So let's rehash the alternative lubricant/cleaner thread shall we?

[cslinger]

Anybody try Ed's Red as a bore cleaner? How toxic is this stuff? For instance what happens if it gets on a polymer part?

For all you ATF fluid or Mobile one users, how long have you been using this and what are your experiences?

I realize that one shouldn't pay big bucks on a gun only to skimp on ammo and cleaning supplies. but unlike ammo I just gotta believe one can make a decent cleaner and lubricant without the cost of it being jacked up just because it is a "FIREARM CLEANER" etc.

I have been checking out ingredient lists and what not and it seems like you could at the very least suppliment the use of an expensive product like Breakfree CLP with something home made from time to time. Maybe only give it a good CLP soak every few cleanings or something.

Anyhoo, I am really just looking for people who have actually tried some of these home made remedies. I mean a tackle box that is labled as a tackle box is $10 bucks while a tackle box labeled as a gun supply kit or whatever is $40 bucks.

So what is the story people?

Chris

 

[bogie]

Don't get into false economy.

I spend $400+ on a chambered match grade barrel. If I let copper build up in it, it can trash it. Trash it bad, and trash it quick.

I'll go through a $15 jar of Butch's Bore Shine in a weekend of competition.

 

[JHill]

I went the Mobil 20w50 synthetic route on my 1911. Compared to Militec1--no match. Militec1 hands down. Even if it is ~$50 ounze comparatively. I would rather have a 'dry-lube' that won't be such a magnet for crud.

I put about 10 drops on a cleaning patch and wipe everything down and then re-wipe w/ a dry cloth. Everything has a lubed sheen to it for many weeks after.

 

[Dave Markowitz]

Ed's Red and ATF

I've been using Ed's Red for a few years and it works very well at removing powder fouling. One nice thing about it is that because it's so cheap, you can pour a decent amount into a container and soak dirty parts in an ER bath.

Do not rely on ER alone to neutralize corrosive primers, however. If you shoot corrosive ammo, run a few patches with Windex that contains ammonia through the bore first, which will neutralize the salts, after which you can finish up with ER.

Also, ER doesn't work well to remove copper fouling. For that something like Sweet's 7.62 or even Hoppe's No.9 work much better.

As I have no polymer guns, I can't comment on how it might affect something like a Glock or an XD. However, ER is pretty stinky, so you definitely want to use it in a ventilated area.

ER will work pretty well as a light duty lubricant, IME, but I prefer straight ATF as a general purpose gun lube and wipe down, and for my needs it works just fine. ER also works good for cleaning bicycle chains.

I started using grease on the moving parts of my semiautos, though, since it stays in place better than oil. I'm currently using Shooter's Choice grease, and of course Lubriplate as found at gun shows in the little 1 CC cups works well (it's packaged that way to fit in the stock of an M1).

HTH.

 

[cheygriz]

Frodo,

I used Shooter's choice grease for years. It's great stuff. But several years ago, I discovered TETRA grease, and I've used no other grease since. give it a try!

 

[P95Carry]

On the matter of ''home brews'' ... IIRC Cornbread2 posted this .. called ''Panther piss'' tho I guess known by other names also!! .....

3 pts Rubbing alcohol (iso propyl)
3 pts Peroxide (std 3%)
2 pts Murphy's (wood soap? ....damn , forget exact name but ... ya know what it is).

Mix in these proportions and keep in a light proof jug . and/or, keep out of the light, to preserve the peroxide component.

Uses? Well it is primarily for black powder cleaning .. to cope with them nasty nitrates and sulfur but ... bonus .. GREAT for times when you have fired off some corrosive primer ammo in your ole C&R.

Recommend it.

After use of course, dry throughly and then oil finish as per your taste.

 

[pahrumpcaveman]

I made 5 gallons of ed's red and I like it . Just use it as a parts dip to remove all the grime and then use a little # 9 for the copper .

 

[foghornl]

P95Carry:

As I vaguely sort of recall, you are speaking of "Murphy's Oil Soap for Wood Cleaning". Mom always seemed to have at least 2 bottles of the stuff around.

 

[P95Carry]

Thx foghornl ..... you got it ... "Murphy's Oil Soap " - had meant to check in kitchen cupboard to be sure!

I made a gallon of this brew last year . and keep the bulk of it in a yellow ex-antifreeze plastic jug ... the stuff I use is in one of the used peroxide bottles ... it will last way longer than I will!!!

 

[Poodleshooter]

The alcohol/ peroxide combo will do a number on barrel steel if left in the barrel. It's a good lead stripper, as it oxidizes the lead quickly. It turns into a soft black mush, and is easily scrubbed out. I use it as a "once a year" treatment on my muzzleloader. Water and cheap dish soap work just fine the rest of the year.
Anbody every used kerosene and ammonia? Seems like that would make a good multipurpose solvent for copper and powder fouling.

 

[1badmagnum]

I clean and oil my pistol after each shooting session,so crud doesn't have a chance to build up.cleaning this often would cost a fortune using commercial gun products.
I use non clorinated brake cleaner followed by mobil one.I would never use a thick lubricant as grease.

 

[sm]

Zippo lighter fluid: will clean and degrease. Freezing temps and a stuck firing pin ?...degrease and then ducks, deer, game not a 'click'.

Sewing machine oil/ any well refined machine oil.

Grease: Lubriplate hard to beat...been around a long time.

Just a few "non-gun" products that have worked for so many before the market became inundated with specific products.

Know a guy been using lighter fluid and Case(tm) honing oil for years...knife shop went out of business and he paid $5.00 for a case of 12 cans of oil...lives in a rural area...freezer always full of game...Lubriplate...has changed labels since he last bought his...