HUnter58
Member
Here one being auctioned
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/pp-classifieds/showproduct.php?product=199&cat=9
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/pp-classifieds/showproduct.php?product=199&cat=9
Underhammer rifle
- Thread starter baranjhn
- Start date
- Status
underhammer
Blue Grouse is BS. Don't waste any more time there.
Dick Greenside has all new parts to build a good, resonable priced underhammer. Here is link to all info call Richard.
http://www.longrifles-pr.com/;);););)
Blue Grouse is BS. Don't waste any more time there.
Dick Greenside has all new parts to build a good, resonable priced underhammer. Here is link to all info call Richard.
http://www.longrifles-pr.com/;);););)
billnpatti
Member
I have found the best and easiest browining solution is made by Mountain Laurel Forge. It is a cold browning solution. Do not polish your parts beyond about 220 grit emery paper. The browning solution needs a little bit of texture in the metal to work. Something to grab onto. Thoroughly remove all signs of grease or finger prints with acetone. Wipe on a coat of the browning solution and place your barrel in a humid place. I use a piece of 4 inch PVC pipe with a plug in one end. I put a cup of water in the botom and hang the barrel in it. Let it stand for about 24 hours and then remove it and rub it with a rough cloth. A piece of burlap works best. Smooth out the surface rust the best you can. De-grease it again and recoat it with the solution. This time let it set only a couple of hours. The time may vary. When you see another coating of rust, again rub it down with the burlap. Degrease it and re-coat it with the solution. These next few coats will require close watching because as the browning process gets started, it speeds up. Do not let it get away from you or you may get some surface pitting. Once the barrel gets to the degree of brown that you want, just remove it and wash it with a baking soda solution to stop the rusting process. At this point, I thoroughly rub it down with a good gun oil such as Ballistol. If you have it, a good coat of bees wax that is rubbed in and buffed thoroughly is traditional. If you don't have bees wax, you can use any paste floor wax. I like to use a wax called Renaissance Wax. It is available from many gun dealers or fine furniture stores.
The process is not at all difficult but it does require that you keep an eye on it and not let the browning process get away from you once it starts. Laurel Forge makes a nice soft flat traditional brown. If you want a more shiney brown, you can use Plum Brown by Birchwood Casey. If you use it, you can polish the barrel a bit more to get the shiney brown finish. You need something like a propane torch to heat your barrel with to get the browning solution to work. You get the barrel hot enough so that water will sizzle on it. Then you wipe on a coat of the browning solution and let the barrel cool. Polish it with a piece of rough cloth and repeat the process until it is as dark as you like. I have used both and the Laurel Forge cold browning is easier to use but takes longer. For small parts, you can't beat Plum Brown. Just hold them with a pair of pliers over the kitchen stove until they are hot enough and swab on the Plum Brown. Two or three coats and you have a beautifuly browned part. It is the larger parts that are just a bit harder to get evenly heated and coated for an even brown. Oh, you will eventually get there. No doubt about that but it is just harder to heat and coat a large piece like a barrel. At least that is my opinion based upon having browned several rifles and using both Laurel Forge cold browning solution and Plum Brown. Either will get you there but neither is an instant browning solution. Have patience and work carefully and follow the instructions that come with both.
The process is not at all difficult but it does require that you keep an eye on it and not let the browning process get away from you once it starts. Laurel Forge makes a nice soft flat traditional brown. If you want a more shiney brown, you can use Plum Brown by Birchwood Casey. If you use it, you can polish the barrel a bit more to get the shiney brown finish. You need something like a propane torch to heat your barrel with to get the browning solution to work. You get the barrel hot enough so that water will sizzle on it. Then you wipe on a coat of the browning solution and let the barrel cool. Polish it with a piece of rough cloth and repeat the process until it is as dark as you like. I have used both and the Laurel Forge cold browning is easier to use but takes longer. For small parts, you can't beat Plum Brown. Just hold them with a pair of pliers over the kitchen stove until they are hot enough and swab on the Plum Brown. Two or three coats and you have a beautifuly browned part. It is the larger parts that are just a bit harder to get evenly heated and coated for an even brown. Oh, you will eventually get there. No doubt about that but it is just harder to heat and coat a large piece like a barrel. At least that is my opinion based upon having browned several rifles and using both Laurel Forge cold browning solution and Plum Brown. Either will get you there but neither is an instant browning solution. Have patience and work carefully and follow the instructions that come with both.
billnpatti
Member
I am in the process of building an underhammer rifle. When finished, it will have cost me over $500. I bought the action, sights, under barrel lugs, stock, etc from Deer Creek Products. They no longer advertise these parts for sale but if you contact them, they have a few left on the shelves. I had to order the barrel from Long Hammock. The folks at Deer Creek just boxed up my parts and sent them to Riley Smith at Long Hammock in Florida so he could make a barrel for it. For a reasonable fee, he will do as much of the machine work as you want. I had him install the breach plug, the nipple and cut the dove tails for the sights. He has a lot of business so be patient with him. It took almost 6 months to get my barrel made and the machine work done. The barrels are excellent and worth the wait. The rest of the work is not hard and just requires patience and attention to detail. I am almost finished and will soon have mine out to the gun club for a test run.
billnpatti
Member
I am currently building excactly the same rifle as you did. How did you attach your forestock? There is so little clearance between the ram rod and the barrel that the room for underbarrel lugs is almost non-existant. I talked to the guy who owns Deer Creek and he said that some folks drill the pin holes right through the bottom of the barrel. This seems awfully risky to me and I am afraid to try doing it. I am at a point where I am winding my butt and scratching my watch trying to figure out what to do to hold that forestock on. What is your secret?
whats the number for longrifles ? richard ?
that link dont work. [at least not for me]
weet
MutinousDoug
Member
Weet,
Just type in the address. Without the smiley faces. The hot link doesn't work for me either. I don't see any reference to underhammers there though.
Doug
Just type in the address. Without the smiley faces. The hot link doesn't work for me either. I don't see any reference to underhammers there though.
Doug
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