S&W Revolver Questions

[nero45acp]

I just bought a beautiful S&W M10-6 made in '74 or '75. The finish is excellent except for some superfical "speckling" (tiny/superfical rust specks) on the back of the grip. I was thinking of sending the revolver to S&W's performance center to have it reblued in their "High Bright Polish" and have a "Master Revolver Action Job" done on it. My questions are what is a "Trigger Stop"? Should I consider a "Standard Polish & Blue" rather than a "High Bright Polish"? And finally how much of an improvement in the trigger should I expect with S&W's "Master Revolver Action Job"?

By the way when I purchased the M10-6 (for $325) I checked out a older Colt 4" blued Python they had for $900. The Colt was SWEET, flawless blue finish, and had one smmooootttthhhhhh trigger, but besides the big price difference, the S&W fit my hand better and I liked the fact that the S&W was less likely to "go out of time" with heavy double-action shooting (at least that's what I've been told). I really like my new S&W......but I keep thinking about that Python.
Thanks.


nero

 

[Stainz]

My new 2" 10-11, purchased last fall, was made 1/03. It's bluing is super - as good as my Heritage 24 from '02 - better than my older S&W's. S&W has not forgotten how to blue a revolver. And - it's trigger broke in beautifully. In fact, many folks have asked who did the great trigger job! I literally just cleaned and lubed it (It's lockwork was bone dry!), dry-fired it 1,000+ times, and repeated the cleaning and left a light lube.

I don't feel that an adjustable trigger stop, a small trigger mounted screw to limit trigger travel, is a value in the 10. I do believe that a +P rating is - and a new 10 would have that (Call S&W via that 800# with your 10's serial number to see if it is +P rated - they aren't all so rated.). I'll bet you can find a local shop who has in stock - or will order - a new 4" 10 for <$400. I have not seen one with that hammer lock (They probably have a stash of those frames!) - or less than a fine blued finish - yet! Now, if you want a SS version, a 4" 64 new is ~$400 locally.

That 10 - or it's SS brother, the 64 - is a great revolver. I would shoot that one you have... They are actually more fun to shoot than to view!

Stainz

 

[James Bondrock]

A trigger stop is a device that is meant to reduce or eliminate trigger overtravel (excess travel after the sear -- the part that holds the hammer in the cocked position -- releases the hammer). For shooting of tight groups on paper targets, this can move the pistol very slightly off target and cause a "flyer". These are commonly installed in gun designs that by their nature have a lot of this overtravel. If you look closely at a lot of custom 1911s, you will see a little hole in the front face of the trigger with an adjusting screw in it. Another example is the little bump on the rear side of the trigger on some Beretta models; this actually hits the frame to eliminate overtravel. The S&W revolver design has no overtravel to start with, so a trigger stop is not really necessary.

Which trigger job to choose depends on what you are using the gun for. If it is to be used for self defense, you usually just want to limit your trigger work to fitting and polishing of internal parts. The extremely light pulls can cause ammo to misfire due to light hammer strikes.

Which blue job to apply to your revolver is strictly a matter of personal taste and budget.

Colt Pythons seem to have had a sharp price increase in the last few years. I feel lucky to have acquired mine (a 1982 vintage six-inch matte stainless) in 1999 for "only" $500. A few months ago I saw a rare variant -- a Python Target in .38 Special -- for $1500! They have always had a long trigger reach, and the S&W K-frame revolvers like yours fit a much larger range of hand sizes.

 

[dfariswheel]

A "trigger job" on a revolver is actually an "Action job".
S&W will "polish" (actually hone or smooth) the internal parts of the action so the parts will operate smoothly.

DO NOT expect a "mirror finish". The parts are SMOOTHED not actually mirror polished, which has no effect on how smoothly parts operate.

This is really just doing a better job of mating and finishing the internal parts than they can afford to do on a production revolver.
In a production revolver, most parts are somewhat rougher than you would like, but S&W can't spend the time to clean them up, and still sell the gun at a price the public will pay.

You will notice a SLIGHTLY lighter double action trigger pull, and a somewhat SMOOTHER DA trigger pull.
How much difference you feel, will depend on how "educated" your trigger finger is. Some people feel a big difference, some less.

Don't expect an extremely light trigger pull.
Lightness actually contributes little to good DA trigger work, SMOOTHNESS does.
An action job focuses on smoothness of the trigger pull.

A "High-Bright" polish will be S&W's Best bluing, which although beautiful, is somewhat fragile. Any wear or scratches will show up prominently on the mirror-like finish.
The standard blue, is the same blue your gun now has: a good blue job, durable, but not as pretty.
If you're primarily interested in appearance, go for the better finish. If you want a "shooter" with a durable finish, go for the standard finish.

As for the choice between the Model 10 and the Colt Python, this is the difference between a Chevy and a Porsche.
Unlike regular production guns, Colt DOES spend the time to smooth and fit all internal parts.
With a Python, you're already getting a custom hand-fitted action.
The Python is built to insure the absolute best accuracy possible.

The Python's "timing problems" are more a result of abuse of the gun than a systemic problem.
Treat a Python like an expensive sports car, and it'll last like one.

 

[BluesBear]

A mid-1970s Model 10 will +p ammo just fine.
If you stick to factory loads it will outlast you and the person you will it to.

 

[nero45acp]

Thanks for everyone's replies and info.

defariswheel, I especially appreciate your posts/knowledge of Colts and revolvers. I think I may have to breakdown and buy a 4" stainless Python Elite later this year.



nero

 

[bountyhunter]

My questions are what is a "Trigger Stop"?

It is a small steel rod inside the rebound slide spring that limits the trigger travel in SA pull. Some smiths have them, some don't. very little difference between them. And for the record: the SW design requires a fair amount trigger travel past the hammer release point (maybe .060") because of the way the SA sear portion of the hammer has to move past the trigger nose when the hammer is cocked.

 

[bountyhunter]

I was thinking of sending the revolver to S&W's performance center to have it reblued in their "High Bright Polish" and have a "Master Revolver Action Job" done on it. ?

I have a nickle plated model 10 in new condition and it is worth about what you paid for yours. I like the guns too, but you may want to think twice about putting a lot of money into them especially for appearance items.

And finally how much of an improvement in the trigger should I expect with S&W's "Master Revolver Action Job"

No offense to gunsmiths, but if you buy the Kuhnhausen manual and some basic tools (screwdrivers) you can do a very good action job on a Sw revolver. If the gun has no problems, then there are only a few points which need to be polished to get a smooth pull, and you can install the lighter springs if you want a lighter DA pull. jerry Mikulek has an excellent video out on the subject that is highly regarded. You will also get the knowledge of how to maintain and care for your gun in the process. Just don't use any power tools (hand polish only) and stay off the sear faces and it's pretty hard to go wrong.