Tung oil or BLO for Garand stock-Pro's & cons

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offthepaper

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Any tips for refinishing a stock on a 1955 CMP stock. I already ran it throughthe dishwasher ( can't beleive how well that worked, it was my first time trying this) as it was pretty beat up. It was a Greek return, but still had a walnut stock (although the wood shade varies from piece to piece) I've lightly ran some 0000 steel wool to take off the "peach fuzz" after the DW. Should I try to restain the walnut and the apply the oil, or just go with oil only? Finally, should I use tung oil or BLO? Any pro's and con's of each as far as ease of use, finish, durability. This rifle will never be a show piece, just would like to have a decent looking shooter. Thanks in advance.
 
I have used both. BLO provides a matte finish and need to be reapplied regularly. "Tung Oil" is semi-gloss and provides a harder finish. There are different types of "Tung Oil." I use the "Tung Oil" finish by Minwax. It's really a question of which finish you prefer.
 
As far as staining, that would depend on what it looks like, and what YOU want it to look like. If its a bit too light, I use a Minwax stain called "Natural" which mostly just brings out the contrast (actually it will darken it a little). If you want that deep walnut, use the Minwax Walnut stain (which is quite dark).

As far as oil finishes go, I prefer Tung Oil, although I'm not sure there's that much difference. In addition to gun stocks, I use it alot when re-finishing antique furniture. It's maybe a bit more work, (more applications), but its REALLY durable (and looks great) when you're all done. Just apply with a rag wiping off any excess. you may have to use some 0000 steel wool for the first couple coats, as it may raise the grain.
 
OK, here I go again....;)
Want it to look like this?
WWIIToys.jpg
You start out with Brownells BLO, NOT hardware store BLO. Brownells is boiled TWICE. So it will cure much quicker, and you'll only have 1 week in your project, not two or three with the possability of the oil leaching out of the wood.
I like to start out with a BLO and mineral spirits mix at 50/50 in a squirt bottle. Soak the entire stock down, wipe down lightly, then do it again two or three times and then let it sit overnight.
Next day, take some 220 wet or dry paper and use the 50/50 mix to wet sand the wood. Sand carefully around any cartouches you need to save. As you sand you will see a "mud" form that is the sanding dust and BLO mixing together. DO NOT WIPE THIS OFF THE WOOD! As this "mud" cures overnight, it will fill in the wood grain with natural fillers. Next day, do the same with the 220. You will see where the dried "mud" is, and just keep sanding until it is all sanded off. Again, don't wipe off the wood, and let it sit overnight. Do this about three times, then move up to 320 grit and follow the same procedure about 3 times and then a couple more using 400 grit. On your last sanding, wipe the stock clean with a soft rag, then hand rub in some straight BLO and wipe down smooth with clean rag and let sit overnight. This is one of those processes that lets you see progress with each step, and you might not want to stop. I've seen stocks that looked like glass was poured over it and it was a BLO finish that they took all the way to 2000 grit paper.
 
You don't want pure tung oil. Use a tung oil finish. Even the original Springfield Armory formulated a tung oil finish to use on the stocks after they switched from pure linseed oil.

Behr's Tung Oil Finish #600 is pretty popular in the C&R circles. You may also want to try Danish Oil which is what Dean's Gun Restorations uses on their stocks.
 
ScottsGT, did you use any stain on that Garand?

I have a couple of stocks to refinish this winter and I want them to look like yours. I was just wondering if that was BLO on unstained wood?
 
I use pure tung oil, not a 'finish' with varnish mixed in, I don't like that hard-finish look, plus tung oil is easy to work with and doesn't kill your lungs.
 
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