Trouble getting a group

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h29zo107.jpg Provided your gun shoots 1 MOA with factory ammo your problem is not headspace, flinching, a bad crown, a bad scope or mounting thereof or barrel bedding problems.

IMR 8208 XBR is one of the very few powders I don't weigh individual charges for. After throwing and weighing several dozen charges of this powder I found weights to be so consistent that it wasn't necessary. That said, the weight variations in powder charges you posted above would not explain 4 inch groups. A bullet/powder combination your gun didn't like could definitely cause 4 inch groups; I know from having worked up bunches of loads yearly in a variety of cartridges.

The bullet used for this 200 yard group was plain old cheap Remington Core-Lokts. The brass was all once fired full length resized. I have NEVER weighed cases, bullets, etc. in assembling loads. The only cleaning primer pockets is in a case tumbler. I quite turning necks and uniforming primer pockets a LONG time ago.
 
IMHO:

Big effect on accuracy
1) shoot when there is no wind
2) get a high power scope
3) practice dry firing and keeping cross hairs on bullseye
4) clean out Copper fouling in bore
5) good bullets
6) No expander ball use
7) jam bullet into lands
8) heavy gun and light bullet
9) float the barrel
10) keep barrel cool
11) expensive bull barrels
12) Make sure scope mounts are tight to receiver

Little or no effect on accuracy
1) True the action face
2) true the inner C ring
3) lap the lugs
4) true the bolt face
5) chase the threads
6) speed up the lock time
7) glass bed the action
8) pillar bed the action
9) get a 1 ounce trigger
10) turn the case necks
11) weigh the brass
12) de burr the flash holes
13) weigh each powder charge
14) try different powders
15) use benchrest primers
16) lap the scope rings.
17) Dial in bore when chambering
 
I really appreciate everyones usefull information, soon as I get some more bullets, I will be posting my results, I have eliminated every thing else that would keep me from shooting a tight pattern. Will post pics of the results once I get bullets. I will be using the hornady SST 130 grain. Has any one had good luck with these bullets shooting a .270 and if so what was the recipe. Thanks.
 
Not to change the subject, but I have purchased a rcbs 505 scale and wanted to do the same test as I did with the lee safety powder scale. and this is how it came out, keep in mind I was not trying to get a precise number, just checking the consistancy of it. So from here on out I will weigh each charge. Surely this will help me goup(lol) them a little better.

01.-- 70.8
02.-- 69.9
03.-- 69.7
04.-- 68.9
05.-- 68.8
06.-- 68.8
07.-- 68.6
08.-- 69.1
09.-- 69.6
10.-- 66.0

Just wanted to let every one know that it is not the scale, I have tried every thing to get the lee powder dispencer to throw the same charge, but I don't think it can be done with the lee powder dispencer. So I set the lee powder dispencer to throw lower than the charge I am wanting and powder trickle up to where I need it to be. Works great that way.
 
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My buddy's Savage 110 in .270 win was very sensitive to copper fouling and seemed to foul quickly. It shot great if I removed copper fouling every 30-40 shots. This alone reduce group size from 3+ to 1.5". Also keep in mind that after a thorough cleaning a few "fouling shots" may be necessary to settle things in and develop maximum consistency.

Using a high power scope is also great for load development as it magnifies and makes visible any minor barrel movements. I use a cheap Simmons 6.5-20X for this job. It has proven reliable and stable for me.

I have also found that bedding the action will make noticeable and positive contributions to accuracy.

I also weigh individual bullets for uniformity and weigh each individual powder charge for all of my rifle loading. This is especially critical when doing load development; you are trying to control and minimize all known variables.

Hang a 12" "tail" of tape from the bottom of your target. Use this to gauge the wind; shoot only when the tape hangs limp.

Good luck. By minimizing all variables, shooting all shots from a cold barrel you should be able to get good groups unless the barrel needs work. If you're still having problems have your 'smith check the throat and crown.

Check the stability of the scope mounts and rings. Make sure your scope is good. A bad scope can cause [up to] 4" groups or larger.
 
Woo Hoo finaly got some bullets. Here is how they are grouping @ 100 yds.
I am shooting .270 hornady SST 150 grain. 49 grains OAL is 3.331
I am now shooting off of sand bags, but still want my groups to be tighter. Do you guys think that I am asking to much? Do you guys have any ideas as to improvement, if you need more info, let me know. Thanks.
 

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I would buy the same componet bullets, that you shot the 1" groups with using the factory ammo. Better yet, buy the same factory ammo, reshoot for groups, if your getting 1" groups again, then buy the same weight bullets(and same brand). Get a chronograph reading on the factory ammo, and duplicate it, or use it as a base to start testing. Also duplicate the OAL of the factory suff, and use it as a base for testing.

Good luck!:)
 
I would assume it is me. Get your repeatability on your bench set up and routine down and you will be shooting as good as you can. Things look good.
 
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