Stupid Move Raises Stupid Question...

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Got a tumbler? Tumble them and load them...I really would not worry about the dust. If you are, just take them outside and blow on them and load them.

As far as the oven and 200* is concerned and the discoloration and all...Those cases get even hotter when they are fired...Don't believe me? have one ejected down your T-shirt and see how fast you try to get it out before it leaves a burn mark...LOAD'em!! I know a lot of people that use the wife's oven to dry brass and a few of them (including me) have left them in for a few hours...Not a problem except explaining the color to other reloaders at the range that have done it too and are chuckling...At you...
 
I'd toss them - it's just not worth the risk. I'm not a metallurgist but I believe that some annealing can happen at lower temperatures if they spend enough time there. I know it's hard as a reloader to throw out brass but I value my guns and eyesight too much to knowingly load even slightly questionable brass.
 
How hot does brass get when you fire a cartridge?

Hot enough to raise a blister on your belly when it ejects into your shirt collar and you can't pull your shirt tail out quick enough with one hand while holding a cocked auto pistol in the other.

OK... about half of you say pitch 'em, the other half says load 'em.

Maybe I'll just use them for bullet seating practice or something, since I'm new to reloading. Or make more cartridge jewelry out of them, which is what I used to do with all my spent 22 shorts, longs and magnums.
 
I suspect that the combination of heat and high temperature caused the discoloration. I doubt it was hot enough to have any negative impact on the cases.

If it bothers you, toss them in the scrap pile.

I would not obsess too much on getting shiny cases. Get them clean so they don't scratch your dies and the residue inside the fired cases is removed.

When I was a poor student, I used to clean brass by putting a handful of fired brass in a sock and tying the end off, then putting it through the washer and dryer with my dirty clothes. Came out nice and clean, but not real shiny.

I second the idea of putting strips of paper towels in your tumbler. A lot of dust and grit gets captured by the paper towel strips.
 
It's Okay.

BikerNut,

If all of us got killed for doing something stupid once in awhile, there'd be nobody on this forum. ;)

Don't take any of the harsh criticism personally. Some of it probably came from guys whose nickname is "Lefty." :D

It's good to just fess up and ask if you're not sure. I know I've made my mistakes and ruined one firearm before I got religeon about being cautious.:eek:
 
Sure brass gets hot when fired,but it cools down right after firing. cooking in an oven the brass would stay hot for a much longer time. If I was you I would chuck it.
 
Will you ever completely trust them? No. Send them to one of the guys here who says "Load and shoot", and then get some new stuff to clean and prep. Life is too short to shoot bad/questionable brass.
 
You might read this article: http://www.lasc.us/CartridgeCaseAnnealing.htm

Here's an excerpt: (Personally, I'd clean 'em and use 'em)
________
Brass is an excellent conductor of heat. A flame applied at any point on a case for a short time will cause the rest of the case to heat very quickly. There are several temperatures at which brass is affected. Also, the time the brass remains at a given temperature will have an effect. Brass which has been "work hardened" (sometimes referred to as "cold worked") is unaffected by temperatures up to 482 degrees (F) regardless of the time it is left at this temperature. Remember, water boils at 212 degrees (F), and oil heated in a frying pan easily reaches 500(F) or more degrees. (All temperatures will be in Fahrenheit).

At about 495 degrees (F) some changes in grain structure begins to occur, although the brass remains about as hard as before -- it would take a laboratory analysis to see the changes that take place at this temperature.

If cases are heated to about 600 degrees (F) for one hour, they will be thoroughly annealed -- head and body included. That is, they will be ruined. (For a temperature comparison, pure lead melts at 621.3 degrees (F)).

The critical time and temperature at which the grain structure reforms into something suitable for case necks is 662 degrees (F) for some 15 minutes. A higher temperature, say from 750 to 800 degrees, will do the same job in a few seconds. If brass is allowed to reach temperatures higher than this (regardless of the time), it will be made irretrievably and irrevocably too soft. Brass will begin to glow a faint orange at about 950 degrees (F). Even if the heating is stopped at a couple of hundred degrees below this temperature, the damage has been done -- it will be too soft. From this discussion we can see that there are four considerations concerning time and temperature:

1> Due to conduction, the amount of heat necessary to sufficiently anneal the case neck is great enough to ruin the rest of the case.
2> If the case necks are exposed to heat for a sufficient period of time, a lower temperature can be used.
3> The longer the case necks are exposed to heat, the greater the possibility that too much heat will be conducted into the body and head, thereby ruining the cases.
4> The higher the temperature, the less time the case necks will be exposed to heat, and there will be insufficient time for heat to be conducted into the body and head.
 
only things i take from the kitchen are things the mrs wont miss, doesn't use or that i can replace before she finds out it is missing. i think the brass would be ok and were it me i would keep it seperate , load it on the light side and mark it as 'field ammo'.
 
Please don't wash your brass in your colander anymore, there's probably still some lead residue in the brass, and possibly even mercury from the primer.
 
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