Shortened Revolvers and Rate of Twist

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Gun Master

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I once traded with a buddy in which I got a 1917 S&W .45 ACP that had it's barrel shortened from 5" to 3" (among other modifications).

My question has to do with the rate of twist of the rifling of what that specific revolver was designed for, and adverse effects of altering (shortening) of that gun.

Does it adversely effect the performance of that gun ?
Let's start with the 1917 above (and Colt 1917), and continue with others, please.

Thanks, guys.:)
 
No, A snub nose is as mechanically accurate as one with a longer barrel. The only difference is the reduced sighting difference makes it harder to shoot accurately.
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This old MKII Hand Ejector shoots like a laser.
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This was my first six rounds fired after a barrel chop job. First two were at 7 O'clock. I over corrected on the 3rd and it went in at 1 O'clock.
Last three were right in there.. I quit while I was ahead.
 
The bullet leaves the shorter barrel stabilized. However due to the lower velocity from the shorter bare the bullet isn't spinning that fast and will become unstable at a shorter range than when fired from a longer barrel.

I've seen factory wadcutters shoot fine at 25 yds but start to keyhole at 50 yds. Shoot that same load in a 6" barrel and the bullet is traveling and spinning faster at 50 yds and it's still stable.

Added:

That's factory wadcutters start to keyhole at 25 yds in a 2" revolver.
 
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IMO: No, the only thing it effects is velocity.

I had a 1917 chop job in the 1960's, that had better Patridge sights installed on it.

And it was as accurate as any .45 I ever shot at 100+ yards.

rc
 
remodel is correct. As long as the bullet is spinning fast enough to be stable it remails accurate.
 
I was at a SWAT school back in the 70's
Watched a feller take a Rem Model 700 30-06 and hit a gong hanging on a cliff at 200 yds.
He did the same thing with a .30-30 Winchester, a S&W .44 Magnum, a Colt 1911 .45, and a S&W Model 10 2" .38 Special.

Now I know he knew exactly where to hold with each one, but I quit worrying about barrel length right then and there.
 
I won enough beer money in the Army in 1968-70 to buy new guns with.

Shooting GI ammo cans at 100 yards with a 2" S&W Chiefs Special..

There was Nobody that thought you could hit a barn from the inside with the doors shut using a snub-nose .38 Special.

I even had one fool that wanted to bet me $50 I couldn't hit him at 100 yards, and was willing to stand out there and let me try it!
He said the .158 grain bullets wouldn't hurt if I did accidentally hit him with one that far away!!

We finally settled on a $50 bet, and I put 5 holes through a 5 gallon steel bucket at 100 yards in about 10 seconds.

He turned white, then red, then paid me $50!!

rc
 
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SW32HEand1917.jpg

Bottom one. Smith and Wesson 1917 that had been cut to 3 1/2 inches. Three different 230 grain bullets over max charges of Unique.

The round holes with the lead smear - 230 grain lead RN. The round holes with the torn paper - 230 grain hardball. But them two I circled - they went through sideways. 25 feet, so they should not have slowed down too much. Lee TL 230 grain TC bullet.

Now, maybe my gun just don't like that bullet. It shot the RN ones fine.
 
Snub noses are often considered to be inaccurate because people have a hard time shooting them due to their small grips and short sight length. If you practice and become accustomed to these limitations, you will find they are reasonably accurate weapons.
 
Dean Grennell wrote that he had a rack of several Chief's Specials, each labeled to show what load and what range its fixed sights were zeroed for. He showed a lot of nay-sayers what a snubby can do.
 
My question has to do with the rate of twist of the rifling of what that specific revolver was designed for, and adverse effects of altering (shortening) of that gun.

Does it adversely effect the performance of that gun ?
Let's start with the 1917 above (and Colt 1917), and continue with others, please.

Thanks, guys.:)
Shortening the barrel doesn't alter the rifling, so the rate of twist doesn't change.
 
If given a choice say for a .357 Mag with a 2-3" barrel I would prefer a 1:16 twist over a 1:18.75 I had a early 4" Colt Trooper 357 with a 1:14" twist it shot 148 gr LWCs very well with 2.8gr of Bullseye at 50yds.
I think this is why the Smolt was born, partly due to a faster twist rate?
 
If given a choice say for a .357 Mag with a 2-3" barrel I would prefer a 1:16 twist over a 1:18.75 I had a early 4" Colt Trooper 357 with a 1:14" twist it shot 148 gr LWCs very well with 2.8gr of Bullseye at 50yds.
I seriously any difference realized was due to the twist rate.


I think this is why the Smolt was born, partly due to a faster twist rate?
Nope, more due to the weight of the underlug and the choked bore.
 
...Bottom one. Smith and Wesson 1917 that had been cut to 3 1/2 inches. Three different 230 grain bullets over max charges of Unique.

The round holes with the lead smear - 230 grain lead RN. The round holes with the torn paper - 230 grain hardball. But them two I circled - they went through sideways. 25 feet, so they should not have slowed down too much. Lee TL 230 grain TC bullet.

Now, maybe my gun just don't like that bullet. It shot the RN ones fine...
the Real Alpo,

The S&W 1917 is notoriously picky about what it likes to shoot. The rifling is rather shallow and set up to grab the FMJ Hardball. A lead bullet needs to take that into account. I am not sure the tumble lube grooves can be cast sufficiently hard to effectively grab the rifling.

Kevin
 
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