S&w 625 jm

[Rodentman]

Correct me if I'm wrong, cause it happens a lot, but my understanding is that the JM model 625 is NOT a PC version, and has a "stock" trigger and springs. I know about the grips and the interchangeable front sight.

My query is this: I see a lot of posts regarding changing the springs on this model. Is there something inherently wrong with this model, or is it just that people want to replicate JM's version, which I think has softer springs, needing Fed primers....

Is the strain screw stock on the JM or is it shortened? Won't it run as fine as we can expect from a stock N frame?

I have 1 on order and am hoping to be able to shoot it reliably out of the box without needing to modify the springs or strain screw.

In short, isn't it a reliable N frame or does it have issues?

 

[robctwo]

The 625JM I bought used was stock. I replaced the main spring and rebound spring with Wolff, and slicked it up. I now have an approximation of the PC version. Mine is shooting reliably with a few hundred hand loads with CCI primers.

 

[Smaug]

If my 625 is any indication, you won't have any issues with it. Mine's an older one. Pre-lock, w/5" barrel.

The recoil feels just right to me. Not punishing like my Redhawk with the full-house loads. Not too light, like a 38 Special can feel sometimes.

I think you'll like the moon clip loading system. It is easy to have a whole load of them all loaded up and ready to go. Much cheaper than buying magazines for an auto.

I have a bunch of them, full of empty brass. I'm just putting the finishing touches on the de-mooning tool tonight.

If you don't use moon clips, you'll occasionally find a case that is really hard to pull out. Not possible with fingernails. Most of them come right out. But occasionally...

Anyway, enjoy it and post some pix when you can, both of the gun and some targets.

 

[918v]

I have three PC 625's and they all came with standard springs and screws from the factory.

 

[Japle]

The springs in mine were stock and the action hadn't been worked over.

I did a complete action job, installed the Bang, Inc springs and an extended firing pin. People who try the DA pull can't believe it'll light off primers. It's 100% with properly seated Federal primers, but not with some brands of factory ammo. That's OK, since it's only fired with my handloads.

If you don't do anything else, get the extended firing pin.

 

[ClemY]

I like to play with springs with my new guns to dial in the trigger while I am giving the internal parts a going over. Sometimes the original springs stay. Sometimes the main spring or rebound spring gets swapped out.

 

[Smaug]

John, what does the extended firing pin do?

 

[Japle]

John, what does the extended firing pin do?

It allows you to dial the mainspring tension back considerably without worrying about light strikes.

The pin is only about 10 to 15 thousandths longer than a factory pin, but that’s enough to ensure reliable ignition.

They only cost about $15 and that's cheap insurance, even if you aren't after a super-light pull.

 

[StrawHat]

I am curious about the extended firing pin. Does it fit on the hammer nose or is it mounted in the frame? I know S&W has gone to a frame mounted pin but do not know if it is a general switch or specific models only.

Thanks.

 

[PcolaDawg]

I bought mine and kept it as is and I'm extremely happy with it, fwiw.

 

[Rodentman]

Thanks for the comments. I took the grips off and it appears to have a full length strain screw. I have a couple of spare extended FP's (for my 329PD which needed one). I ordered an S&W rebound slide spring tool, and the Kuhnhausen S&W revolver shop manual. I already have the Brownell's screwdriver set. I am hoping to learn how to work on the S&W revolvers since I have several. Eight I think.

I really need to get a new placemat as this one hasn't done any good:



Gun is totally stock now, but I have a few grip choices, including Pachmayr decellerators. I have a green fiber optic sight on order as well. Haven't yet fired the gun.

BUT I also have a 1917 classic remake in .45 acp and I have shot that a fair amount. I have a lot of .45 acp brass and also a bunch of .45 ar which I really like as well.

I plan to get the 625 to the range this weekend.

 

[Old Fuff]

I ordered an S&W rebound slide spring tool, and the Kuhnhausen S&W revolver shop manual.

Buying the manual was a good move, but be aware that it doesn't cover the newer revolvers that have MIM lockwork, and this can make a difference.

For a look at the insides of the newer guns, go look at the thread posted at the top of THR's revolver sub-forum

 

[wideym]

I picked up a JM 625 a few months ago and couldn't be happier with it except the JM grip. It was too skinny and slick so I replaced it with a Houge Monogrip.

It fires all the major commercial brands of .45acp without a hicup.

 

[Japle]

I am curious about the extended firing pin. Does it fit on the hammer nose or is it mounted in the frame?

It's for the frame-mounted firing pin. As far as I can find out, no one makes one for the older hammer-mounted pins. I wish they did. I have an older M29 that could use one.

 

[StrawHat]

Thanks for the info. I heard S&W went with a frame mounted pin but have never seen one.

As for the long pin on the hammer, a spot of weld and a file should make it happen for you.

 

[Japle]

Yesterday at the range, I did some shooting with my usual handload - 200 gr Berry's HP / 4.2 gr of Clays / Federal primers / Winchester cases - and got these groups.




The groups were shot two-hand standing, so I'm sure the gun is capable of better accuracy.
In the top group, I fired 5 RN bullets and one HP. That's why the one hole looks bigger. The HPs punch a chunk of paper out, whereas the RN slugs don't do that. All six shots in the bottom pic were with HPs.

 

[Rodentman]

Old Fuff, thank you pointing me to that excellent thread.

Japle, where did you get the front sight? Looks like a winner!

 

[Japle]

The front sight is from EasyHit at easyhit.com. They don't list them, but you can order them.

Trouble is, they hardly ever seem to have them in stock. Like now. I've had them on backorder for months.

I love the things, but they're only for competition. Too easy to break in a rough environment.

 

[splithoof]

I have a newer 625, 4". I made it clear to the dealer that I DID NOT WANT a "JM" version with the ugly "JM" tatoo on the side. Why? Can you imagine if your wife had the name of some other guy on her body??? I was fortunate to buy a brand new one in the box, a run that was not in the S&W catalog at the time.
It shoots very well. At 25 yards from sand bags, five shots close to same hole, the sixth just touching, most all types of ammo, factory or my reloads. 100% reliable, brass or steel-cased imports.
I sprung for the Sidearmor Kydex holster, best holster I have ever used for a revolver. Fast to draw, reholster without looking for it, minimal maintenance. Sure, it will burnish the stainless finish on the barrel and underlug, but this is a working gun, not a safe queen. It gets dirty, sometimes wet, but keeps going.
I made some moon clip pouches from modified speedloader cases for fast access to spare rounds, as this seems to me a better/more secure way to carry extra ammo. Crawling through the scrub oak at the ranch won't cause the extra ammo to get lost like it might with "competition" gear.
I would buy this gun again. After thousands of rounds, rough use, and little maintenance, it has proven to be well worth it.

 

[Smaug]

Nice shooting Japle. That's better than half my group size. I need some more practice and maybe a better load. Though I can't bring myself to shoot Clays, knowing how slow it is. I know, it is a dumb prejudice, but it is slow enough so as not to be representative of a full power load.

 

[Japle]

NEWS FLASH!!

EasyHit just sent me an invoice for the front sights, so it looks like they're in stock. They're about $10.

I ordered 4 so I'll have them on hand for the guys at the range who see mine and just have to get one.