Revolver and Wolff springs

[tbeb]

I want to reduce a revolver's double action trigger pull with Wolff springs. Has anyone used these springs on a .38 special or .357 magnum without causing light primer strikes? If so, then what revolver and what is the new weight of the double action trigger pull?

 

[Mike Irwin]

More than 20, actually, probably closer to 30.

All Smith & Wessons, some J frames, mostly K frames, and a couple of N frames.

Trigger pulls have been lighter, but I haven't bothered to measure them.

 

[E357]

I really like Wolf's selection of trigger returns springs. Usually the mainsprings work well, but every once in a while one will be too light. Don't throw out the old mainsprings; if you want to experiment you can remove a little metal to lighten them up (grind lengthwise, then polish) for future use.

Elliot

 

[Old Fuff]

There is a lot more to having a reliable, lighter action then just changing a couple of springs. You need to check the revolvers headspace and firing pin protrusion, and in particular you have to be sure the cylinder doesn't have any end-shake (back & forth movement as opposed to rotational movement when the cylinder is locked). You can sometimes see substantial improvement in the action's smoothness by doing nothing more then dry-fire it.

The factory springs are deliberately made on the heavy side it insure reliability even under the most adverse conditions. By substituting lighter ones you remove some or all of this built-in safety factor.

This is not to say that you can't do it, or that you shouldn't do it, but rather that you'd better know what you're doing.

 

[Brad Johnson]

Good experiences with Wolff

I've used Wolff springs in every Ruger SP101 and GP1xx that I've ever owned, all with excellent results. It's the closest thing to a "Trigger Job In A Box" that I've found. The $15 cost for the complete spring kit makes it that much more appealing.

Brad

 

[ChuckB]

I replaced the trigger and hammer springs in my Taurus 85UL. I ended up putting the original hammer spring back in due to many FTF's. I do like the Wolf replacement for the trigger spring, though. It's the heavier of the two replacement springs in the kit. Defense lawyers would stongly advise against making your trigger pull too light.

Chuck

 

[MR.G]

Have put Wolf springs in at least a dozen guns, mostly S&W revolvers. In S&W K or L frames I usually use the standard tension Power Rib mainspring with either an 11 or 12 pound reduced tension rebound. Makes the trigger pull a little lighter, and smoother. I also do some polishing while in there, especially to the rebound block surface and edges.I don't touch the sear. Have not had any problems with light strikes using those springs, although I keep my guns really clean inside and out. Wolf also makes a reduced power mainspring, which I used in one gun. Pull was even lighter with the reduced power, and there were no light strikes. I just don't feel comfortable with a reduced power hammer spring in my gun.

 

[Standing Wolf]

I've never had a problem with a Wolff spring. I doubt I ever will.

 

[Blueduck]

I've got Wolff rebound springs in all 4 of my S/W revolvers. Does seem to help the pull out a bit (no measuring device, sorry). I've always ordered the "Spring pack" from Brownells so I have a nice selection to try out. Some guns feel great to me with a 12-13# rebound spring while others might need a 14-15# spring to give me a solid enough reset to feel comfortable with.

As for main spring I've tried the Wolff "Standard" ribbed mainspring which is advertised as giving much improved results. No light strikes but honestly can't tell any difference between it and a stock spring weight wise, in fact stacking seems worse on the Wolff unit which is supposed to be the main thing it improves

I would note once I got smooth triggers on all my guns absolute weight seemed much less important to me. I might suggest getting Jerry Miculeks "Trigger Job" video. $20 tape and $25 in stones has made a huge differerence in all my guns.

 

[Tom C.]

I have used Wolff spring kits on Ruger single action and double action revolvers and S&W double action revolvers. The Ruger Blackhawks are easy to work on and nearly immune to problems. The Redhawk needs a reasonable spring to get reliable double action ignition. I use the 14 lb spring for the Redhawk. With the S&W N frame guns, I use the Wolff flat mainspring and play a little with the tension screw. The Model 27 was easy, the Model 25 required more care. If you don’t support the .45 acp cases with clips, then you may need a little more spring tension to get reliable ignition.

 

[Tamara]

I have Wolff springs in my PC13, 19, 57, 296, 629, 640, 686... I think that's all...

They work great; I usually have the installation done by my local 'smith as part of a comprehensive workover when I buy the gun.

 

[bountyhunter]

If so, then what revolver and what is the new weight of the double action trigger pull?

Two model 66 and two model 686. Using the Wolff reduced power mainspring and rebound spring (without any action job), you should see the DA pull weight drop to about 8 1/2 to 9 pounds. With polishing, drop another pound or so. I sometimes dial down the rebound spring a bit farther, so I have a 6 1/2# DA pull and about 2 1/2 SA on most of my comp guns.

BTW, the new guns with the frame mounted FP require a bit more hammer force to light reliably. On my older 686, I have dialed the DA pull down as low as 5.2# and still had reliable DA firing with good ammo. If you run into some ammo with stiff primers, you may get a misfire with the reduced power springs. pretty rare.

 

[JoeHatley]

I've installed Wolff reduced power mainsprings and 11# return springs in everyone of my S&W revolvers (well over a dozen). No problems with any of them. In fact... I wouldn't own a revolver that didn't go Bang every time.

I love their springs!!! Especially since I've started shooting almost excusivly double action.

Joe

 

[bountyhunter]

I've installed Wolff reduced power mainsprings and 11# return springs in everyone of my S&W revolvers (well over a dozen). No problems with any of them.

That was the song I sang until just recently: bought a case of UMC brand new ammo and had two "clicks" in the first box with my 66 with the Wolf RP spring. Fired on the second strike. I increased the spring force abtouch (shim) and no more problems. I had shot thousands of rounds without a problem prior to that. There actually is a reason the springs come as strong as they do (stock). That's what it takes if you want 100% reliability.

 

[MR.G]

Correct me if I am wrong, but the tension of the rebound spring should have nothing to do with light strikes. The rebound is for trigger return. The main spring controls the hammer tension. A reduced tension mainspring could cause light strikes with some primers, especially in dirty or tight guns.

 

[Old Fuff]

The rebound slide in a Smith & Wesson revolver does two things:

(1) It pushes the trigger forward after it has been pulled.

(2) As the name suggests, it "rebounds" or pushes the hammer backward so that the firing pin does not rest on a fresh primer, and blocks the hammer at the bottom so that it can't be pushed back against the now-loaded cartridge that has turned to be alined with the barrel.

In post-World War Two guns it also controls the movement (up and down) of the hammer block that engages the hammer just under the firing pin when the hammer is at rest.

With a too-light rebound spring the trigger may be slowed during its return and if the shooter tries to pull the trigger again too soon the gun will tie up and jam. Also if the spring is too weak it may not be able to rebound the hammer because of pressure on it caused by the mainspring.

Various springs have to be "in balance" with each other too do they're respective functions right.

However you are right in saying that a light rebound slide spring will not cause light hits and misfires.

 

[Okiecruffler]

I've got a Wolff trigger spring in my Taurus 650, and it made the trigger pull quite a bit better. I also had the hammer springs in and they made the trigger pull very sweet. Unfortunately, the gun had a tendancy to go BANG, BANG,click,click,BANG. So the factory hammer spring had to go back in.

 

[tbeb]

Thanks for all the replies. (I don't need any more because I purchased a custom revolver.)