Tuner's slurry

[JeffC]

Hi y'all , I got a link from another forum to another link from this forum about a conversation that led to Tuner talkin' 'bout a slurry paste he came up with for lapping 1911s. I've got a parked Springfield that needs schmoothened out some and wondered is this recipe good to use on a complete gun or do you need to remove the hammer and sear? Half the roughness is the disconnector dragging the stripper rail. The same question would apply to revolvers, any danger of this stuff ruining the single action pull of a S&W revolver?

TIA, JeffC

 

[cidirkona]

I dunno... I tried some of that Slurry stuff from Dairy Queen in my 1911 and it didn't work well at ALL.

-Colin

Note to self: don't post when sick/haven't slept in a while

 

[1911Tuner]

Slurry

Howdy Jeff,

It can be used on the whole gun. or the disconnector/cocking rail,
using the flat edge of a medium India stone to knock down any sharp
machining marks first. If the whole gun is tight, coat the lower lug and
slidestop pin, the locking lugs, sides of the chamber and muzzle end of
the barrel where the bushing fits up. If all that's needed is to polish
up the frame and slide rails, load it in, hand cycle it a hundred times,
rinse and reapply a little and shoot the gun.

For a Smith & Wesson revolver, polish the bottom of the rebound slide on
some 600-grit paper on a flat surface...glass will work...Move the slide
in a loose figure 8 pattern, and use a little honing oil. Replace the
rebound slide, and all internals. Put the slurry into the lockwork, replace the sideplate, and shoot the gun a couple hundred times...rinse it all
out, and apply a light oil. Smooth as silk.


Cheers!

Tuner

 

[BluesBear]

OK so tell us about the slurry paste.
Or at least share the link.

 

[1911Tuner]

Slurry Recipe

Easy to make, BluesBear.

Get a small tub of J&B Bore Cleaner and a small bottle of CLP Breakfree.
Squirt a teaspoon or two of the CLP in a cup, and add a little J&B to it.
Mix it well, and keep adding bore cleaner to the oil until the mixture will
just sag off the tip of a screwdriver, but not drip. That amount will
be enough to use on several guns. Any good teflon-based oil will
work, including plain old Mil-Spec LSA, but best results happen with
CLP.

Luck to ya!

Tuner

 

[BluesBear]

Thanks

 

[JeffC]

cidirkona said,

" I dunno... I tried some of that Slurry stuff from Dairy Queen in my 1911 and it didn't work well at ALL."

LOL

Thanks Tuner, by the way is it the 'bore cleaner' or 'bore bright'?

 

[1911Tuner]

Slurry

It's the bore cleaner.

 

[Mossyrock]

This method works.

I took Tuner's advice a couple of months ago and used this method on a couple of Smiths and it worked great. One thing you HAVE to do, however is make SURE you get all of the slurry out of the gun. He suggested carb cleaner, but that didn't work very well for me. I ended up stripping the whole thing down and scrubbing it out with hot water and Dawn dishwashing detergent, then scrubbing it with CLP, wiping everything off and putting it back together. Add a Wolfe spring kit and the result is great!

Patience is the key here. if your finger gets tired, set it aside and come back to it for more dry-firing later. Have fun and keep a rag handy...this is kinda messy.

 

[dsk]

I bought a new Springfield that actually had a tight spot when the slide was cycled. I used the "slurry" paste trick on the rails, and 200 cycles and a pair of sore arms later I had really slicked up the action, eliminating the tight spot as well. If you have a gun that feels like a cheese grater when you cycle it the paste won't help much of course, but for a gun that simply needs that little extra to smooth it out the paste trick is great.

 

[1911Tuner]

re: Cheese Grater

Dana,

For those with that "crushed glass" feel, try light stoning in the contact
areas, and use J&B straight up, without the oil. The local pawn shop
owner called me last month with a stainless Springer mil-spec that was
so bad, they couldn't sell it. I stoned the frame rails lightly, used a tiny
bit of 5 micron garnet lapping compound in the frame/slide ways for about
20 cycles, and followed it up with straight bore cleaner for 300 cycles. The pistol was MUCH smoother, and only about .001 inch looser in fit, which was a little tight to begin with. I used a Dremel with a buffing head and some jeweler's rouge to polish inside the dust cover.

I also cleaned up a few other rough spots and did a few basic reliability
tweaks on the gun. The new owner reports that all is well, and he is very happy with his pistol. He even remarked on how slick it feels.

Luck to ya!

Tuner