Trapped Animals, Gun Safety

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Flintknapper

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O.K., maybe the subject of “being careful” will last longer in the hunting section than it did under General Gun Discussions.

I am not trying to resurrect THAT thread, especially since it got off topic and was (rightfully) locked, but the subject of “safety” when dispatching caught/caged/trapped nuisance animals is worthy of discussion IMO.

Here is a Raccoon I caught in a live trap two mornings ago. The trap you see is typical (or nearly so) of what most folks use (wire mesh on heavier metal frame).

LiveTrap.jpg

Let’s avoid the “ethics” or personal feelings you might have about shooting caged animals, that is a separate subject for another thread.

The focus of this thread is to gather information from folks experienced in trapping animals and safely dispatching them while still in the trap.

We can start with Raccoons….. but the “principles” will apply to most animals commonly caught.

Here is MY contribution, please feel free to add to it or submit yours.

1. Nearly all animals (live trapped) will be in a defensive mode (understandably). This is especially true when you first arrive or when you approach the trap…so let them settle down (if they will) BEFORE you attempt to shoot.

2. IF you need to move the trap from the catch site (often desirable), be careful not to let the animal reach through and grab you (coons are famous for this).

You can ignore all the horrible sounding growls, hissing, biting, etc…BUT watch for paws that easily reach through the mesh. Keep the trap away from your body. Don’t ask me how I know. Bobcats and Coons will make you “pay”!


3. With Raccoons, once you’ve reached a site suitable to dispatch the animal, turn the live trap up on end (trip gate down on ground).

This does two things. It eliminates the possibility the animal (or you) will inadvertently open the trap AND it generally provides you a better shot …since the animal now has a more restricted space.

Also, animals that normally climb (I.E. Raccoons, Squirrels, Possum, etc) will almost always do so in the trap, see pic below.

caught_2.jpg


4. Make sure you have a clear/safe area beyond the animal. Try to take the shot at as steep a downward angle as possible. EXPECT the bullet to exit the animal, though it might not.

5. NEVER take the shot from a “distance”. IF possible, literally place the muzzle of the firearm between the mesh of the wire. Yes, you’ll have to reposition several times; the animal will likely move (some) and will be watching you. Take your time.

6. DON’T open the trap until you are certain the animal has expired. CNS (central nervous system) shots are advised (I.E. brain pan or spine in the neck).

7. Small animals are best dispatched with .22 rimfire (or similar) ammunition. My preference is to use a rifle because you can use its length to keep distance between you and the animal. With a pistol…you have to be right upon it…which causes the animal to move (in defense).



I have taken hundreds of Raccoons, Bobcats, Fox, etc…from live traps and have yet to injure myself (with the firearm) BUT it is possible in a number of ways.

Besides having a bullet fragment ricochet/rebound….or a piece of wire mesh hit you, other items such as rocks or gravel could become projectiles if struck by the bullet, so be careful.

Use common sense when handling the trap as well as your firearm. NEVER do the two things together.

If you are moving the trap…then do THAT only. Your firearm should NOT be in your hands or where it can be knocked over.
 
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I concur with what you've said.

However, "Uh, oh, Art's got a story." :D

I caught a raccoon in a trap quite similar to yours. I didn't want to kill it, but I did want to show it to some neighbors whose background was Purely City.

So, after they'd looked their fill, I eased the lock bar up and raised the trap's door. The coon, being pointed the wrong way, and rather calm since nobody had done anything either noisy or harmful, was quite quiescent. I finally jiggled the trap enough for him to finally figure out, "Oh! I can go now!"

He waddled off at a rather slow rate of scuttle. I had all the time in the world to have shot him, had I wished.

But be assured that I was cautious about where I put my dainty, delicate little fingers during all this pleasure. :)

Bobcats and coyotes are a whole different deal. .22 to the head and then sit back and wait quite patiently. Never be in a hurry when messing with critters.
 
If you going to move a trap, it's always best to cover it. This (darkness) calms them down. The last varmit I caught was a skunk. My dad asked me how I was going to handle it. I had watched animal control handle them on a weekly basis, so I know what to do. I approached the cage from the solid door size so it could not see me. I placed the cover over the cage and gave it a minute to calm down. This one had not sprayed in some time so there was little to no odor. Shooting a skunk is very risky on having one spray. My dad was very grateful that it did not spray since it was 10' from the house.
 
When trapping, I usually take a headshot with a .22 rifle. I don't use cage traps, only conibears or coilspring traps. I'll put the critter noose around their neck, pin them down, then shoot them and release the noose. Conibear kills by itself.
 
I like to use .22 short subsonic(CCI CB @750fps) for this. It's still powerful enough to penetrate the skull and brain and IF it passes through the head, the chances of riccocet/fragmentation injuring you are greatly reduced as opposed to a full power .22 long rifle round.
 
I made my live trap an easy open bar, it was just a bar i bolted onto the door so that i can open the door while standing over the trap the critter would step out head first and i would dispatch it there, no risk of damaging the trap or richochets or the ethic bashing of killing a caged animal. Also helped out if the first round didnt kill em instantly there was no thrashing around in a cage and trying to dispatch it then, that is a mess and a danger right there.
 
Trapping indoors v. outside . . .

A few things I've learned from the experiences of others (my favorite learning technique — although I've certainly made more than my share of mistakes):

If a raccoon gets into your attic, don't trap it in the attic. You'll then have to work the cage out of the attic with a live raccoon inside. As Flintknapper notes, in the event they get a paw through the cage and lay it on your body, you will regret it.

Try to find out how they're getting in/out and place the trap outside near that point.

If you put a cage trap on the roof, secure a board under it. The board should extent several inches beyond the base of the trap in all directions. If you don't do this, the raccoon will scratch through the bottom of the trap and destroy the section of the roof below.

After you get the trap down to the ground, everything Flintknapper says about dispatching the animal applies.
 
I trapped a boar with 5 piglets recently. I didn't wanna hassle with the piglets, didn't wanna shoot 'em, so I shot the boar first. I'd never release a grown pig, way too risky. But, that shot got the piglets REAL scared and, I guess, figuring they were next. I had a motorcycle tie down with hook that I had to lace through the wire to the door of the trap. I had to do that without getting bit as one piglet kept charging me to the wire and I'd run him back by being ugly, which for me, ain't hard. Finally got the tie down hooked, stood behind the trap and opened the door and ran 'em out one and two at a time and they HAULED off into the brush. I was thinkin' it would be fun to play "pig trap" with 'em if I'd had a buddy and some 3 buck in my 20 gauge. "PULL!" "EEEEK, EEEEEK, BOOM!" Twas just a thought, though. :D
 
der Teufel wrote:


If you put a cage trap on the roof, secure a board under it. The board should extent several inches beyond the base of the trap in all directions. If you don't do this, the raccoon will scratch through the bottom of the trap and destroy the section of the roof below.

Yep,

Coons seem to have a built in instinct to "dig/claw" their way out. My traps are always full of dirt, leaves and pinestraw from the coons doing just that.

I'll post a pic next time I trap one. In fact, I need to go check a trap right now.
 
Follow up pic.

As der Teufel pointed out in his post, raccoons will almost always claw at the bottom of a live trap, so take that into consideration when you place it.

The picture below was taken this morning and is typical of the debris (grass, dirt, sticks, etc) a coon will pull into the trap as it attempts to claw/dig its way out. No harm there, but a rooftop might be different story.

TC2.jpg

To reiterate a previous point, once you are ready to shoot the animal, it can be helpful to place your trap up on end, rather than leaving it flat. This limits their movement and lessens the chance of making a bad shot.

TC4.jpg


I chose to use a .22 pistol (this time) to dispatch the raccoon….and as I posted before; it was markedly more difficult to get a good shot.

Each animal has a threshold with respect to how close it will let you approach before they go on the defensive.

I had wanted to get a few pics to show how they react, but it was just too difficult (besides unnecessarily upsetting the animal). Anyway, the point is….if you have a rifle….use it.
 
Are you dispatching a pest/nusiance animal or trapping for fur. You posted in Hunting so I'm not sure.

Not sure where fire arms saftey plays in any of this. You dont want to get scratched/bitten/sprayed by what you caught, don't shoot it in the cage and let it get far enough away to dispatch it safley.

I'll go along with upending the trap if you just want it out, to shoot with a .22or such.

If your trapping for fur, cruel as it sounds drown the animal in a barrel or such. Most fur buyers dont want holes in the hide. (Peta go away!)

I dont run a trap line anymore but I have, and every set is different and may require a different means of dispatch.

Every thing your showing is a Live box trap but that doesn't always mean your releaseing the animal live in the wild. I'd be more likely to call that relocating the animal if that is what you mean.
 
azwizard wrote:

Are you dispatching a pest/nusiance animal or trapping for fur. You posted in Hunting so I'm not sure.

Nuisance animals in this case. Six Raccoons climbing the leg of a feeder and spinning out about 12-15 lbs. of corn a night.

Not sure where fire arms saftey plays in any of this.
This thread was meant to pick up on another thread that was locked, involving a man "allegedly" having shot himself twice while trying to dispatch a raccoon in a live trap. :rolleyes:

You dont want to get scratched/bitten/sprayed by what you caught, don't shoot it in the cage and let it get far enough away to dispatch it safley.
No problem with any of the above if you follow my suggestions. I've done it hundreds of times over a span of 40 years. I can tell you from experience (relocating trapped animals) they seldom saunter off allowing you any kind of ethical shot. It is not my intention to play "animal skeet" with them.

I'll go along with upending the trap if you just want it out, to shoot with a .22or such.
No, I don't want it OUT, I want it STILL in a smaller area than before.


If your trapping for fur, cruel as it sounds drown the animal in a barrel or such. Most fur buyers dont want holes in the hide. (Peta go away!)
Not trapping for fur, but if I were...a .22 short or CB CAP is what I use. Never been docked for one small hole in the head of hide.


I dont run a trap line anymore but I have, and every set is different and may require a different means of dispatch.
Yes, I know, you are talking to a trapper.

Every thing your showing is a Live box trap but that doesn't always mean your releaseing the animal live in the wild.
I never suggested such. I am in fact showing you a way to get a better/safer shot than what some folks do (the point of the thread).


I'd be more likely to call that relocating the animal if that is what you mean.
That is not what I mean. I have a reasonable grasp of the English language...and when I intend to "relocate" an animal I will use that word. ;)



Thank you for your contribution, (I think).

Flint.
 
.22 short to the brain has always worked for me. Solid point Long Rifles for Hogs. And don't shoot the wire!!!
 
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Yes, definitely "don't shoot the wire"! :D

In the original News (?) story that prompted this thread...and older gentleman somehow managed to have a bullet ricochet off the live trap and come back to hit him. That caused him to drop his pistol...which supposedly fired and struck him again. :rolleyes:

I have a strong suspicion the real story is a bit different....but it does point to a need to examine the best (safest) way to dispatch animals within the small confines of your typical live trap.

Your advice to not shoot the wire is an important first step.

I had another Raccoon trapped this morning and this one was particularly annoyed with his circumstance. Even though I stood the trap on end (limits his movement and encourages him to climb) he was still very active.

CoonTrap2.jpg

I chose (again) to use a pistol...to see just how more difficult it is than using a rifle. The difference is significant IMO.

In order to avoid shooting any of the wires (large in the framework) you have to place the muzzle of the weapon right on the trap.

When you do that...the animal (in this case a coon) will feel especially threatened since you are so close to it. Lots of growling, hissing, snapping of teeth, reaching for the weapon, biting at the cage, general movement!

It was my natural reaction to pull the pistol back each time the animal growled and lunged at the cage. That in itself...is not conducive to good gun safety.

I finally distracted the Raccoon by rubbing a small limb on the side of the cage and was able to get a good shot, but my experiments using a pistol are over.

Its just too stressful on the animal and not an expedient way to achieve my goal.
 
We had a fellow who was the guest of my hunting buddy. On our deer lease a few years ago. Shot the wire on a hog trap with his 1911 .45 ACP. That bullet buzzed off to God knows where. My buddy looked at me and said three words, "get the .22"
 
I live trap/dispatch about 15 to 20 nusence Woodchucks a year and a .22 Sub Sonic round works well.
Lately though, some rabid woodchucks have been reported locally so I carefully handle the expired animal and the trap with heavy duty rubber gloves.
 
Zeke, what do your traps look like?

Any tips on getting a good clean shot? I am guessing Woodchucks would be a bit less active in a trap than a Raccoon, Fox, Bobcat....but you still have to pick your shot.

I don't really know anything about the Chuck's, what do they weigh?
 
Zeke, what do your traps look like?

Any tips on getting a good clean shot? I am guessing Woodchucks would be a bit less active in a trap than a Raccoon, Fox, Bobcat....but you still have to pick your shot.

I don't really know anything about the Chuck's, what do they weigh?

Flintknapper,
My trap is a LARGE Havaheart with gates on each end.
Normally I'm dealing with "young of the year "chucks who have been tossed out by Mom. and they weigh less than 10 pounds.
I'm only shooting at a range of 6 inches or so and I try not to hit the cage wire.
I control MAINLEY because of my large vegetable garden and because the chucks love it.
Of course , my garden is fenced but a determined Chuck can raise havoc in ONE evening
I have shot AT LEAST 300 chucks in my 35 years on this property.
 
Some other things that I've learned over the years, sometimes the hard way.
For Chucks , I bait with a sliced apple or carrots or cabbage.
Sometimes a cotton ball laced with Vanilla Extract.
To keep Skunks, Racoons and Opossoms out, I routinley keep the trap set ONLY during daylight hours, closing it at nightfall, resetting the trap in the morning.
WHY????
Skunks DO NOT make me a Happy Camper.
 
Zeke, are you in Bucks county? Done a LOT of hunting on some of the Amish farms down there. Noticed (and shot) TONS of groundhogs (woodchucks) around there as well as in the Grantville area (where I lived). Hell there were several times I heated up the .220swift down there just for them! If you want to see a sight, nail a 15 pound Ghog at 100 yards with a 50gr V-Max moving at around 3700fps (after traveling 100 yards) :D
 
Zeke, are you in Bucks county? Done a LOT of hunting on some of the Amish farms down there. Noticed (and shot) TONS of groundhogs (woodchucks) around there as well as in the Grantville area (where I lived). Hell there were several times I heated up the .220swift down there just for them! If you want to see a sight, nail a 15 pound Ghog at 100 yards with a 50gr V-Max moving at around 3700fps (after traveling 100 yards) :D

Been there done that YEARS ago.
Time was when, my Compadres and myself would spend a whole Saturday at some select farms shooting at distances that were up to 400 +yards.
Sadly, the " developers" have taken over and MOST of our shooting fun is gone forever.
Time was WHEN we would set up an Ironing Board for a rifle rest and shoot for HOURS at a bank that was FULL of chuck holes.
Had a friend that had 9 kids and took most of our kills for a food supplement.
 
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Tried Ghog once. Was enough for me :barf: Like you I miss those days of our youth. Race home from school, grab whatever firearm was closest, go out and shoot stuff. Come home with a armload of squirrels, rabbits, whatever, make pappy happy cause you just saved him money for meat, piss mammy off cuzz in your excitement you forgot to take off those damned muddy boots :what: so now you have to skin squirrels with a red butt :mad: Ahhhhhh the good old days :D
 
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