, or remove every other line? !

I've done it on wood checkering, but not metal, although the basic technique is the same.

If you re-cut every other line on 30 LPI and take it until you have proper "pyramids", it will give you 15 LPI, which makes rather large checks. Larger checks are deeper than smaller checks, meaning more material is removed for large checks than for small checks, even on new checkering. My recommendation is to have the 30 LPI just cleaned up to restore the sharp lines. It's actually more work and more tedious, but will take very little material off, and the original look will be maintained.

 

[Jim K]

The difference is that you really can't cut stock checkering too deep, where with a thin area like the front of the grip on a pistol, it could be possible to cut all the way through.

Jim

 

[Drail]

If 30 LPI checkering isn't gripping your hand well enough then removing every other point isn't going to help at all. Especially if it is worn down. I would either sell the gun or slap some coarse grip tape over it.