Surplus Rifle Stock clean Up with WD-40

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Bedfordtec

Bedfordtec

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To clean up my US surplus rifles I use a wide PVC pipe with screw too filled with denatured alcohol followed by a 24 hour dip in one filled with boiled Linseed oil. Works great in restoring GI finishes.however too harsh for rifles like Enfield’s and SKS’ s. For these I have been using WD-40 with good results to clean oily/greasy stocks. Some say Mineral Spirits is good too. Your comments are appreciated. Thanks.
 
I have always heard mineral spirits works well. Back in the days of $75 SKS rifles in grease, I used brake parts cleaner. It took about 1 can per rifle as I recall.
 
Haven't heard of that. Curiosity aroused. May have to try it with next rifle. Getting dirt out of wood grain without removing wood is problematic. Thanks for posting. But question about denatured alcohol: does that method raise the grain a lot?
 
Cleaning the wood on milsurps always came along with stripping the finish for me (for restain/refinish), so I used some really harsh methods like brake cleaner, Simple Green, oven cleaner, etc. It got the rifles clean for sure - clean enough that the old finish wiped off with a rag. Or at least with some persuasion from 180 grit sandpaper.

WD-40 wouldn't actually be too bad of an approach: it's effective enough as a solvent to try and dig out 70 years of grease, but gentle enough to where you can spray it on and try it without risking any permanent damage to the wood. The one thing it really hates are plastics, but that's not an issue for milsurps.
 
351 WINCHESTER said:
I know a gunsmith that used oven cleaner on his.
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I've used the Easy-Off strip plus Simple Green wash & scrub method on a couple that were really dirty. It's really pretty harsh, and you're going to lose the oil, the finish, and mostly likely some surface wood, so if there's any barely legible or almost gone markings you wish to preserve, I'd recommend against it, because you're endangering your collectibility, but yes, if that's not an issue, the end result can be quite pleasing.
 
In response to my sealed tube of denatured alcohol, I actually have two, the first being the initial wash and the other the final rinse. The 8” pipe is PVC and capped on one end with a screw cap on the top. I use a clay flower pot with the hole on the bottom to fully submerge the wood. I use 0004 grit steel wool to rub it down. Grain is not really raised but the cartouches are more visible. Problem with foreign weapons is that it removes the stain like found on an SKS.
 
caribou said:
There is a HUGE difference between cleaning a stock of grease, dirt and grime and actually stripping the original finnish, and ruining the collectability of a nice surplus rifle.
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Exactly, so define your priority and use a method compatible with that.
 
Stripping Off the Old Finish and Other Debris: Walnut and birch are easily worked with, but not cheaply and take some labor if you want a nice job without making a chemical mess of the wood. Any product or procedure that includes water is not appropriate for refinishing rifle stocks. The oven cleaner and dishwasher versions of cleaning stocks are not appropriate. Water, chemicals, and hot water are the death of wood fibers and any cartouche marks on the wood. Wood in many respects is a bundle of straws held together by glue. The active ingredient in Easy-Off Oven Cleaner (sodium hydroxide) attacks the natural wood glue (hemicellulose) holding the wood fibers together. Left on long enough, it will even attack the individual wood fibers. Even more problematic when unintended is that Easy-Off requires rinsing with water which raises the grain of the wood and requires sanding to remove the feathers raised. A dishwasher’s water and heat have the potential to swell wood fibers so much that the metal will not fit back in. Oven cleaners and dishwasher detergents chemically alter the wood fibers and remove natural oils in the wood. A lye like compound may be left in the wood to later leach out if damp and attack the metal placed against it. Minwax Antique Furniture Refinisher, synthetic stripping pads, a stiff toothbrush, and a kitchen vegetable brush will get all the old finish off of the hand guards and off of a walnut or birch stock while putting needed natural oils into the wood and keeping the grain flat. Every bit of the stock, inside and out, should be cleaned with the Refinisher including the butt stock kit holes. It is actually good for the wood. Use something like a 3” deep 4” by 10” steel pan to catch the Refinisher that runs off so that the customer can keep applying it. It will run down the wood as the work progresses into the pan to reuse. The directions on the can should be read carefully before use. The can clearly indicatesm the Refinisher must be used in a well ventilated area. The fumes should not be inhaled.
 
To update this topic, I elected to try the WD-40 method with my latest milsurp project, a Carcano M1941 I got from J&G, mostly just to satisfy my curiosity about how well it works. Now, to begin with, this rifle's stock was in pretty decent "before" shape - nothing at all like those filthy dirty Royal Tiger Ethiopia rifles. And I modified the method slightly: instead of soaking the stock in a WD-40 bath, I first (after separating from barrelled action and other metal bits) wrapped the stock in old rags and then soaked the mummified stock by liberally spraying with WD-40, then wrapped it all up in Saran Wrap. Left it to soak for half an day (longer would probably have been even better). Then after unwrapping did a quick wipe down and a quick wash in the shower with hot water and Murphy's Oil Soap. Then after quick drying, rubbing with #0000 steel wool to finish removing dirt and coax out the grain and the color. I'll finish with a couple applications of BLO and/or tung oil. I'm extremely happy with how well this method worked, so far, and after I get the rifle finished and back together, maybe I'll post a photo.
 
wiscoaster said:
To update this topic, I elected to try the WD-40 method with my latest milsurp project, a Carcano M1941 I got from J&G, mostly just to satisfy my curiosity about how well it works. Now, to begin with, this rifle's stock was in pretty decent "before" shape - nothing at all like those filthy dirty Royal Tiger Ethiopia rifles. And I modified the method slightly: instead of soaking the stock in a WD-40 bath, I first (after separating from barrelled action and other metal bits) wrapped the stock in old rags and then soaked the mummified stock by liberally spraying with WD-40, then wrapped it all up in Saran Wrap. Left it to soak for half an day (longer would probably have been even better). Then after unwrapping did a quick wipe down and a quick wash in the shower with hot water and Murphy's Oil Soap. Then after quick drying, rubbing with #0000 steel wool to finish removing dirt and coax out the grain and the color. I'll finish with a couple applications of BLO and/or tung oil. I'm extremely happy with how well this method worked, so far, and after I get the rifle finished and back together, maybe I'll post a photo.
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I love it when a Bubba job comes together. :D Looking forward to some pics.
 
caribou said:
There is a HUGE difference between cleaning a stock of grease, dirt and grime and actually stripping the original finnish, and ruining the collectability of a nice surplus rifle.
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That's funny. Original finish on a milsurp rifle. :rofl:

The likelihood of a milsurp rifle having an "original" finish by the time e it gets to a retail rack is pretty darn slim.
 
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I have several surplus rifles with original , factory finishes. Worn, scratched, scuffed and just plain used hard on many, for sure

Mausers, Mosins, Carcano's, Enfeilds, Japanese, US arms.....I have several turn of the century auto pistols, and again, the finish is original on all and a couple 1800's Winchester lever guns I have, still have original finish.

While its not all that pretty, but even my Mochetto has its original, heavily worn, finish still on it and its very obvious, if you know what your looking at.
I also have an almost pristine 0 series Japanese type 99. Full Mum, all matching numbers, 99% blue, staked screws, 95% + reddish finish too....

When you are a collector, you look for and want original finish on a milsurp......or a Winchester , Etc.
Collectors want original parts, original finishes, unless its so rare it cant be helped.
Refinished or reblueing lowers a guns collecting value.
 
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DocRock said:
That's funny. Original finish on a milsurp rifle. :rofl:

The likelihood of a mulatto rifle having an "original" finish by the time e it gets to a retail rack is pretty darn slim.
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I hear ya!! That's why I'm not anal about "original". The existing finish when I buy some of these rifles more resembles used axle grease.

My priority is useability over collectibility. If the gun is so dirty I don't want to shoot it then it has no useability value to ME, even if maybe it has more collectible value.

That being said, I am careful to preserve original identity markings, such as cartouches, etc ... or even soldier "field modifications" and personal "art" --->
View media item 3306
(yes, those are NAILS)
 
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caribou said:
I have several surplus rifles with original , factory finishes. Worn, scratched, scuffed and just plain used hard on many, for sure

Mausers, Mosins, Carcano's, Enfeilds, Japanese, US arms.....I have several turn of the century auto pistols, and again, the finish is original on all and a couple 1800's Winchester lever guns I have, still have original finish.

While its not all that pretty, but even my Mochetto has its original, heavily worn, finish still on it and its very obvious, if you know what your looking at.
I also have an almost pristine 0 series Japanese type 99. Full Mum, all matching numbers, 99% blue, staked screws, 95% + reddish finish too....

When you are a collector, you look for and want original finish on a milsurp......or a Winchester , Etc.
Collectors want original parts, original finishes, unless its so rare it cant be helped.
Refinished or reblueing lowers a guns collecting value.
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I guess it's just like my great grandfather's axe. Been handed down through the generations. The head was replaced in the the 1950s and the handle replaced a few times, but otherwise, it's original.

I don't think you are using the term "finish" correctly.
 
DocRock said:
I guess it's just like my great grandfather's axe. Been handed down through the generations. The head was replaced in the the 1950s and the handle replaced a few times, but otherwise, it's original.

I don't think you are using the term "finish" correctly.
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Your grandfathers ax is junk and uncollectable, to any ax collector who wants it original.....if its in the same same boat as a refinished rifle stock thats being passed off as 'original", to a collector. Your family may have valuable sentiments about the ax, but the guy down the road , who collects them, didnt know yer grandpa and could care less what a great heirloom it is, its as simple as "not original" and therfore not as desirable, or valuable, as an original matching peice.
I dont think your using the term "original" correctly.
Im sure the ax works great and could be used to deforest California, but its not a collectable, on its own merit, anymore.

Still, removing and replacing the finish on a rifle stock by chemically stripping the finish still ruins its value to a collector of guns, but not its utility or appeal to most shooters.

I know what Finish is, as applied to the finish on a stock.
Original, un "refinished" wood is a very serious part of obtaining a collectable piece

Then theres utility rifles, and what happens to them, be they milsurp or modern commercial.

I use Milsurps to adnausum to make a living, my M-39 is my favorite, and I dont care much about it appearance, and a straight shooter, but is treated quite unlike, say, my nice early SAKO M-39 Straight stock, with original unscuffed finish, 99% blue and blindingly shiney bore.

Even a an M91/30 with its varnish flaking off has much more collector interest than a shiney new poly coat, or even just bare, sanded, dry wood.

You , I and He can do as we please with guns, clean and use, clean again, no problem. My earlier statement is still true, if its to be resold, to people (Collectors) who pay top prices, a refinished Milsurp will not be as valuable as an unrefinished rifle.
 
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caribou said:
...<snip>...I use Milsurps to adnausum to make a living, my M-39 is my favorite, and I dont care much about it appearance, and a straight shooter, but is treated quite unlike, say, my nice early SAKO M-39 Straight stock, with original unscuffed finish, 99% blue and blindingly shiney bore...<snip>...You , I and He can do as we please with guns, clean and use, clean again, no problem. My earlier statement is still true, if its to be resold, to people (Collectors) who pay top prices, a refinished Milsurp will not be as valuable as an unrefinished rifle.
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This, I think, is the wise approach to acquiring and using milsurps. Decide WHY you want the rifle and WHAT you plan to use it for BEFORE you do anything to it that may change it in any way. And yes, maybe some people do both, and what they do depends on what condition the rifle is when they get it. Collecting and shooting are two inherent opposites, and taking a middle approach is going to detract in some way from one or the other to some degree that should be decided before you do it, because it's not reversible.
 
To update the WD-40 project rifle: it shoots great!! Took it to the outdoor range and shot off about $35 worth of PPU ammo. Most of which was expended trying to figure out where to hold. :rofl:
 
Oh, ya,....them Italian sights are "unique" to say the least.....

I burned 3-4 box's of ammo before I gave up, not even getting on paper with out holding 4 feet low.....and about a year later read about the Italians sight needed to be "burying the front sight" with just the tip showing in the deep V.....and that the battle setting on the Moschotto was 300 yards.....I was probably sailing those suckers out past 1,000 yards with my 100 yard "sight in"

Later, I got with it and got some decent groups, but now it is stored in the dry locker, not really my kinda plinker...
 
Ya, it's weird "aiming" at the grass to hit the gong at 200 yds :confused: (at least aiming in the sense you would with a U.S. rifle's sight picture)

I made a rough sketch and posted it some time ago in another thread, I suppose it wouldn't hurt to repost it here:

View media item 3296
 
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