Trigger overtravel adjustment question

[dbshabo]

Just picked up my new S&W 1911 tonight. I read that this gun has an adjustment for trigger overtravel. The owners manual has nothing in it about this adjustment.

I must admit that I'm not sure what overtravel is. Is it the takeup slack before the trigger contacts the sear prior to releasing the hammer or is it the travel of the trigger after the hammer has been released? Pardon my ignorance, I'm learning as I go. There is more takeup slack (I'm sure that's not the correct term) than I expected from this gun.

The trigger has a small hole in the face with what I thought was an allen screw behind it. I thought this was where the adjustment is made. After I looked closer the allen screw looks like a black pin. Anyway I'm confused and looking for help. Thanks for any help given.

Shabo

 

[JoeHatley]

Congrats on getting a SW1911!!

Overtravel is the amount of trigger movement after the sear has been released. Too much, and your sight alignment could be disturbed before the bullet has a chance to get out of the barrel. Bad for target shooting, probably a non-issue for most anything else.

To adjust your trigger, just screw in the allen set screw (1/4 turn at a time) until pulling the trigger doesn't drop the hammer. Than back it out 1/4 turn and Lok-Tite inplace. Double check to make sure the setting is reliable, before the tread locker has a chance to set up.

Best to adjust on the ccnservative side (like the factory did) for target work. For anything else, you might just want to leave it alone.

BTW: The screw is an allen. The factory installed backwards to discurage adjustment. You'll need to do a detail strip and turn it around.

Good Luck...

Joe

 

[Standing Wolf]

BTW: The screw is an allen. The factory installed backwards to discurage adjustment. You'll need to do a detail strip and turn it around.

If that's true, it's reason number 5,387 I wouldn't even consider buying a new Smith & Wesson.

 

[SnWnMe]

Careful with the overtravel adjustment. Too close and the slightest misadjustment will lock out your trigger until you can get the wrench to turn it again.

For the take up issue: While you have the pistol stripped you might want to get a trigger that has a take up adjustment. My Colt has an old Chip unit that had a little tab on the trigger bow to limit take up.

 

[gpo1956]

dbshabo,
Be sure and check to make sure the sear is not rubbing the hammer after you make the adjustment! To test it hold the trigger all the way back and work the hammer back and forth. If there is any bump or resistance felt, back the screw out some more until you can't feel it any more.

 

[TN-popo]

What gpo1956 said...might require more than just a 1/4 turn from no hammer drop.

 

[Sean Smith]

This is mess is exactly why my 1911s don't have those silly adjustment screws in them. Even the $2,000 one.

 

[Tamara]

Standing Wolf,

If that's true, it's reason number 5,387 I wouldn't even consider buying a new Smith & Wesson.

Why's that?

Look, there's two available positions for the overtravel screw: "right" and "wrong." If the factory puts it in the "right" position and then makes it inconvenient for Tommy Tenthumbs to put it in the "wrong" one, what's the beef?

 

[Andrew Wyatt]

If you really want some overtravel adjustment, consider building up your grip safety instead of using an adjustment screw.
The advantage of the grip safety method is it doesn't back out.

 

[Daniel T]

Tamara, I think it's the assumption that "Tommy Tenthumbs" will screw it up. Why offer an option if you're going to make it extremely hard to use?