Rifle finishes

TSchwab25

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Jan 29, 2021
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I want to have some kind of finish put on a blued x-bolt, to keep it from rusting. I've looked at cerakote a lot but it would not protect the bore, so I'm not sure what to use instead. I've seen melonite coatings but I've heard that it changes the hardness of the steel which I don't want either. What other options are there? Is having stainless the only other real option to protect the bore?
 
Are you concerned more with storage or field protection?

At different times I've had guns Parkerized, Cerakoted, electroless nickeled and hard-chromed. If the brushed stainless look is OK, hard chrome is usually my preferred finish.

Martinis.jpg HandEjectorCerakote.jpg BobsColt1903.jpg K31ChargingHandle02.jpg

Broadly speaking, aftermarket finishes are intended for protecting exterior metal surfaces -- places in contact with sweaty hands. While very thin, these finishes are usually too thick for closely fitted parts, unless those parts were dimensioned for the finish thicknesses from the start.

Internal bore finishes (chrome, nitriding, etc.) are discussed in this video interview with Nathaniel at Faxon:



FWIW, you can find rifle bores that are still in amazingly good condition from the black powder and corrosive primer eras. This was because their owners had taken maintenance seriously.

Personally I use Ballistol because it has a proven track record over more than a century, is non-toxic and smells nice. I keep reusable silica gel absorbent packs in my gunsafes. I store my rifles in silicone-impregnated knit wraps (Sack-ups). I take my guns out of the safe and inspect them frequently, and clean and oil after every use.

It helps a lot to live in a dry climate, however :cool:
 
I want to have some kind of finish put on a blued x-bolt, to keep it from rusting. I've looked at cerakote a lot but it would not protect the bore, so I'm not sure what to use instead. I've seen melonite coatings but I've heard that it changes the hardness of the steel which I don't want either. What other options are there? Is having stainless the only other real option to protect the bore?
Elbow® Grease . . .
 
I use wax. Invisible, waterproof, sweat proof, easily applied and reapplied, removal not required, does not evaporate or migrate. It can be applied to all metals, wood and even inside the bore. It can be left matte or buffed to a high gloss.

It won’t, cover the blueing with some hideous tan color, ruin clothing, stink or soften wood stocks.

There is no environment less forgiving than my pants pocket. Wax keeps my blued P-32 clean and functional.
 
There's nothing that will protect a gun's bore except proper maintenance. I've had my rifles out in horrible weather, and raining so hard I needed to carry them muzzle down to avoid all the rain down the bore. Once back at camp, or home I sprayed down the outside and wiped them dry. Then cleaned the bore and put dry patches through, followed by a lightly oiled patch. My old hunting rifle is a blued steel barrel, and bore is still like new after 40 years of all sorts of conditions. I do take the whole gun apart once I'm home to clean any dirt or moisture that gets between wood stocks and the action.
Stainless steel used in guns is a very low quality stainless, and for good reason too. If it was high grade stainless it would be extremely hard to machine, and the stainless parts working against each other in friction areas would gall the metal over time. So makers use lower grade SS to keep things working smoothly.
Take a magnet to pure stainless and it wont stick. Do that to a stainless gun and it sticks great.
 
I have a blued rifle that I've owned for 60 years. I own shotguns that my great-grandfather owned in the 1800's and others near 100 years old. They have some minor surface imperfections but it doesn't hurt a thing. In fact they add character to the guns that I couldn't get any other way. There is nothing prettier than a well used and well worn gun with the blue worn off from honest use.

I can understand the concern with a military weapon that is going to be used and very likely submerged in salt water. But for a hunting rifle you're over-thinking this. You can use paste wax to protect the exterior and an oily patch run down the bore will prevent rust there unless you let the gun sit for months before cleaning it after it gets wet.

Great-Grandaddy's shotgun. It's still works perfectly.

IMG_1552.JPG
 
I'm more concerned about whats on the inside of the gun rusting, unless I take it apart and oil it after everyday when I get done hunting. For the bore I will probably just have to oil the bore after I hunt during the rain, and I think I might just get it cerakoted to protect everything else for the most part.
 
To protect the bore you need to watch the type of ammo you put through your guns, keep them clean & lubed. As for types of ammo to not shoot is no BiMetal rounds & if you shoot corrosive desalt it & thoroughly clean right away.
 
I can’t imagine paying a premium for a blued Browning rifle, just to strip it and have it painted.

I probably would have bought the Hells Canyon version and saved this headache, plastic and paint won’t rust, of course keeping in mind that…
unless I take it apart and oil it after everyday when I get done hunting.
…I will still have small springs and pins that will become damaged with corrosion from the caustic aerosol that is our atmosphere.

There is no such thing as “maintenance-free”. A very small amount of effort can keep a rifle pristine, no ceramic paint necessary.
 
Now, I’m not against coated or color enhanced firearms. I just think it’s a waste on what I remembered to be a relatively new rifle. I am more likely to sell a beautiful rifle to get a sturdy one, than deface a gorgeous blue. But I understand that not every human is this way. It may mean more to you in other ways than the blue does, I don’t mean to slight your preferences. I was a bit flippant before, you have my apologies.

Thinking more about the coating aspect and not like a “preservative” layer, I think ferritic nitride is great, but it isn’t a coating. If it’s an option, it’s what I buy, and have bought.
Phosphate is not in my vocabulary.

DLC is the gorilla in the room when speaking of firearms coatings. The Diamond Like Coating is actually a thin, molecules thick, layer of material that smooths surfaces and is more lubricious. As well as a number of other significant positive attributes, rust inhibition is one.
Here is a link with general information about the material, realizing there are more than a few companies with proprietary products.


It reads a bit strange, but I figured it’s just because they’re from Arizona. It’s a rather informative site.

I have heard that a CeraKoted bolt riding in a DLC’d barreled action is smoother than Barry White on QuaiLudes, but I don’t know anything about that.
Because of the aforementioned Nitrided parts, and I haven’t had anything yet DLCoated, I like Barry White just fine.

(I don’t know, I don’t know, I don’t know why…Can’t get enough, Nitride, Babe!):D
 
I have never had a stainless steel gun do anything more than have a slight stain that was easily removed. Blued guns I have that were heavily used show rust, pitting and worn bluing. Some of it is patina and some of it is just ugly. I am a simple person, I prefer stainless steel.
 
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