Ruger SP101 .22 Super Sticky Extraction

Status
Not open for further replies.
Why not call Ruger?,,,

Why not call Ruger?,,,
Did you buy the gun new or used?

Let Ruger fix the problem,,,
They always say they will stand behind each and every one.

JMHO

Aarond

.
 
tubeshooter said:
If you have to force them in too, that sounds like tight cylinders. I would test all 8 cylinders; I doubt all 8 are tight, probably just 2 or 3 that are the root of the trouble.
Click to expand...

The revolver only has one cylinder.

But he might want to check the 8 chambers.

.
 
My Brand new SP101 .22 went back to Ruger the day after I bought it. After the 16th shot, the Hammer would not come back with my thumb unless I helped it by rotating the cylinder with the other hand. Double Action worked but that trigger pull was severely heavy this way.

I was so disappointed to have waited and dwelled on the decision for which revolver to buy. Only to have to return it the next day!

I sent it to them 2nd day air on October 18th. It is out for delivery back to me today. I will update you on the results later this afternoon. 17 days round trip paid for by Ruger each way.

A very good friend of mine, A national gun writer suggested that they do not go over every quality aspect of the guns they make. Expecting some to come back for service. The business model is to pay for the shipping and quick turnaround. In the long run that is less expensive then fine tuning every single one. This has become an industry standard. My S&W 44 mag had .428 throats! Dangerously tight for jacketed bullets!

He also suggested that sending it back will get it on the bench of a Ruger Gunsmith. That will in effect be like having a custom shop tune up of the action and trigger. He said it will be the best Trigger you will feel when you get it back.

There was an SP 101 in a shop in Idaho. It was what made my decision to buy this one. It was a " refurbished" model from Ruger. That trigger was outstanding in every way. I actually questioned if it was too good to get consistent ignition!

This unit was some kind of returned pistol and had gone back to Ruger for service. Would have bought that one, but I cannot cash and carry across state lines. So I ordered a new one instead from the local Gun Shop.

If mine comes back like the one I felt in Idaho, S&W triggers will have nothing on this Ruger! If not, I'll sell it this week!
 
Why not call Ruger?,,,
Did you buy the gun new or used?
Click to expand...

Bought it new.

I wanted to try my own hand at fixing a relatively simple problem, but did not want to attempt my own fix until asking opinions on the forum. I was guided correctly, and I've fixed the problem myself already.

If there had been no improvement on this shooting trip, then I would be calling Ruger as you suggest. I really hate shipping my handguns anywhere, and it involves an 80 mile round trip drive to drop them off at FedEx or UPS store. I live in the middle of No and Where.
 
As has been mentioned 460, using a drill motor isn't what I'd use, but a cordless drill is what I use on my Colt Trooper and S&W 15 when I clean it. I use a 40 cal. bronze brush in a c/drill, to clean the cylinder bores. I add Hoppe's to the brush, insert the brush into the cylinder hole, "gently" turn it on, run it the length of the cylinder, about 4 - 5 seconds, go to the next one. "IF" you were to try this with a section of cleaning rod, with a patch and Mother's applied, wouldn't this be a little faster than the Q-tip method? Just asking, your revolver, your solution.
 
As has been mentioned 460, using a drill motor isn't what I'd use, but a cordless drill is what I use on my Colt Trooper and S&W 15 when I clean it. I use a 40 cal. bronze brush in a c/drill, to clean the cylinder bores. I add Hoppe's to the brush, insert the brush into the cylinder hole, "gently" turn it on, run it the length of the cylinder, about 4 - 5 seconds, go to the next one. "IF" you were to try this with a section of cleaning rod, with a patch and Mother's applied, wouldn't this be a little faster than the Q-tip method? Just asking, your revolver, your solution.
Click to expand...

I chose to do it by hand since I have little experience with gun smithing or moding of any kind. I have built an AR, but that is easy and does not involve removing metal in any way. About the only thing I've ever done with modifying componentes to suit me, is hand polish the exteriors of my stainless guns. So I decided not to use a drill, cordless or otherwise. I have no vise, nor a place to set one up, so my fear is that holding the gun in one hand and using a power tool in the other was going to lead to a slip, and a gouge of the metal, or possibly over polishing. I realize now though that I need not worry about the later as much as I was. You would have to get really out of hand polishing for that to be a problem.

To clarify, and I just saw that I did not say this in a previous post, what I did was buy a .22 caliber chamber mop made by Hoppe's. It fit on a standard cleaning rod, and extended the full length of the cyllinder, and it fit firmly. I then applied the Mother's Polish to the mop, inserted into each chamber, and spun it by hand. Each chamber got about 30 seconds of hand turning. I decided this was more efficient and would produce a much more even job than the q-tip method. It appears to have worked fine (it has made a world of difference) and with one more session I suspect it will be a very smooth little operator. Prior to polishing the chambers, I'd leave the woods after shooting with a bunch of little red circles on my hand in several spots that hurt for a few days from where I had to push the heck out of the extractor rod. It was rather unpleasant.

This makes me really happy too, as I really like that little cap gun, and it is very accurate. It will be remaining in my collection now that I have it functioning properly.
 
Last edited:
Step one some .22lrs dont like some ammo, or it could be with the big rush to manufacture ammo you have some that is out of spec. 22lr is ammo with a heeled bullet meaning the bullet overlaps the outside of the case.
Click to expand...

Please read the thread before posting.......

Problem is fixed. I Tried 3 different ammo types. First thing I tried. Same with all ammo.

Rough chambers was the problem. I just wanted to update the thread with the result is all.
 
This seems to be a common problem with .22 revolvers. Most often the chambers, even on S & W's will benefit from a little polishing.
 
Yeah, very glad you got a good resolution.


Also glad my terminological brain fart did not lead you astray. Sorry about that.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

B
  • Locked
SP101 & sticky extraction
Replies
18
Views
3K
Old Fuff
O
whatnickname
  • Locked
Ruger SP101 9MMlast
Replies
12
Views
759
Dan Forrester
D
L
  • Locked
S&W 43c sticky extraction tip
Replies
7
Views
614
halfmoonclip
H
G
  • Locked
Sticky extraction... Why?
Replies
10
Views
874
Old Fuff
O
jski
  • Locked
Ruger SP101 22 gap between yoke and frame
Replies
6
Views
1K
jski
jski
Back
Top