Understanding Bullet Selection

[Bobson]

I'm a bit confused on bullet selection in regards to reloading. I figured there must be a guide out there somewhere, but I haven't seen one. That's what this thread is about.

I was killing some time at Sportsman's Warehouse earlier, and decided to go through the reloading aisles in some detail. While browsing the rifle bullets, I quickly became overwhelmed and realized I have no idea what the differences actually are. I mean, I know some bullets are designed for "rapid, controlled expansion" (like the Ballistic Silvertip - according to the box anyway), and those are best suited for animals like deer and antelope. Other bullets are designed to expand more slowly and retain as much of their weight as possible, with the goal being deep penetration, and these bullets are better suited to animals like elk, bear, etc. Other bullets are best suited and particularly designed for punching paper at 800+ yards.

But which is which? How do you know what a particular bullet is best suited for? Nosler Partitions, Accubonds, Winchester Silver Tips, E-Tips, Yellow Tips, etc.

I realized I needed help when I looked at the factory ammo and found that Federal makes a .270 Win load with a 130 grain Nosler Partition, and claims it's suited for antelope and small deer; but they make a .30-06 load with the same bullet (180 grains) and say it's suited for elk and bear. I know a more powerful rifle is better suited to bigger game (generally), but isn't bullet choice even more important that bore size?

Is there a resource that clarifies all this? I can't imagine that people simply buy random types of bullets until they find something that works, without some sort of knowledge of where to start, at least.

 

[KansasSasquatch]

If you really want to know what type of bullet design to use for certain animals or targets, the easiest way to get that information is to check out bullet manufacturer websites. Nosler, Hornady, Barnes, etc all list that type of information.

Lets say you want a good .30-06 load for white tail deer. Go to the various manufacturer websites and see what they recommend from their products. You might have to buy bullets from 2-3 manufacturers and try 2-3 different powders before you find a load that you and your rifle like. The trick is to buy small boxes of bullets, 50-100, to test out. Once you find a load that you really like, invest as much as you can afford and justify, into the components that the load requires. Just remember that you may only shoot 1-2 deer per year, but what happens if your scope gets knocked out of whack or breaks. You'll have to re-sight it in. So you might think that 1lb of powder and 100 bullets is going to last a lifetime of deer hunting, but its always helpful to have at least some extra.

 

[gamestalker]

Really, your best source of understanding the bullets available in today's modern world of reloading, is to simply log onto the manufacturer's web site. I have been over whelmed as well by all these different varieties. And even those sites where the description is covered, we still don't know just how well it will perform until we load some and test drive them.

Another fairly good way to learn is to ask other reloaders who hunt, or punch paper, how they like this or that bullet. As for me, I test them at various distances and velocities on paper, and then I test them on game to see how they perform. But in most cases I've found that most bullets will shoot much better than I can. And as for hunting, the best bullet for hunting game, is the one that I manage to put in the kill zone. In other words, most deer and other game will never know the difference if you do your job.

But there are some exceptions when planing an elk or other large animal hunt. I will use a bonded bullet or other type that is intended for large game. And when I'm loading for something like a varmint hunt, coyotes and such, I like to use a light weight hollow point, so I can watch the animal literally explode. As for punching paper, bullets like Berger, and other precision match grade projectiles are capable of offering just a bit more in terms of consistent accuracy. But i have personally also found many standard grade bullets will still produce excellent groups is I do my job. Like most average shooters, most bullets will shoot better than I can.

For me, I find this aspect of reloading the most fun. Just having the ability to build a load and then test it on paper, is what makes reloading all worth it. So don't let yourself become over whelmed by all the options, and instead just take it one step at a time, and try to enjoy the process.

One last thing that will help you in determining what works best for you and your rifle, is keep a log that details the specifics of each load you've worked up. It saves a bunch of time and money down the road when returning to that bullet, powder and firearm.
GS

 

[Bobson]

Thanks guys. I actually haven't started reloading yet, just doing some homework first. I always write down everything I find out though, especially if I know I'll need to reference it later. I wanted to get started on building "shopping lists" of components I know I'll need for specific loads, with regards to bullet/powder combinations. That way, once I'm ready to go, I just need to reference the different potential loads for each purpose, and get started without wasting time or money.

Thanks again.

 

[kingmt]

Keep in mind there is a science to bullet length, twist rate, & speed. It is a a+b=c thing. If you change a then b or c have to change also to stabilize. It also applies to jacket separation/expansion.

 

[jjjitters]

I get the twist rate of the barrel and that dictates what weight range of bullets I try. For medium game the soft points types works good, certain plastic tipped work also(E-tips) as long as they are designed for medium game and have thicker copper jacket to slow expansion, for elk or bear I highly recommend Barnes solid copper for max penetration , bonded works well also. The bullet mfg are the best source for what kind of expansion each bullet is designed for. Time and experience is what it also takes to "just know" which bullets work for what game.

 

[splattergun]

I entered metallic reloading about 18 months ago knowing nothing about bullets. I knew which factory loads I liked to hunt and shoot with, but that was it. I thought I might be able to duplicate those at a lower cost, so that's where I started. It didn't take long until my home-built Core-Lokt loads were shooting tighter than factory.

Meanwhile, I was reading. A lot of reading. Here at THR, manufacturers websites, other forums and manuals. I learned more about what bullets are good for a specific result. I found a few other bullets to try. Some I like, some I don't, or rather my rifles don't like. I've also tried different powders. Those bullets and powders that didn't make the cut don't just sit on the shelf, I use them for practice rounds where 'close enough' counts, like practicing shooting from field positions.

For me, trying different projectiles and propellants is part of the fascination. I learn from each new combination I try.

 

[41 Mag]

When I set out to load up a new caliber or to work up a new load I usually start with the intended purpose of the load. If it's vermin, I look at the light weight bullets, for medium game up to say 250# or so, I go with the medium for caliber weight, and for bigger or heavier boned critters I go with the heavy for caliber weights.

That said, when starting out with a .243, there rally isn't much wiggle room, nor with a .270. There could be a big overlap depending on what the caliber might be. With some of the more popular calibers like 7mm or 30, there is a good selection from light to heavy weight bullets from most manufacturers. As for quick expansion vs controlled expansion, look for the classic bullets, ie, the Nosler Partition or the Barnes types. These have a proven track record of positive expansion in most cases even on deer sized game with the ability to drive deep for bigger game. So with the .270 Partition load you looked at, it should be good from deer up to elk sized game. While not entirely recommended for the bigger stuff, where the shot hits is what counts. Those Partitions have been dropping game for nearly 50yrs or so, with almost boring regularity. In a word they simply work.

When I worked up the loads for my then new 25-06 some 20'ish plus years ago, the ballistic tip was just out. I loaded up the 100gr and it shot awesome groups at 200yds of less than an inch regularly. The load from this rifle moved them along at a nice 3350 from the muzzle. This was all fine and good until I nearly blew the first doe I shot with them in two. From there I decided to go with a bit heavier load and bumped up to the 115gr Partition. This load ran just over 3150 from the rifle and zeroed at 200yds was easily as accurate as the 100gr BT load. Not only that but I found that using the Leupold scope as more or less a range finder, if the deer fit in the small cross hair, I needed to hold with the thick portion of the post right where I wanted to hit and it was a done deal. The Partition was used from then on out even when I went to CO for Muley's and Elk. I had no issues with putting on where it needed to go and knew it would do the job. There again, I knew my limitations as well as the loads so I wasn't going to push my luck on the bigger elk and had set a 200yds max range. The problem was I never saw one, but the mule deer I DID take was a longish 40yd at most shot, straight down the mountain side, right in the bottom of the throat patch. All he did was drop, and that was that.

Go with the known common place game getter bullets, and you will be MUCH better off than using some of the newer higher priced bullets, that just have to be the best known to mankind. Remember those straight up cup and core bullets have been dropping game reliably for many years, and even they have gotten better though time as well. The Cor-Lokt, and PowerPoint, have put who knows how many head of game on the ground as has the Sierra Game King, the Speer Hot Core, Hornady Spire Point, and similar types. They might not be the newest on the block, but they all have a valid track record when used within the capability of the gun and shooter. You have to figure if you can afford to shoot more of a specific bullet, which you can with the plain jane types, you will be more accurate, and more confident when you are hunting. With some of the "Premium" types where you pay 35-40 bucks per 50, it's hard to justify sitting at the range running through 25-100 rounds just target practicing.

 

[kingmt]

Bigger bullet doesn't have add much to do with penetration as jacket construction & speed. Slower bullets penetrate deeper. Bigger bullets are slower.

I can slow down a varmint bullet to get complete penetration. I actually love these V-Max for deer hunting.

 

[jmr40]

Standard jacketed lead bullets such as Hornady Interlokt, Remington Corelokt, or any other standard bullets work just fine for most people, most of the time.

Premium bullets cost more, and do offer advantages when extra perfromance is needed. If you want to shoot at game at ranges around 400 yards or farther, or if you hunt larger game, especially with a gun that is borderline on power, the premium bullets are worth the expense.

Bullets such as the Hornady SST, Berger, and Nosler Ballistic Tip are very aerodynamic and shoot flatter and maintain energy better at long range. Most of these expand rapidly when they impact. At close range they may expand too rapidly and not penetrate well. But at longer ranges will expand better than standard bullets. Generally best on deer sized game, but will work just fine as long as you get a broadside shot and can get one into the lungs on larger game. Not good choice for shots at odd angles on larger game like elk where you have to get very deep penetration to hit vitals. This would include most of the plastic tipped bullets except the Barnes bullets.

The Nosler Partition was the 1st bullet designed to hold together and penetrate well while still giving good expansion. It is still the bullet all others are judged by for this. Not the most aerodynamic and not the best choice for extreme long range, but a very good choice for larger game where deep penetration is needed. Any of the solid copper bullets such as the Barnes will do similar.

The Nosler Accubond is one of the better all around bullets in my opinion. You get the same aerodynamics as the Ballistic Tip with the deep penetration of the Partition.

I certainly wouldn't shoot the premiums for playing around at the range, but considering how few shots are actually shot at game while hunting I don't think they are a bad idea, even if I don't need the performance. I can practice with Hornady SST's at about 25-30 cents per bullet. Some of the premiums have about the same trajectory, but cost 50 cents to $1 per shot. I wouldn't want to plink at the range with those bullets, but an extra 20-75 cents for a bullet that performs better on game is cheap insurance.