Revolver water intrusions...ever thought about it?

Status
Not open for further replies.

Richard.Howe

Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2003
Messages
887
OK, so I'm going to spend two weeks in the bush, and I need to pick a sidearm. No bear or zombie territory, thankfully.

My choice is between my hard-chromed 1911 and my Smith 686 4". I am inclined toward the 686...however, if the gun gets wet, and stays that way for a day or two, what's the likelihood that water will make its way into the guts of the revo? Consequence?

If this happened to my 1911, I would just tear it apart in the field, dry every part, lube it, and throw it back together.

Since this is considerably more difficult on something like the Smith, should I stick with an auto?

Thanks,
Rich
 
Being stainless I don't think I'd worry too much about the 686. I would tho perhaps (special circumstances) if wet/soaked - consider some WD40 thru from cocked hammer opening. Even then - I would not expect anything to sieze or quit functioning and also - start the trip with inards lubed adequately (bit not to excess).

I do NOT normally want WD40 near my guns but - here we have a very efficient water displacer - and after the trip, a better flush and clean can be done - with a relube to follow.

I'd be probably more happy with my 686 than a semi overall. But knowing me - I'd tote both! :p
 
Which one do you shoot better? Which one is more comfortable to carry? That is the criteria I would use to make the decision if it were me, but then I wouldn't head out without a rifle as primary gun if it were me.......
 
Take the stocks/grips off, remove the cylinder/crane assmebly, remove the side plate and you can do 98% of the cleaning and lubing without removing any other parts.
Water will get into the internals, but if you haven't dropped it in the mud I really wouldn't worry to much about a SS revolver being wet for a few days.
 
A 686 is a cream puff to disassemble. I think it's easirer than 1911.
Three screws and its almost at parade rest.
Don't let that be a determining factor in buying the gun.
Most of the S&W 686 inerts are also stainless where the chrome plated 1911 probably are not.
Not a whole lot of stuff can into the S&W unless you drop it in the sand, and then it would be an easy disassembly I would think.
 
I have a friend in socom....

He insists the SEALS use the s&w 686 in high moisture conditions with lots
of silt. Second the recommendation for wd-40 for water displacement.
Not much use for anything else though..... (wd-40).
 
I think that the difference between the two is that I can strip the 1911 to it's very last piece with virtually no tools required. OTOH, unless I'm carrying a specific screwdriver I'm NOT getting access under the sideplate of the 686 in da boonies....

Having said all of that, I'd take the 686. Nothing that you can throw at it in the way of moisture is gonna stop it from working - unless the moisture freezes. I've packed one in springtime monsoon rains for weeks on end, and it functioned when needed and suffered no internal issues from having done so.
 
115,
You are dead on about the Seal Teams using the 686. With the advent of polymer, I'm not sure if they are still doing it but I know the the guys in the teams were using them for quite some time for the same reasons that most wheelgun fans choose. Durability and function under the absolute worst of curcumstances.
Doc
 
The comment about the Ruger is actually a good one. It's the only revolver I know of that can literally be field-stripped with only the rim of a cartridge...you don't even need a screwdriver to take the grips off.

Unless you plan to actually seek out opportunities for the gun to ingest solid matter, I think you will be OK with either the 1911 or the 686, however.
 
...if the gun gets wet, and stays that way for a day or two, what's the likelihood that water will make its way into the guts of the revo? Consequence?

I'd assume if the outside gets very wet, some of the water is going inside. I wouldn't worry about it in a stainless steel gun for a week or two.
 
The internals of a S&W are accessible from the grip opening.
Just remove the grips shake out the water. Re-lube if needed.

Modern revolvers especially stainless ones are extremely water resistant.
 
The comment about the Ruger is actually a good one. It's the only revolver I know of that can literally be field-stripped with only the rim of a cartridge...you don't even need a screwdriver to take the grips off.

While this is true, the Ruger has its own disassembly problems. You see there are these tiny springs and plungers that make the small parts function in the fire control group, trigger, hand, bolt stop, and if one touches the trigger in the wrong way or just gets unlucky the springs and plungers can go flying, and if that were to happen in the bush, the gun would become a paper weight. But with both the ruger and the smith a can of brake cleaner and a little clp can clean out any stuff pretty well without taking the gun apart.

Of course this resident of the bush has his own time tested favorite:
 

Attachments

  • chimp glock.jpg
    chimp glock.jpg
    16.6 KB · Views: 632
Before you go put a thin layer of wax between your grips and the frame, it will keep water from sitting in there and causing rust. SS will rust. I had it happen during a Canoe trip and I did not even get the gun wet.
 
the Ruger has its own disassembly problems. You see there are these tiny springs and plungers that make the small parts function

That's very true, but in most circumstances rising/spraying with lube, kero, even clear water in an emergency, will clear most grit & gunk. Obviously not optimal, but workable in a field emergency.
 
Unless you have a bunch of stainless mags, I'd go with the Smith if water is likely. A rusted mag is going to be more of a concern than the risk of rust on the internals of a stainless revolver.

Personally, I have always preferred a revolver for the camping/backpacking scenario. While speedloaders are nice, they aren't necessary for the gun to function. Mags on the other hand...
 
Zip Lock Bag

Might not this idea affect rapidity of deployment?

Hold on a sec, Mr. mountain lion. I gotta get my purdy Smith outta this here ziploc...

:neener:

I guess my main worry was about how tough it might be to get the water back out once I returned home. I can get down to every last nook, cranny, and spring clearance in the 1911, but I'm not so sure that the 686 lockwork is so friendly to "invasive remediation"...
 
Well Mr. Richard Howe, it's time for you to get intimate with the internals of your M686. You say you have no problems going inside of your 1911 so it's not that you lack the ability. You just have to get the information on your revolver and take care of it like you do your pistol.
 
I guess my main worry was about how tough it might be to get the water back out once I returned home. I can get down to every last nook, cranny, and spring clearance in the 1911, but I'm not so sure that the 686 lockwork is so friendly to "invasive remediation"...
Two choices IMO - much as I hate WD40 it is a good water displacer . A large dose of that will probably displace any internals water, followed by a flush with carb cleaner and then modest lube. This would be even better done with sideplate off - if removed in the acknowledged safe manner.

Maybe even easier and more effective - remove grips and place gun on bottom shelf of lowest oven setting you have (200 probably) and let it heat thru - that should evaporate all water even from deepest recesses inside, given enough time - then relube, again with sideplate off if done properly.

Don't forget too the crane components and ejector rod.
 
Well Mr. Richard Howe, it's time for you to get intimate with the internals of your M686

Bingo, you're exactly right. The guts of a revo intimidate the heck out of me, and you just fingered my weakness. The answer is, take the revo but learn out how to tear it down.

Grab gun in bag.

Hmm. If the gun is in a ziplock, then it's probably not on my hip; hence the issues of delay and access. But the baggie idea is a good one if I know beforehand when/if I'm likely to need my pistol (like a hunting arm).

Have a great weekend!
Rich
 
I tried the ZipLock bag thing last summer when we went to the beach and it was a disaster. My 642 got wet, salt water got inside of it, and by the time we got back to the room that night the case hardened parts inside were starting to rust to the point that the trigger could not even be pulled. I had lubed the gun with Tetra grease and it was a complete mess. I had to go buy some Breakfree at Walmart and detail strip it to get it back into action. Huge hassle. The saltwater also etched the aluminum everywhere there was any wear through the anodyzing. The gun looks 50 years old now.

The sad thing is my 642 is still my best choice for a 'beach gun', so I am going to buy some waterproof (200ft rated) bags from Campmor.com and see if they work better.
 
You are dead on about the Seal Teams using the 686. With the advent of polymer, I'm not sure if they are still doing it but I know the the guys in the teams were using them for quite some time for the same reasons that most wheelgun fans choose. Durability and function under the absolute worst of curcumstances.
Doc

Is it okay with mud and sand too?
 
Get yourself a Tilia Foodsaver. You know those vacuum seal machines.

When you make your bag, lay a .014 or larger guitar string (unwound works better than wound) longways in the bag, next to one of the folded edges. Make sure you leave the ends hang out.

Then you vacuum seal your loaded gun inside the bag. It'll usually still fit in an Uncle Mike's nylon holster.

If you need your weapon, grab the bag with one hand, grab the guitar string with the other and pull it to rip open the bag.

Works good for cell phones and other stuff too.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top