Taurus 66 Question

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HGUNHNTR

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This summer I bought a Taurus Model 66 6" Blued for hunting and plinking. I have put between 300-500 rounds of 38spl, and about 150 rounds of 357 ammo through it. All Factory fodder. I have noticed that the cylinder lock isn't quite as tight as it used to be. I have not noticed any change in accuracy, (still shoots 2.5" @ 25 yards) Should I be concerned?

Also, I plan on deer hunting with gun. I have Remington 165 Gr. Corelokt Hunting loads, and 170 Gr. Bonded Core Buffalo Bore loads. Both shoot very well. Any preferences--Hardcast Keith Style Maybe?
 
A little wiggle of the cylinder rotationally is ok, but end-shake (front to back) is not a good thing. To evaluate your gun, just follow Jim March's handy revolver checkout procedure at the following link, it is a must-have when buying any new/used revolver:

http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=57816

Oh, and make sure your gun is unloaded before going through his instructions.
 
Only 2.5" groups? Try some other fodder. Mine shoots into 1" with .38 Special wadcutter handloads and with a 140 grain Speer JHP load in .357 Magnum. Also, the 180 grain XTP is a very accurate bullet in this and other revolvers and will go about 1" at 25 yards.

Not handloading restricts your choices, but in .38 and .357, you have about the widest variety possible in factory fodder. Try some Speer/CCI with the 140 grain bullet or if you can find something loaded by Hornady with the XTP bullet. Also, if you can get some Remington HBWC loads, that stuff is AWESOME accurate in the .38s I've fired it in.

The cylinder will loosen a little after break in, not a problem. Yes, I agree, end shake is the thing you have to worry about, not a little side to side play, which is normal in any revolver. Also, if the gun is properly timed, often it will be tighter with the trigger pulled and hammer down (as in moment of firing) than it is with just the gun at rest with the trigger forward. This is because the hand is fully up against its notch (thing that turns the cylinder on cocking) when the trigger is pulled. I don't know if that made any sense. I'm not a gunsmith and don't pay attention to proper names of parts. :banghead:
 
The one thing I've noticed about Taurus revolvers is that they do loosen up a bit, but they should loosen to a point and then stop. It shouldn't be a continuing problem. Remember that even .38 ammo subjects the gun to some pretty good jolts. Guns that are well designed and built with good components usually absorb the initial shocks very well; however, Taurus has never fully picked itself up and made itself a first-rate firearms company, though it has been steadily improving.

I've owned three Taurus 66 .357 revolvers over the past 25 years and all three loosened up, one developing some end-shake. None was particularly accurate and I gave one to my girl friend for protection. I concluded that though they may look like Smith & Wessons, they really aren't.

Again, if the gun continues to loosen, dump it. But you may find that it's just settled in.
 
Gee, it's a Taurus! Just keep sending them back until they get it fixed or not!!
 
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