S&W J-frame trigger springs ideas, hammer nose firing pin

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bikemutt

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I'd like to tweak my 36-6 J-frame trigger myself, this is a somewhat of a collector piece, I don't want turn it over to someone else. It has the hammer nose firing pin so I don't think the Apex kit will work.

Any other turnkey trigger kits out there I should consider? Or other ideas to smooth and lighten the DA pull?

Thanks
 
Keep in mind that the principal reason for the heavy double-action trigger pull (other then the combined tension of the hammer and trigger springs) is the lack of leverage in the trigger because of its small size and the close alignment of the hammer and trigger studs (pins).

When you are pulling the trigger it must rotate the hammer backwards until it is released. People can polish here and there, but they can't change the basic geometry involved. De-burring the mainspring strut and lightly polishing the inside of the hole in the rebound slide may help make the pull feel smoother, but not make it noticeably lighter.

Changing to lighter springs can make a substantial difference, combined with a likelihood that sometime in the future it will go "click," rather "bang!" :eek:

Two suggestions that you probably won't like:

Try out Ruger's new LCR, that incorporates a better double-action design.

Switch to a S&W K or L frame where the larger trigger has more leverage.
 
Thanks Old Fuff, this one will not see a holster, range only. Occasional failure to ignite is not an issue. Tell me more about springs :)
 
Do you hand load?

Federal primers can be set off with a lighter blow then other brands.
Other wise try and stay with one brand of shells after you modify and test your firearm.

After doing the normal smoothing and polishing of your J frame action.

Buy four or five S&W hammer springs and trigger return springs.

Start by cutting off two coils of the Hammer spring and a coil or two of the return spring. Cut the springs inside a plastic bag, to control the pieces. Deburr the cut springs.
Keep messing around cutting a half a coil at a time until the trigger return is no longer positive and you get miss fires.
Use a fresh set of springs and add a coil or more from where you started to get misfires. You should end up with a reliable pistol with the primers you were using.
 
Occasional failure to ignite is not an issue.

It may be if you are doing a string of rapid double-action shots and get a hang-fire. The cylinder turns and the hammer falls... and 2 shots go off at once. :eek:

Or you get a squib that leaves a bullet stuck in the bore, or between the chamber throat and bore. The first could disable the revolver and/or cause damage to it.

Also I would never adjust an action to the point where dependable ignition (??) required a single make of primers or ammunition - especially at a time when selection is up in the air, and any company can change their component specifications.

Tell me more about springs

If you shorten them the tension is reduced where you need it the most, The rebound slide is retracting the hammer at the same time it's resetting the cylinder stop for the next cycle. Shortening the hammer spring reduces the hammer's impact at the forward stroke.

The right way (and I dispute that they're is such a thing) is to use a spring that is the same length, has the same number of coils, but is made using smaller diameter music wire. These can be obtained at:

www.brownells.com

Since my contributions don't seem to be what you are looking for I'll now leave this thread to others.
 
Occasional failure to ignite is not an issue.
As Old Fuff said, it darn well should be an issue!!!

My best results have been with a Wolff spring Pac tuning kit.

http://www.gunsprings.com/Revolvers/SMITH & WESSON/J FRAME/cID3/mID58/dID263

And the slickest grease you can come up with.
My goto is Outers GunSlick, but I think they stopped making it.

On top of that?
More practice and use will both make it smoother.
And your hand stronger.

Do that!

But DO NOT settle for 'works with only Federal Primers', or it doesn't matter if it mis-fires!!



rc
 
My 642 with a Wolff trigger pull kit works with all primers and makes a world of difference. The kit comes with 3 main spring weights and 3 rebound spring weights. I don't remember which combination I used but it's a winner.
 
Thanks all. And, for clarity concerning misfires, I meant only to convey this is not a SD pistol, if it light strikes while trying to lighten the trigger that's OK. I don't rapid fire any handgun as the ranges I have available frown on the practice.
 
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