Great buy! Sometimes, in my case, everytime, new Rugers need a little burr/casting flaw clean-up. If it cycles well, and goes click when you pull the trigger after cocking the hammer, it's functional. Most folks assume it is normal for a Vaquero to hit 'low and left'. I have watched others - and caught myself - enfluencing that. If you use the first finger joint, like many do, you naturally pull the trigger 'down & left' - use the last pad of the finger - and pull 'back'.
I never have understood why folks change the hammer spring on a SA. I reprofile the OEM trigger spring, making it fit the trigger notch better. If you want less trigger effort, simply remove the grips and lift one side of the trigger spring's end from the post. Also, a free-spin pawl is not cheap, nor is it fun to 'fit' (They usually need some 'adjustment' - resulting in repeated total dissassemblies.). Just like the aforementioned 'poor man's trigger job', there is a 'poor man's free-spin pawl'. It involves grinding away the inside corner of the pawl's upper tooth - which can be done in situ with a Dremel mounted stone - and some care - and ten minutes. Take a little off at a time - and test - just re-install the cylinder, open the latch, and see if it spins. The majority of the cylinder's movement is effected by the lower tooth on the pawl, you just want the upper tooth to 'miss' the cylinder's teeth at rest. Check out these and more tidbits on the Ruger forum. And... Brownell's carries the parts, too - and a drop-in Super Blackhawk hammer, should you want to change.
Stainz
PS Find out where it actually hits - most .44M loads are so fast that they are relatively flat in trajectory from 25-75 yd - the 'practical' handgun range. Some Vaquero's do hit left and low...
