S+W 629 Mountain Gun cylinder stuck!

[XxWINxX94]

I have a Smith & Wesson Mountain Gun .45 Colt. After recently shooting and carrying the gun around my summer home, I attempted to push the cylinder switch to unload it. The cylinder switch is completely stationary, and the cylinder will not eject/come out from the firing position. The hammer and trigger work fine, the cylinder also rotates when the hammer/trigger are pulled or operated. It just seems like the cylinder won't come out. I don't recall dropping it or anything odd happening to the gun prior to its current malfunction. I initially thought it was a missing screw found on the opposite side of the gun, near the grip, that you see in the picture. However, this picture is old, and the gun has been functioned/fired multiple times since the picture was taken.

I really don't know what to think or do about this, will most likely bring it to my local gun smith. This really stinks, I love to shoot this gun but now its stuck with empty brass in it.........

Any ideas as to why my cylinder will not come out from the gun?

 

[VA27]

Sounds like the ejector rod has come loose and backed out. It'll be difficult to tighten with the cylinder closed, but it can be done.

You'll have to ease the hammer back to drop the cylinder lock and then press on the knurled end of the rod with your finger or a popcicle stick or the handle of your toothbrush while you turn the cylinder. Be paitent. LEFTY tighty.

Screw it back in enough to get it open and then tighten it down with padded pliers. FILL THE CYLINDER FULL OF EMPTY BRASS TO KEEP FROM MESSING UP THE EJECTOR STAR!!

 

[paul105]

If your gun is loaded, you should take it to a gunsmith for safety reasons. If not and it is a loose ejector rod, then:



Cock the hammer slightly (until the cylinder stop drops down into the frame) and slip a business card into the frame window over the cylinder stop slot, between the cylinder and the frame. This will keep the cylinder stop from engaging the bolt notches so you can turn the cylinder.

With the barrel pointed away from you, hold the ejector rod with your left thumb to keep it from moving while you turn the cylinder counter clock wise. This should allow you to tighten the ejector rod enough to open the cylinder.

Paul

 

[RedAlert]

Common sense tells me that I should never point a loaded gun at myself. Therefore, I'm reading that the above recommendations are "lefty" or "counter clockwise" as viewed from the hammer end of the cylinder. Correct?

 

[paul105]

Yes, absolutely, barrel pointed away from you. I can see how that wasn't completely clear. I edited the above post to clarify.

Paul

 

[Deaf Smith]

Either ejector rod has unscrewed or there is unburnt powder under the star ejector.

Deaf

 

[Guillermo]

gentlemen,

I disagree with the evaluation of this issue.

When a cylinder rod unscrews...the latch will move forward.

The OP says that it is "stationary".

This is an internal problem.

 

[MrBorland]

You go, G!

I agree - that the release latch won't budge forward is a big clue, and suggests something internal. Normally, the back of the rebounded hammer comes very close to blocking the release bolt (see pic I lifted from the web). Could be the back of the hammer is blocking the bolt for some reason. Can the hammer be pushed forward a wee bit? And does it free up the release latch? Might just need a good internal cleaning.


from http://home.tulsaconnect.com/toug/cpf/sw1.JPG

 

[Guillermo]

Mr Borland is a very nice fellow and very intelligent so it is ALWAYS nice to receive kudos from him.

And because of him I will be taking a couple of Model 15s to compete in my first IDPA Stock Service Revolver match.

Maybe one day I will be worthy of carrying his range bag!!!

 

[Old Fuff]

Is there any chance the "missing screw" is floating around inside the action and has found a nest where it can block the cylinder bolt? It has been my experience that screws are where they are for a purpose, and if one is missing strange things can happen - sooner or later.

 

[MrBorland]

Related to the missing screw, I was also thinking maybe some gunk under the rebound slide, effectively increasing hammer rebound just enough to block the release bolt.

I will be taking a couple of Model 15s to compete in my first IDPA Stock Service Revolver match.

Outstanding! My best to you for a fun match!

Maybe one day I will be worthy of carrying his range bag!!!

You're much too modest, G: I'd let you carry my bag right now.

 

[Guillermo]

I'd let you carry my bag right now.

if I could get some coaching out of it I would even walk 3 steps behind and call you "massa"

 

[XxWINxX94]

Thanks for the advice guys. Sorry I meant the gun has SPENT brass in it. There are NO live rounds inside. Terminology confusion, my bad.

I will try to examine the gun closer when I'm back in town, but I don't think I will be tampering with the internals myself. Will let everyone know some details after my smith has seen it.

Thanks

 

[BILLG]

Just one thing it is not a 629 Mountain Gun.The 629 is a 44 magnum.

 

[HKGuns]

Just one thing it is not a 629 Mountain Gun.The 629 is a 44 magnum.

Billg, it says "Mountain Gun" right on the barrel. Mountain Gun is a designation S&W gives to certain model .44 mags. But I don't know what it references other than Stainless and 4" barrel from the one's I've seen, but there may be other differences I'm not aware of on the surface as I've only seen them in the display shelf.

Edit: Gotcha....You were referencing the 29 and not the Mountain Gun....Misread.

 

[BILLG]

If it is .45 Colt caliber IT IS NOT a 629.It is a Mountain Gun but not a 629 Mountain Gun.It is a 625 Mountain Gun.

 

[VA27]

The 'Mountain Gun' name is given to indicate that the gun is lighter in weight than the standard gun. There are 625, 629, 657, and 686 Mountain Guns. The barrels are tapered like the Model 24 and 28 guns. In addition the front of the cylinder is given a bevel treatment.

IIRC, the standard 625/629 gun weighs in at around 44ozs. My 625 weighed 39 ozs, the same weight as a 1911.