Scope adjustment - alot at 200 yards

[utbrowningman]

Just picked up a Browning X-Bolt Medallion .30-06 this spring which I mounted a Nikon Team Primos 3x9x40 on a Talley one-piece ring/base. When I sighted it in at 100 yards, I was not even on paper. Shot out to 200 yards at a large target just to see where the impact was from the point of aim. It was probably 1.5 feet low and 2.5 feet to the right. Well, after adjusting the scope quite a bit, I was on. I did get my mule deer (3 x 3) last week with one shot to the lungs at 110 yards so it does work. However, the perimeter of my field of view is blurry and this just bugs me. What are my options here to bring the scope back in line with minimal windage and elevation adjustment?

 

[hardluk1]

Normaly shooting your first shot would be at 25 yards. You can also look down the bore of a bolt rifle and then the scope to bore sight it. 25yards and 200 yards are close to the same or enough so if your spot on at 25 you will find your near to poa at 200 and a bit high at 100. Do you need to adjust the rear bell to your eye or move your scope back more toward youe eye to get a better and clearer field of view.

To re-center out your scopes you can move the adjustments all the way left then right and set at half way. Log the movement in clicks then do the same up and down. Check at 25 yards to see whats up bore sightong it first.

 

[Salty1]

The below link I found a few years back and now zero all my rifles this way. The 100 yard shots are typically no problems with my older eyes, the longer distance is where this comes into play for me. Worth a quick read....

http://elkhunter2.tripod.com/sight_in.html

 

[utbrowningman]

The rifle is sighted in now at 200 yards so sighting in is not the issue. The issue is that the windage and elevation had to be adjusted so much that I get distortion around the edges.

 

[PoPo22]

I am not as familiar with 30.6 as .308. When initially getting "on paper" with my .308 I usually start at 37 yds. as it seems to hit almost the same poa as will occur at 100 yds. When adjusting elevation to 200 yds. I have been successful with simply adding 8 clicks with a 1/4 moa scope using 168 BTHP ammo and then up 18 more "clicks" to get on at 300 yds. I realize this will be different with the 30.6 but should get you close. I am not quite sure if this is addressing your issue, but Good Luck.

 

[JDGray]

Was that scope mechanically centered before installing? If it was, you may have a base, or reciever issue.

 

[W.E.G.]

Could be an issue with the rings, or an issue with the mounting holes for the scope base.

If you want the scope centered left/right in the adjustment range of the scope, consider getting a base for the scope that at least allows you to mechanically move the rings to correct for elevation.

The standard Leupold one-piece base has this feature.
Requires that you use Leupold rings.



The "low" issue may go away when you switch to the Leupold rings.

 

[jmr40]

Normally the windage adjustable bases are not needed unless your scope mounting holes are not drilled correctly on the rifle. Either that is the problem or you have a scope problem. If the holes are drilled incorrectly the above bases should correct it. That is what they are made for. It used to be a more common problem years ago.

 

[Abel]

Isn't the Nikon Primos a discontinued model? Did you buy a "refurbished" Nikon from Natchez?

 

[utbrowningman]

Leupold does not make the base mentioned above for the X-Bolt. The scope came from SWFA and was not a refurb. Word is that the Team Primos were rebadged Monarchs.

 

[W.E.G.]

Leupold does not make the base mentioned above for the X-Bolt.

Your rifle may require the two-piece version - which is very much available.

https://www.google.com/#hl=en&sclie...ope+base+leupold&oq=x-bolt+scope+base+leupold

 

[hoghunting]

If you decide to use the Leupold base, use the Burris Signature rings with the polymer inserts as you may need the offset insert kit to center the reticle.

 

[Picher]

First, make sure the bases are down solidly on the receiver. If they are, you might find that barrel and receiver are not aligned properly, or that the barrel is touching one side of the barrel channel.

If none of the above are found, or unrealistic to correct, you may be able to improve the scope adjustment centering problem by shimming under the rear mount on the left side and the front, under the right. Try .015" shims. They may not fully center the rounds, but may improve the image. This is a trick gunsmiths used often to correct alignment on re-shaped, drilled and tapped military rifle receivers.

Grinding the bottoms of bases to correct misalignment isn't easy, so it's not recommended for anyone but gunsmiths who have the necessary equipment.

In addition, the rear mount could use an additional .018"+/- shim underneath to raise it to zero at 100 yards. I'd also use high strength Locktite under bases/shims, but low-strength Loctite on screw threads.

 

[wild willy]

***

 

[JDGray]

^^^Burris rings with tapered inserts would be easier^^^

Personally would verify the scope is optically centered by spinning in a set of v-blocks (that dont move), and keep rotating the scope 180*, and adjusting until the vertical cross hair stays on your aiming point. Now remount the scope and see how far off your windage is, should be very close if your bore axis is running true with the scope center line. If its off, start looking at the scope mount, and lay a straight edge (on edge) down the reciever holes, and eyeball to see if it runs parallel to the bore.

Good luck!!

 

[helotaxi]

If you decide to use the Leupold base, use the Burris Signature rings with the polymer inserts as you may need the offset insert kit to center the reticle.

You also want the polymer inserts to allow the ring bores to align with each other and not bind the scope or bend the tube. The X-bolt uses the 2-piece bases and they work very well with the Signature rings, speaking from experience.