gpr
Member
two tricks....a hard pencil eraser works well.....if you have a dremmel tool, try#520 buffer.....gpr
Revolvers are not easy to clean
- Thread starter Gunsmoker
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Stainz
Member
The only evil-bottom-feeder I still have is a Ruger MKII (.22) - and it is a bear to dissassemble, clean, and reassemble. My S&W's are easy... the Brownell's magna-tip S&W screwdriver set is a must (Handle & 4 bits - $16.)
First, if it's a 629, I take off the rubber Hogue .500 Magnum monogrip - and check that strain screw. Next, I remove the yoke screw, release the cylinder, open the cylinder while pulling the yoke - carefully. Next, with a proper chamber-size bronze brush, I dip it into Hoppes #9 and work it from the front, back and forth, through each cylinder - especially if I've played with .44 Russians in that 629. I set it aside - time helps with any solvent. I pass a bore sized bronze brush, also dipped in Hoppes, through the bore - exiting out the front, I get an M16-style double ended brush, using the smaller end above the fc, the larger end elsewhere. Hoppes works well - given some time to 'work' - keep difficult areas wet with it. I scrub the the cylinder face with a nylon - then brass brush, sometimes with 'Breakfree' (applicator tube - not aerosol). Final remnants, as Rexster said, will go with a dab of Semichrome or Flitz in a cotton swipe - and some elbow grease. I dry with lint-free towels or patches, leaving one drop of oil on the cylinder yoke, spread and shared with the cylinder axle end. Use sparingly. I can clean 2-3 revolvers during an hour TV show (Only one, if it's NCIS or House!)... on an older black Italian leather sofa, with the supplies, etc, in a poly tub, and the guns spread over an older shirt. I did this before we were married... my wife just insists that I wear old shirt & pants (All I own!).
My Ruger SA's are also easy, but the SRH I had was a pain... really took a bit. So does the miniature version - my .32 SP101... but it's so much fun, I usually don't mind. It took longer to clean my AMT DAO B-Ups, G21, and, maybe even my wife's now long gone CZ-75. I like revolvers...
Stainz
First, if it's a 629, I take off the rubber Hogue .500 Magnum monogrip - and check that strain screw. Next, I remove the yoke screw, release the cylinder, open the cylinder while pulling the yoke - carefully. Next, with a proper chamber-size bronze brush, I dip it into Hoppes #9 and work it from the front, back and forth, through each cylinder - especially if I've played with .44 Russians in that 629. I set it aside - time helps with any solvent. I pass a bore sized bronze brush, also dipped in Hoppes, through the bore - exiting out the front, I get an M16-style double ended brush, using the smaller end above the fc, the larger end elsewhere. Hoppes works well - given some time to 'work' - keep difficult areas wet with it. I scrub the the cylinder face with a nylon - then brass brush, sometimes with 'Breakfree' (applicator tube - not aerosol). Final remnants, as Rexster said, will go with a dab of Semichrome or Flitz in a cotton swipe - and some elbow grease. I dry with lint-free towels or patches, leaving one drop of oil on the cylinder yoke, spread and shared with the cylinder axle end. Use sparingly. I can clean 2-3 revolvers during an hour TV show (Only one, if it's NCIS or House!)... on an older black Italian leather sofa, with the supplies, etc, in a poly tub, and the guns spread over an older shirt. I did this before we were married... my wife just insists that I wear old shirt & pants (All I own!).
My Ruger SA's are also easy, but the SRH I had was a pain... really took a bit. So does the miniature version - my .32 SP101... but it's so much fun, I usually don't mind. It took longer to clean my AMT DAO B-Ups, G21, and, maybe even my wife's now long gone CZ-75. I like revolvers...
Stainz
Cosmoline
Member
The SRH and SP's are incredibly easy to clean. I can clean one as quickly as a semi. You have ONE (1) screw to remove, then take out the spring assembly, hammer, pop off the trigger assembly, pull out the cylinder and spray all the parts with mpro cleaner. Scrub out the bore and cylinder with a bristle brush on a short wand, follow with a patch through the same. Wipe off excess cleaner, coat with CLP if desired, sitck the clyinder back in, pop the trigger assembly back in, stick the hammer back in , stick the mainspring back in, pull back the trigger remove the peg and you're in bidness. Easy as kiss my hand. You can do it anywhere you have a screwdriver or coin.
RustyHammer
Member
Lead Away .... once you use it, you'll never use anything else. Cleans like magic.
Liberal amounts of Marvel Mystery Oil and Mobil1. Usually I mix up small amounts of the two and soak down heavy deposits. I let it sit for several minutes, maybe take a brass brush to the cylinder face, one or two patch passes through the bore and cylinder. Then I wipe it down and sometimes lube it up with a little CLP in key spots.
Generally I clean after every range use, but I don't sweat it if I miss a time or two.
Generally I clean after every range use, but I don't sweat it if I miss a time or two.
daniel (australia)
Member
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2002
- Messages
- 338
I've just given mine a going over, and it really is no drama. I use aerosol brake cleaner to do most of the work, helped where necessary by a toothbrush. I do the bore and chambers with Hoppes No. 9 and a nylon brush, followed by a couple of patches, then lubricate the inside, wax the outside with carnauba wax and I'm done.
PaladinX13
Member
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2002
- Messages
- 747
Is there a GP100 take down with pictures (not just illustrations like the manual) online somewhere? I've put hundreds of rounds through it but have never taken it apart....
DawgFvr
Member
Yup...join the Ruger forum: http://www.rugerforum.net/
and request a copy of Iowegan Book of Knowledge on the GP100.
and request a copy of Iowegan Book of Knowledge on the GP100.
sm
member
Gun Cleaning 101
1. Kids, especially teenagers are great for cleaning guns and reloading ammo.
Keeps them from borrowing the car and needing a Twenty to go to the mall.
2. Those being introduced to shooting, new shooters, even the wife, husband, kids seeing the new gun in the family, learn about guns by cleaning them.
This is why wives hand their new guns to husbands to clean, they want hubby to be familiar with it.
3. Hand gun to gunsmith and let them clean it.
In the meantime drink gunsmith's coffee, sodas, eat any junk food...
I also like to work all this off by going out back and shooting guns they have worked on, or built to assist in checking out.
See? Gun Cleaning ain't hard if'n you know how.
My Mentors had me clean their guns, and when a new gun was bought, I of course had to learn about it, which meant cleaning it.
Mentors and I would go hang out at Gunsmiths, and drink, eat, and shoot.
Didn't matter if we had a gun being worked on or not, we just showed up and made ourselves at home.
I'm just passing forward as passed to me.
1. Kids, especially teenagers are great for cleaning guns and reloading ammo.
Keeps them from borrowing the car and needing a Twenty to go to the mall.
2. Those being introduced to shooting, new shooters, even the wife, husband, kids seeing the new gun in the family, learn about guns by cleaning them.
This is why wives hand their new guns to husbands to clean, they want hubby to be familiar with it.
3. Hand gun to gunsmith and let them clean it.
In the meantime drink gunsmith's coffee, sodas, eat any junk food...
I also like to work all this off by going out back and shooting guns they have worked on, or built to assist in checking out.
See? Gun Cleaning ain't hard if'n you know how.
My Mentors had me clean their guns, and when a new gun was bought, I of course had to learn about it, which meant cleaning it.
Mentors and I would go hang out at Gunsmiths, and drink, eat, and shoot.
Didn't matter if we had a gun being worked on or not, we just showed up and made ourselves at home.
I'm just passing forward as passed to me.
Tom C.
Member.
For me, the big break through came when it occurred to me to use an electric hand drill to clean the chambers in the cylinder. Now things go much quicker. I use a bronze brush on the cylinder face.
TallPine
Member
FWIW, an empty .357 case with a slight "bell" (flare) on the case mouth works good for scraping out the buildup in the cylinder from firing .38 special.
An oversize chamber brush helps too (about .40 caliber).
Not to mention an air compressor and blow nozzle.
An oversize chamber brush helps too (about .40 caliber).
Not to mention an air compressor and blow nozzle.
For me, the big break through came when it occurred to me to use an electric hand drill to clean the chambers in the cylinder. Now things go much quicker. I use a bronze brush on the cylinder face.
__________________
Tom
+1 Reeeeeeeeeezzzzzzzt each cylinder.
I use a .35 caliber bronze rifle brush as they are longer and, for some reason, cheaper.
__________________
Tom
+1 Reeeeeeeeeezzzzzzzt each cylinder.
I use a .35 caliber bronze rifle brush as they are longer and, for some reason, cheaper.
sm
member
Along the same idea...
File teeth with a triangle needle file on case mouth, to bust through as well.
.38spl in .357
.44spl in .44 mag.
rnr4me
Member
Good point!! The lead-away cloth cleans stainless very well, but it does remove blueing. I'm not sure on the black matte. I wouldn't like to trust it.
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