Water Glass(Sodium silicate) for paper cartridges

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Pyrodex should be easily ignited. The paper showing no sign of char is very strange. You tried several caps? Obviously you checked for obstruction. Are you only pushing the paper cartridge in by hand ? If so, try again and using the loading lever to push the paper cartridge home. Also, would be very helpful if we could see a picture of one of your paper cartridges.
 
RPRNY said:
Pyrodex should be easily ignited. The paper showing no sign of char is very strange. You tried several caps? Obviously you checked for obstruction. Are you only pushing the paper cartridge in by hand ? If so, try again and using the loading lever to push the paper cartridge home. Also, would be very helpful if we could see a picture of one of your paper cartridges.
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Well I decided the making of the cartridge just for the powder was a lot of time, and may or may not work. Yes the cartridge I made was seated with a wad and ball like I said above. Yes two caps and the nipple cleaned out no go. The plastic tubes will do the job.
My search on here earlier told me I was not the only one having issues. Must need to be perfected and I just want to go shooting and not have to measure at the range.
 
Before I nitrated my paper cartridges there would be left unburned paper in the chambers that wanted to get pushed down and get in the way of the flash hole.
 
I wanted to try this for two reasons. One is authenticity, I had read in the Dixie Gun Works catalog that some original paper cartridges used nitrated papers + water glass. I didn't know water glass could damage the bore over time, perhaps they weren't concerned with that back in the day or perhaps they were just unaware. The other reason was because I already tried making paper cartidges out of cigarette papers + glue stick and they didn't work very well. The first cylinder full would go off just fine but there would be a lot of unburnt paper and subsequent loadings had a lot of misfires.
 
Yesthat is what I fo
LonesomePigeon said:
I wanted to try this for two reasons. One is authenticity, I had read in the Dixie Gun Works catalog that some original paper cartridges used nitrated papers + water glass. I didn't know water glass could damage the bore over time, perhaps they weren't concerned with that back in the day or perhaps they were just unaware. The other reason was because I already tried making paper cartidges out of cigarette papers + glue stick and they didn't work very well. The first cylinder full would go off just fine but there would be a lot of unburnt paper and subsequent loadings had a lot of misfires.
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That is what I found to happen also.
 
44 Dave said:
Yesthat is what I fo

That is what I found to happen also.
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In the 1860 Army not only did I have misfires with the paper cartridges, I tried two cylinders worth, after switching to loose powder for another 24 shots, I was pulling paper fragments from the chamber bores while wet scrubbing the cylinder bores with a small bottle type brush. I used cigarette papers. Conversely 12 shots in a 36 cal G&G worked great, no misfires and no left behind paper fragments. So for my part think Ill stick to the premeasuring the powder into soft plastic tubes from Winchester Suttler that I've been using for a few years now.
 
whughett said:
In the 1860 Army not only did I have misfires with the paper cartridges, I tried two cylinders worth, after switching to loose powder for another 24 shots, I was pulling paper fragments from the chamber bores while wet scrubbing the cylinder bores with a small bottle type brush. I used cigarette papers. Conversely 12 shots in a 36 cal G&G worked great, no misfires and no left behind paper fragments. So for my part think Ill stick to the premeasuring the powder into soft plastic tubes from Winchester Suttler that I've been using for a few years now.
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Ditto, I can see tearing the paper and dumping the powder in and the ball on top. It seems to be a lot of work just to avoid using the pre-loaded tubes.
 
Most often I use wrapping paper dipped in a hypersaturated water of potassium nitrate (KNO3) and dried (it looks like fiberglass when it's dry) and glued with a little sodium silicate sold per liter In-store for collage and many other utilities ...
The collage is fast, holds hard and burns perfectly, I also use this method for the linen cartridges of my rifle Sharps and the paper also goes very well and everything burns perfectly. The powder is 60gn of black powder from switzerland 2Fg ...

If that can help....

GDCv2uT1FPm_Linen-Sharps.jpg
 
Some papers I tried left residue, but the zigzags in the blue pack seemed to work pretty good for me. Very thin, but much tougher then they look as well... PITA to make em, but then so is standing out in the blazing sun fiddling around with powder all day LOL
 
sharps59 said:
personally would rather carry 100 plastic tubes to a match than to have toi roll 100 paper rounds and carry them to a match.
time wise.
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The tubes I reference are a a softer rubbery compound, thinner at the mouth and when the ball or conical is inserted it grips very well. I've done drop test from sholder height to the garage floor and no spillage. I prefill 48 at home and carry to range in a wooden box as part of my normal kit. Were I a hunter afield I would be confident carrying a supply in a suitable pocket size container.
 
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