Thinking of Buying a Muzzleloader

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leadaddict

leadaddict

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I've always kind of wanted one, but since moving to Iowa late last year I now have a fairly early whitetail season available to me if I own one. So now I HAVE to buy one! :D

The other place I may hunt with it is Colorado. I've been talking with a cousin there about coming out for an Elk hunt. Given this possibility I want a setup suitable for this as well. This complicates my decision because while reading Colorado regulations I found you can't use scopes or sabots. Obviously this means I will want a gun with good sights. My questions are about the use of sabot vs non-sabot bullets.

I've always assumed, given my experience with shotgun slugs, that the best performance in a muzzleloader would come when using sabots. Is this true? How much difference is there? Is there any concideration when buying the rifle if I'll be shooting sabots Vs. non-sabots?

I'm open to suggestions for specific rifles and bullets as well. I'm looking to spend $400, give or take a little.

Thanks!!!
 
In Colorado we're limited to the following:
40 caliber + for Deer, bear and Antelope
For Elk - Moose Caliber must be .50cal +

Porjectiles must weigh 170 grains minimum. If greater than a .50cal, projectile must weigh 210 grains minimum.

Sabots are illegal
Scoped are illegal
pellet powder is illegal
No electronic ignition muzzle loaders
No smokeless Powder

Im from Southern CO myself.

I shoot a CVA Accura , CVA Accura V2, CVA Apex, CVA Wolf, CVA Optima for inlines and the sidelocks we shoot are a Cabelas hawken, CVA Hawken, CVA Mountain Stalker .54 and a traditions kentucky flintlock.

I'd highly suggest either the New Optima, Accura or V2 Accura.

As for Bullets, Any of the guns i listed above will shoot the .500" Thor conical in either 250gr or 300gr. These are actually made by Barnes but sold under the Thor brand name. www.thorbullets.com
 
The great thing about modern muzzleloaders is they don't really hold their value like other guns. When the latest and greatest comes along, you can usually go out and pick up a used, usually lightly "last seasons fad gun" for a fraction of what it cost new. There are plenty of good guns out there. I have two inlines that are close to 15 years old. A plain jane Knight Wolverine and a Remington 700. Each shoot very well. I'd guess you could pick either up for well under 200 bucks. I also have a Thompson Grey Hawk sidelock. It also shoots great no matter what you stick in it...balls, bullets, sabots. With open sights hitting a paper plate everytime at 100 yards from a sandbag is easy. I'd guess a used one would be around 100 bucks.
 
FrontierGander - Thanks for the reply. I'll definitely look into those. I hope "Cabelas hawken" was made by CVA, otherwise it would feel very left out! :)

ColtPythonElite - Is there anything in particular to watch out for on a used muzzleloader? Assuming I wouldn't buy anything more than a few years old.
 
The biggest thing is to make sure it has been cleaned properly after use....basically if it isn't rusty, it's probably good to go.
 
'Rust' - Check... :)

I'm not familiar with the ignition systems of most of these. Is there anything that could be ruined or missing that I should watch for? Maybe not, I just don't know. I like to armed with as much information as possible! - Thanks!
 
The ignition simple is pretty simple. They have a nipple that a hammer/bolt smacks. Dependion on the model, the breech plug may or may not screw out of the gun for ease of cleaining....Basically a muzzleloader is a barrel that is threaded on the end. There is a breech plug screwed into that. The nipple screws in to the breechplug. I'd just check to make sure those parts turn freely.
 
My experience dictates a few things:
I don't care for sabots especially in sidelocks. I'm concerned about plastic build up.
I like minie balls for their ease of loading and they are the original "Power-Belt" bullet.
I prefer break-down inlines to bolt action inlines for their ease of cleaning and relatively fewer parts.
I do prefer the 209 primer ignition because they are easier to handle than #11 caps.
At this point my favorite inline is my Lyman Mustang.
 
My current hunting setup is a CVA Optima, Tasco World Class 4x scope, 2 pellets of Pyrodex and a 245 gr aerotip Power Belt. I've killed a bunch of deer with it, all clean kills. I've had other in-lines (Traditions, 2 other older CVA's) but this has been one dependable, accurate, inexpensive, and easy-to-clean firearm. I don't plan on parting with it anytime soon.
 
I'd tell you to get a Lyman Great Plains Rifle and you can get the Hunter model with the faster twist for using Minie balls. A Minie should do everything any sabot can do. Go with the percussion rifle if you are new to the game. I have an old reproduction Parker Hale Enfield and I am dreaming about using it for deer hunting. What do you think of knock down power with a .58 caliber Minie ball? Maybe I would need to get one of those old timer Malcolm scopes to make good on long range shots, but right now I am good to about 100 yds. with open sights.
 
If you end up with a sidelock I'd convert it over to musket caps they much larger allowing for easier handling and a lot more spark than the #11.
In Southern Ohio most game shots are in the 50 yard range due to hilly nature of the land and rather thick undergrowth. I imagine that the plain states and Col. the cover is lighter and the distances are longer.
 
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