So . . . exactly how bad is my forcing cone eroded?

[Dave Reese]

Hello, everyone.

Today, I purchased a well-used S&W Model 13-3 (blued K-frame Smith .357 with fixed sights) --with a truly sweet and tempting trigger--for $289 OTD.

However, it seems I am a yutz when it comes to buying revolvers. I did not read the excellent thread here regarding what to look for when purchasing used revolvers. I should have, as I have not purchased many used revolvers. As a matter of fact, I believe that today was the first time I've purchased a used revolver.

Because of my ignorance, I think I have purchased a revolver with a forcing cone that looks--to my unpracticed eye--like crap. That is, it appears to be extremely worn--though it is not cracked. (Note also the flame cutting into the topstrap.)

Am I right? Did my lust for a K-frame .357 lead me into purchasing a piece with a crap forcing cone? If so, what are my options?

 

[Dave Reese]

More pics

More pics of the horror that is my M-13's forcing cone.

 

[Dave Reese]

And yes, I paid too much, and yes, I am a yutz. Browbeat away. Just let me know what my options are.

 

[Majic]

First give it a good scrubbing. There is some lead build-up you have to remove before you can see if there is any erosion.

 

[slopemeno]

Hmmm. I think thats erosion. Look up at the underside of the topstrap. See the gas cutting? Not a huge problem (you should see my Dads Blackhawk), but the barrel may well be a problem. .357 K-frame parts are becoming harder to get, and Smith ususally wouldnt sell barrels to the public. Your best bet may be to 1)Find a new or lightly used barrel or 2) Have the shoulder of the existing barrel set back a turn and all the other little issues that come with that job. I would start looking for a barrel if it were mine. Have you shot it yet, by the way? Has the erosion hurt the accuracy any? The reason I ask is I shot a Redhawk a few years ago that had the most over-the-top case of forcing cone erosion you've ever seen, but it shot acceptably.

 

[Dave Reese]

Haven't shot it yet.

 

[Jim K]

Most of the crud I see is on the outside of the forcing cone. See what a steel (yes, I said steel) brush will do. I use those "toothbrush" types with the black handle; I don't mean a huge heavy steel wire brush.

The question on the top strap cutting has been asked many times. S&W has responded that the cutting will proceed only a certain distance and then stop; it will not significantly weaken the top strap. (S&W used to make a thumbnail cut in the top strap, but discontinued it in one of their many cost-cutting changes.)

I would get a Lewis lead remover and make sure the cone is not full of lead, a very common situation when firing non-jacketed bullets at high speed.

Jim

 

[Dr.Who]

Don't be to quick to condemn the barrel or the cone till you have removed all the lead and cleaned the barrel. The Lewis cleaner does a great job on both the cone and barrel. I would venture to guess that once cleaned inspected that you will be fine. The true test will be once you shoot it and see how it preforms. I have a few Smiths, Rugers and Colts with a bit of flame cutting in the top strap... They preform great!

If you bought it to as a shooter, your problably fine. If you bought it as a museum piece.... well maybe not so fine....

Enjoy...

 

[fisherman66]

That flame cut look pretty deep. I bet she shoots fine, but coughs and sputters out the gap.

 

[DB]

I'm no expert, but I do own a number of S&W revolvers and it doesn't look all that bad to me... I would use a Lewis lead remover tool as mentioned earlier and see what it looks like when cleaned up of lead deposits. You can get one from Brownells. I wouldn't worry about the flame cutting on the topstrap. As mentioned, it is self-limiting and won't progress to the point of harm.

 

[Old Fuff]

Like they say, "Ya' got'ta get the lead out..."

I don't think its in as bad shape as it looks, although you should check the cylinder for end-shake (back & forth movement) and measure the barrel/cylinder gap with a feeler gauge. The worst that might be needed is to set the barrel back and recut the forcing cone.

Clean it, and then shoot it - and see where you're at. Meanwhile don't worry about it.

Did you pay too much?? Maybe yes, maybe no - but again don't worry. If you did pay too much it won't be long before the value catches up.

In the long run you won't go wrong ...

 

[Standing Wolf]

Not to rain on anyone's parade, of course, but I've seen barrel throats that were seriously eroded without adversely affecting accuracy at all.

All other things being equal, sure, a smooth throat is preferable, but there's a good chance it won't make a perceptible difference. In the event it does, you can always have a barrel rethroated and set back a couple turns by a competent gunsmith.

 

[Kurac]

It looks used but after all it is a used gun so no surprise. I think it could get twice as bad as it is before it starts to become a problem. So, after you put another 10,000 rounds through it, post some more pics.

 

[Master Blaster]

The forcing cone funnels the bullet into the rifling, the rifling tappers off to nothing in the forcing cone section of the barrel. Its hard to say from the pics, but the flame cutting and forcing cone looks normal to me for a gun that had a couple thousand full power mags fired through it.

The thing you really have to watch for in a k frame is a cracked forcing cone from firing light weight bullets at extremelty high velocities. Stay away from the 110 and 125 grainers in full power .357 mag loads. Shoot those 158 grain bullets and it will live forever!

How is the rifling in the rest of the barrel????, How is the barrel crown at the muzzle????

I would shoot it first and see how the accuracy is before you decide to replace the barrel.

 

[HighVelocity]

It doesn't look so bad to me. What does the rest of the gun look like?

 

[B36]

Look, this poor gun is obviously in pain. Send it to me and I will lovingly put it to sleep. .

Really, just shoot it and have fun. The 3" 13s are great guns. Enjoy

 

[MassMan]

forcing cone

Hey, in the worst case scenario you can always send it back to S&W. They offer a life time warranty on their handguns and their service has always been excellent when I have needed it. If you are not sure call their 800 # and ask. Good luck!

 

[Dave Reese]

Everyone,

Thanks very much for the helpful replies. My near-total ignorance about revolvers has been remedied somewhat. My concern stemmed from comparing the near-virgin forcing cone of my 442 with that of my Model 13. The difference is pretty stark; hence my alarm. Compounding my momentary disappointment was the fact that I'd purchased said Model 13 from my favorite gun shop, and didn't want to think I'd been overcharged by the same folks who've done me right time and again before.

I'm very relieved to hear from wiser heads that my "problem" was--well, not a problem. I'll look into getting a Lewis lead remover and proceed apace.

Thanks again!

 

[Old Fuff]

Also remember that you can always return the revolver to S&W's service department to have the barrel set back a turn or so, and the forcing cone recut. I doubt that this would be necessary, but if you came to really like the gun you might consider it as a feel-better option.

Then too, keep in mind that it appears that K-frame .357 Magnums are now a thing of the past, and as a consequence the price/value will likely start to go up.

I don't think you're in bad shape at all...

 

[cxm]

Don't think it is bad

I'm not at all sure you have a problem.

Cutting is normal, and self limiting...

You can get the lead out by using some copper gauze on a worn out bore brush (copper gauze is available at grocery stores.)

FWIW

Chuck

Hello, everyone.

Today, I purchased a well-used S&W Model 13-3 (blued K-frame Smith .357 with fixed sights) --with a truly sweet and tempting trigger--for $289 OTD.

However, it seems I am a yutz when it comes to buying revolvers. I did not read the excellent thread here regarding what to look for when purchasing used revolvers. I should have, as I have not purchased many used revolvers. As a matter of fact, I believe that today was the first time I've purchased a used revolver.

Because of my ignorance, I think I have purchased a revolver with a forcing cone that looks--to my unpracticed eye--like crap. That is, it appears to be extremely worn--though it is not cracked. (Note also the flame cutting into the topstrap.)

Am I right? Did my lust for a K-frame .357 lead me into purchasing a piece with a crap forcing cone? If so, what are my options?