Ruger RPR Modifications/Upgrades

[Chuck R.]

RPR Guys,

What mods IF any have you made??

When I purchased mine last year ( 1st GEN in .243) my intent was to start modifying it right away and basically just keep the action as I wanted a chassis type rifle I could rebarrel myself. I got the rifle on sale for a little over $900 delivered, but I wasn't enamored with the .243 and really wanted a 6.5C. After putting 900+ rounds downrange in the .243 I'm sold on the 6mm concept for LR and am no longer interested in another 6.5. The only modification I've done to date is adding a Hellfire muzzle break.

This winter/spring is my upgrade the RPR season. It was supposed to this summer, but a new AR build got in the way. Next I'm ditching the trigger, and switching to a Timney. As decent as the RPR trigger is, I can't stand the "dingus" thingy on a precision rifle and I really prefer a 2-stage which my other rifles have. Then a new Seekins forearm.

Next is the barrel and I'm looking at a custom chambered in 6mm "Super Long Range" basically a .243 with the shoulder pushed back to create a longer neck and 30 degree shoulder. Powder capacity is slightly less than a regular .243. Brass is formed by simply running standard .243 brass into the FL die and the chamber is cut for WIN and REM brass (= cheap).

Anybody else making changes??

Chuck

 

[Dill]

I put a new grip on mine to match my other rifles. I might do a different stock, the OEM one seems to snag your clothes pretty easily, and that bugs me a little. Mine is a .308 and I'm extremely happy with it, so likely no other changes here.

 

[Citadel99]

I switched out the stock to the MagPul PRS.

Mark

 

[Gtscotty]

I've been very happy with mine, I thought I was going to change out the stock not long after buying it, but it actually works well for me.

The only real mods I'm planning:

Replace barrel: I've got a little under 1,300 rds on my factory 6.5 barrel, and I figure I'll probably wind up changing it between 2,000 - 2,500 (even if it doesn't need it, I've got an itch to have an aftermarket barrel spun on). I'm 99% sure I'll stick with 6.5 CM as it does everything I need well and there are getting to be tons of options for brass, bullets and ammo. If I went with another caliber it would be one of the 6mm options, probably either 6mm Creedmoor or 6mm Dasher. I might try a 26" barrel for kicks, I don't really wind up shooting the RPR suppressed that much, and don't tote it around except during PRS type matches, maybe a little extra barrel would be worth the bulk.

Metal bolt shroud: I have the Gen 1 plastic shroud, and it really hasn't given me and problems at all. That said, I kind of want a metal shroud, I've been meaning to pick up the Ruger factory aluminum shroud, but keep forgetting.

Magpul grip: I like them a bit better than the factory, they are cheap so why not?

 

[Chuck R.]

I switched out the stock to the MagPul PRS.

Mark

Mark how do you like the PRS? That's one of the things I'm looking at.

Gtscotty,

Mine's still got the plastic shroud too, it's one of those "get around to it" things cause it works. The Magpul grip was the 1st change, I didn't even fire a shot with the standard grip on it. Got to used to having eh Maguls on my ARs.

Chuck

 

[Nature Boy]

The Hellfire brake was a good choice.

I have one on my custom rifle.

 

[Citadel99]

I really like the PRS. With the Gen 3 you don’t need a new buffer. It’s a little heavier but a more solid platform than the stock one. Adjustments are easy for changing positions.

 

[Chuck R.]

The Hellfire brake was a good choice.

I have one on my custom rifle.

Agreed, I really like not having to time it and the quick removal for cleaning. Very well made and it's got me looking at their other products.

Chuck

 

[ZGunner]

The only thing I did to my 6.5 is change out the grip and add a vertical forgrip.

The the pistol grip I went with a BCM Mod 3 for the decreased angle. It more comfortable to me when shooting from all positions.

People sort of laugh at my vertical grip. It's a stubby BCM grip that makes it easier for me to make a shot offhand and acts as a stop if I'm bracing on a barricade. It looks goofy on a precision rifle but it's nice when you aren't shooting off a bench or are carrying it.

My only future plans are getting a good bipod. Right now I've got a Caldwell, which has been working fine but I'd like something more robust.

 

[wahsben]

The changes I made on my Gen 1 RPR are the following: Bartlein 26" barrel and Mad Scientist Muzzle brake from Josh at Patriot Valley Arms, Seekins Precision RPR handguard, Anarchy outdoors titanium bolt shroud with bolt disassembly tool, Timney flat blade RPR trigger, ATI X1 grip and Catalyst Arms RPR Mag magazine release.

 

[Chuck R.]

The changes I made on my Gen 1 RPR are the following: Bartlein 26" barrel and Mad Scientist Muzzle brake from Josh at Patriot Valley Arms, Seekins Precision RPR handguard, Anarchy outdoors titanium bolt shroud with bolt disassembly tool, Timney flat blade RPR trigger, ATI X1 grip and Catalyst Arms RPR Mag magazine release.

Did you get the Bartlein barrel from PVA????

Chuck

PS: Had mine out back this morning (literally off back deck) fireforming some brass. Even with new FL brass, it will hold 1 MOA or better, prone out to 547ys (from my back porch I have swingers @ 407 & 547y). The RPR really is a lot of rifle for the money.

 

[GarySTL]

I have a Gen 1 in 6.5CM and love it. Recently changed the trigger to the Timney 2 stage and it's a great trigger. Midway had them on sale for $175 and it's a bargain. My Gen 1 had no muzzle brake so I added the Little Bastard and an Atlas bi-pod and their rear monopod. Great shooting rifle.

 

[wally]

My Gen 1 RPR in .308 I plan to leave as is, any upgrades will be better ammo -- doing fine based on my current skill level (shooting 1 moa at 400 yards when the wind is minimal, reading the wind is a whole 'nother thing!) with Hornady 155gr Steel Match (~$0.85 per round). Once I've obtained the skill to really need better ammo, I'd consider upgrading the scope from my Primary Arms 4-14x44 FPP R-Grid to something better, especially if I had a place to get significantly longer ranges.

 

[wahsben]

Did you get the Bartlein barrel from PVA????

Chuck

PS: Had mine out back this morning (literally off back deck) fireforming some brass. Even with new FL brass, it will hold 1 MOA or better, prone out to 547ys (from my back porch I have swingers @ 407 & 547y). The RPR really is a lot of rifle for the money.

View attachment 767369

Yes, I did get it from Josh. I've been very pleased with it. I wish I had that much room out my back door to shoot.

 

[Chuck R.]

Quick update.....$1632 dollars later and the upgrades are almost done....... $1265 of it was just getting the new barrel, reamer, gauges, dies etc. There's really not much of the original RPR left......the receiver, the original stock, and the barrel nut.

Upgrades:

Timney 2-stage
Seekins Precision rail
Bartlein 5R barrel

Installed the 26" Bartlein 5R barrel in 6mm SLR this past week. Getting the the old RPR barrel off was a bit of a PITA, but with the right tools it came off without a hitch.

Performed barrel break-in SAT and started the OCW load development Sunday (just 3 shot groups @ 100y) looking for the "nodes". Out of 5 loads, just 1 hovered at MOA and 4 were well under with one 3 shot group going in at .1880. I'm thinking the Bartlein guys know how to make a barrel and it looks like the Southern Precision Rifle guys know how to chamber them. Velocity was in the 2940-3014 FPS range for the loads tested (105 Berger Hybrids), not yet where I want to be which is closer to the 3100 range. No signs for pressure yet, so I've got some room to play.

Going to load up another series via OCW method and see what the result is. Now that I've got a true idea of the headspace I can reform the rest of my .243W brass.

 

[Gtscotty]

Any tips on getting the factory barrel off? Everyone mentions what a pain it is to remove. My 6.5 RPR barrel only has ~1,800 rds through it (haven't had as much time to shoot it as I'd like lately), but I think it's starting to throw occasional fliers. I might be looking at a Proof or Kreiger drop in before too long.

 

[Chuck R.]

I used:

Seekins Precision RPR Action Rod https://www.anarchyoutdoors.com/seekins-precision-ruger-precision-rifle-action-rod/
they actually have a less expensive one now: https://www.anarchyoutdoors.com/action-rod-for-ruger-precision-ruger-american-rifles/
Magpul Armorers wrench
2' Breaker bar (which fits nicely into the Magpul wrench)

1st attempt, my bench and vice couldn't deal with it, both were too lightweight....2nd attempt, went to a friends garage, substantial bench bolted to floor and an impressive vice. Used same technique, two sets of hands; one holding barrel in place, one on wrench/breaker bar and the nut came off. Mechanic friend estimates it's on with about 100+ lbs of torque

 

[Varminterror]

Any tips on getting the factory barrel off?

Seekins RPR action Rod, a Long wrench, a hell-for-stout, heavy work bench and vise, a six pack of light beer, and an overweight friend who likes light beer.

Or better still, get ahold of the gorillas they used to use at Remington to install barrels.

There’s no technique to breaking over-torqued nuts loose. Just leverage and force - lots of both preferred in this case.

 

[Dill]

very nice! I've been thinking about trying a .260 Remington barrel in mine.

 

[Ks5shooter]

Ergo grip with palm shelf,little bastard brake,PRS stock ,oversize "grenade style" bolt handle,Seekings 60 degree throw safety and custom aluminum bolt shroud.....

 

[Chuck R.]

Got out and tried 4 more loads, all 4 shot groups looking for the "nodes". All were shot off the bipod and rear bag, the brass was basically barely sized enough for crush fit, not yet fireformed:

.5405"
.4330"
.3670"
.5325"
.5230"

Broke the 3050 mark with loads 4 & 5./ Couple of pics:

.3670


5 rds just under 2.6" at 307 yards on one of my swingers, prone with rear bag:



So far it's coming along. Still no signs of excessive pressure so I'm going to try one more series chasing the "magic" 3100 FPS. Once I've got formed brass, then it's time to play with OAL, neck tension and larger strings. After that, practice.... tweaking the load is done as far as I'm concerned.