Ruger No. 1--Best vintage??

[Cosmoline]

OK, I'm willing to give the No. 1 ONE MORE TRY. The last two have been lemons. Both were fairly recent manufacture. I have a chance on a 1A in 7x57 made in the early 80's. I always hear people say the older No. 1's were much better. Was the early '80's before or after quality control started dropping off on the No. 1's?

 

[Gewehr98]

Newer ones have different triggers...

From what I was told about my recent-model No1S. Also, the .45-70 No1S has a shorter rifling throat than it used to, so you can't seat those 500gr bullets out quite as far as you could with the earlier models.

 

[nextjoe]

I'm not an expert on the No. 1, but my gunsmith is. He tells me the very earliest No. 1s, which have the breech blocks serial numbered to the rifle, are some of the best guns ever to come out of an American factory. I *think* they were made in the late 60s.

Ruger used subcontracted barrels in those days, which sometimes shoot and sometimes won't. My gunsmith said they were "the best $7 barrels in the world," which is NOT a compliment. What made the early guns so much better is the degree of finish work. They were hand-fitted, and the parts were very nicely finished. The stocks were also hand-finished. Triggers were better, too.

So, if you want a really nicely-finished one, look for an early one. But, you can't count on it being a good shooter. I'm hunting for an early numbered-block gun myself, and I'm planning on having it rebarrelled with a Wells cut-rifled barrel in .303 British. I'll see how it shoots and, if necessary, have a set-screw added to the forearm hanger. It should be a fun project.

Best,
Joe

 

[tex_n_cal]

Hmm...owning four of them....

The really primo wood largely disappeared in the late 70's - though in the early 90's I saw a #1B in the Swift that was stark raving gorgeous. If someone in San Angelo, TX still has it, I'll buy it.

My newest one dates to the late 70's...I have two #1-B's 200th year model, both of which shoot very well. The .300 will make velocities more like a .300 Weatherby.

The .375 is a tough kicker, but pretty accurate with preferred loads. With light loads it's a one hole rifle

All #1's tend to be sensitive to how they are rested. The #1-B's to me seem the least fussy, though my #1-V in .22-250 with shoot very well.

What caliber do you want?

 

[stevelyn]

My girlfriend gave me a Ruger #1 RSI in .30-06 for Christmas 2001. I guess I'm lucky because it prints a 1" - 1 1/2" three shot group @ 100 yds which about as well as I can hold it with iron sights. With a fouled barrel, it will drill holes where I point it. It has one moose to it's credit on it's maiden hunting trip and looking to add another in about 45 days and counting. My only complaint (and it's not even a real complaint) is the trigger needs a little tweeking.

Gewehr98,

Could a gunsmith open up the throat a little?

 

[Bob C]

My #1 in .243 Winchester was made in 1982, and it will average under 1" for three rounds at 100 yards with Sierra 100 grain spitzers, either boat tail or flat base, and RE-22.

With lighter bullets it opens up a bit, but still stays under 1.25" for three rounds at 100 yards.

 

[CARSON]

I have a #1-v in .22-250 that will shoot 4/10" 3 shot groups and 6/10" 5 shot groups with 55 grain CT Ballistic Silvertip. I cannot get it to open past 1" with the factory ammo I have tried. I was thinking of an Encore, but the one I looked at did not compare in fit and finish. My father's buddy has one he bought new 15 years ago in 300 WM and it shoots 1 1/2" with just about any factory ammo he has tried. I like them so much I am planning on buying a #1-RSI for next deer season.