Triggers and Trigger Control...

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Dave McCracken

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I shot some trap recently with an affable and capable older shooter of some experience.
Lefthanded, he used a standard 1100 and shot it to good effect. However....

His trigger finger was jammed into the guard as far as possible, and he fired by clenching the whole hand. While he hit most of his targets, I'm positive his technique kept him from doing better.
And, while I'm happy to help newbies, I don't offer help to experienced shooters unless they ask for some. One can denigrate another's politics, car,profession, choice of dog or spouse, but do NOT criticize someone's shooting.

I've been shooting so long that I do not recall when I started, it was well before First Grade. Mom had shot smallbores competitively, and I do recall her reminiscing about her propping a 22 rifle up so I could take a shot at a tin can when not long out of diapers.

I had decent trigger technique before puberty, another gift from my folks I didn't appreciate in time to thank them for it.

And from benchrest rifle to "Practical" competition to combat, it has come in mighty handy.

Start with the grip. Best trigger control is NOT done with a white knuckle grip. Best description I know is that one holds the weapon with a grip similar to holding a small bird that one neither wants to hurt nor let escape. IOW,Firm.

And, some folks would do well to review where they grip the shotgun. With your firing hand off a shotgun known to be empty, place the pad of your trigger finger squarely on the trigger, THEN get a grip. Practice this until you hit the right spot automatically. And some folks may need a stock with more curve/less distance back to the grip if they've small hands. Note that a cleaner break may occur if one touches the tip of the trigger rather than the center. Simple leverage.

Next, drop a snap cap or expended shell into the chamber and try to bring your finger straight back. While we want a surprise break on rifles and handguns, here we NEED to have the thing fire exactly when we want it to.

Note that using the tip of the finger instead of the pad(First joint should be just off the right side of the trigger) means less padding to "Muddy" the feel. More precise control results.

A technique like this helps improve one's shooting tremendously. Combined with a clean, light trigger, it's a quantum leap.

Few newer shotguns have good triggers. In part this is due to the economics of mass production, partly due to litigation shy makers letting lawyers design their gun and not shooters.

Most shotguns can benefit from a trigger job done by a qualified smith. This is not DIY. Triggers are easy to mess up, and the nominal cost of having a smith do this is money well spent.

HTH, sing out if there's questions....
 
I need to give the lighter grip and position a chance and see how it works. I also started shooting before 1st grade, but did so without any actual training. As a result, I was shooting using the knuckle instead of finger pad. Once I was taught not to do that, it still took a long time to overcome the bad habit.

Unfortunately, even after all these years, when I get excited, such as shooting trap against a few buddies in a really close match, I tend to catch myself reverting back to using the knuckle joint. It sounds like your grip may prevent me from doing that.
 
After a certain point,progess in shooting consists in the elimination of errors and minor improvements in form. Give this new way 1K rounds to groove in.
 
Dave, I'm not sure i understand your advice about training by putting your finder on the trigger before you get a grip, sounds like a safety violation. I guess i'm not understanding you correctly there.

BTW you've convinced my i need to do a little fluff and buff on the trigger of my 590. Can you pont me to any urls/reference where people have done this sort of thing?
 
Dunno about palm swells, but sculpting the grip to the hand may improve things.

Small hands mean less distance from the front of the grip to the trigger is essential. The closest thing to "One size fits all" may be the straight, English style grip.But, count all the straight grips seen in the hands of hard core top competition shooters. Right, not many.

The Etchen grip has the curve of the front actually coming forward. These have their following, but I think part of the allure has to do with the fact that they aid pulling the shotgun into the cup more than an improved firing hand position.

As for arthritis and Carpal Tunnel, check with a doctor who has some sports injury experience. I'm inclined to believe that some of my neck problems are recoil related, but my doctors are a bunch on non shooters.
 
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Dave - If I may...

curt: Dave, and all of us are sticklers for the 4 rules-Always.

Using a shot gun that has been unloaded, checked and made sure use a "spent" shell...a dead primer, no shot, wad , powder. Or buy a "safety" shell...bright orange dummy shot shell. You can make one and paint it orange.

OK safety precautions taken care of.

Practice the trigger before mount as Dave outlined.

Its the "repetition becomes habit, habit becomes faith" dealie.

Much like dry firing , mag changes, gun swing, shotgun/rifle mounting...

If you stop, put the gun down, answer the phone...STOP, check and recheck the gun--ALWAYS.

Dry practice is good, dummy rds protect firing pins.

4 RULES ALWAYS.

HTH

forgive me Dave for stepping in...
 
73, no umbrage taken. Thanks.

Curt, I do NOT recommend most folks working on their own triggers, the same way most drivers shouldn't work on their brakes.

A good smith will make that Mossy trigger clean and lighter, the $50 or so will be money well spent.
 
Dave, Had a few shotgunners due to recoil suffer the detached retina, neck problems. One due to work related back injury , has been relegated to 410 and 28 ga.

Agree straight stocks are aethestically pleasing, but being the redneck I must be...feel funny to me. So do palm swells...I must really be a redneck. My Citori didn't have, and fit me better.

Couple of old boys with the CTS and arthritis " did some whittlin' and palm swell fittin'.

It all boils down to GUN FIT again I guess. Applies to trigger as well as LOP, drop...etc.

I prefer a Crisp, 4# and on one I had to smooth the edges a bit.

'Nuther thought...when you guys are gearing up for hunting, dry practice snicking off the safety ...don't tell your hunting buds, let 'em jerk and flinch( safety still on) and you can get the birds...oops sorry... ;)
 
I've thought about putting a few wraps of tape around my first knuckle to keep me from being able to slide my finger past the trigger. Think that would help or just do the 1k without it?
 
Hk-
Me personally, I wouldn't.
I have nothing against "teaching aids", but I don't recommend "crutches".

I'll clarify, with new shooters I have placed a felt green stick on pad ( like one uses on cabinet doors) on the side of a handgun, This was to get them to get in the habit of "finger off trigger". As quickly as possible I had them remove, I didn't want them dependent on the felt as a crutch. Actually when one transitioned from revolver to semi It seemed to help...with the sliding action some were afraid of and not sure where a safe place was for the finger when "off trigger". Hey It worked.

I did see one fellow put a "spot" on his trigger ( trap gun). I forget whether it was a raised or indention...but he had injured this finger and sensitivity varied...I call that an "aid".

Like me I'm sure you have cut the trigger finger and used a band-aid...it bugged the fire out of me,personally to get the feel of the trigger.

my .02
 
73, the pinched nerve in my neck could be from recoil, but this body has been subjected to many different kinds of stress.

Arthritis and CT here also, but the latter doesn't bother me much since I gave up Nintendo.

Hk,IMO,practice will groove in that finger position better than tape.

Straight stocks,IME, work fine with loads in accordance with the Rule of 96. With heavier stuff I think a half or full PG aids control best.
 
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73, The Brits came up with this one back when they had an Empire. Basically, it means that a shotgun should weigh 96 times what the charge does.

For instance, a 96 oz shotgun(6 lbs) should be used for a 1 oz load. More weight, too much for easy toting. Much less,lots of kick.
 
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