Weak Primers

C Younger

C Younger

Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2017
Messages
216
Has anyone had an issue with weak WSR primers? I loaded up some wax .38spl cartridges by melting wax and placing some .38 casings mouth down until the wax cooled. I then used WSR primers as the only propellant.
About 1/3 of the rounds failed to fire so I disassembled the duds to see what was up. One of them had pushed the wax slug out of the case very gradually. Another still had pressure behind the slug because it hissed at me as I disassembled it. The remainder had black dust indicating that they had popped, but didn’t have enough pressure to do anything.
These primers are about 7 years old and haven’t been stored in any extreme conditions. I’m not really expecting BR primer performance, but I didn’t think they would very by that much. Can they still be relied on to ignite powder consistently?
 
When I first started trying my hand at cowboy fast draw I tried using LPP to propel them. I got similar results. Then I drilled out the 45 Colt cases to use shotgun primers. I was also using cast wax bullets that were pushed into the cases. Not a problem with any. I have since learned you need to drill out the flash holes to prevent the primers from backing out. This also allows more pressure to go into the case. Just do not ever use these modified brass with regular loads again. The remainder of the first primers I first tried worked normally when used with my normal loads after the experiment.
 
I have never used small rifle primers in pistol cases, and I am going to claim, that is your problem.

Either a dimensional problem such as wider cup that makes the primer difficult to seat to the bottom of the cup. The primer anvil must be resting on something hard, and the gap between anvil and cup set.

Or, the rifle cup is thicker than the pistol cup and your pistol ignition system does not have the power to reliably deform the cup and ignite the primer cake,
 
Slamfire said:
I have never used small rifle primers in pistol cases, and I am going to claim, that is your problem.

Either a dimensional problem such as wider cup that makes the primer difficult to seat to the bottom of the cup. The primer anvil must be resting on something hard, and the gap between anvil and cup set.

Or, the rifle cup is thicker than the pistol cup and your pistol ignition system does not have the power to reliably deform the cup and ignite the primer cake,
Click to expand...
Dimensionally SPP and SRP are identical and they were seated flush. There was no ignition failure as there was residue from detonated primers and in some cases residual pressure.
 
FROGO207 said:
When I first started trying my hand at cowboy fast draw I tried using LPP to propel them. I got similar results. Then I drilled out the 45 Colt cases to use shotgun primers. I was also using cast wax bullets that were pushed into the cases. Not a problem with any. I have since learned you need to drill out the flash holes to prevent the primers from backing out. This also allows more pressure to go into the case. Just do not ever use these modified brass with regular loads again. The remainder of the first primers I first tried worked normally when used with my normal loads after the experiment.
Click to expand...
I should have explained initially that I drilled out the flash holes. I May need to give the shotgun primers a try.
 
C Younger said:
I should have explained initially that I drilled out the flash holes. I May need to give the shotgun primers a try.
Click to expand...
The unanilized variable is the glue. The temprature probably varied during the injection period, and cleanliness variation is huge dealing with adhesives. Probably get much more consistent results with nylon rod plugs or plastic bullets.
 
I doubt there is anything wrong with the primers
Primers are designed to ignite powder not push out wax "bullets"
Wax probably softened and did not seal to keep enough pressure in the case.
 
C Younger said:
Has anyone had an issue with weak WSR primers? I loaded up some wax .38spl cartridges by melting wax and placing some .38 casings mouth down until the wax cooled. I then used WSR primers as the only propellant.
About 1/3 of the rounds failed to fire so I disassembled the duds to see what was up. One of them had pushed the wax slug out of the case very gradually. Another still had pressure behind the slug because it hissed at me as I disassembled it. The remainder had black dust indicating that they had popped, but didn’t have enough pressure to do anything.
These primers are about 7 years old and haven’t been stored in any extreme conditions. I’m not really expecting BR primer performance, but I didn’t think they would very by that much. Can they still be relied on to ignite powder consistently?
Click to expand...
Drill out the flash holes for cases using the wax and things should get better. We used those 50 years ago to train when we couldn't get to the range. They were definitely helpful and fun, but the wax has gotten pricey.

WSR primers work probably the best in revolver cartridges of all the small rifle primers for me, Used 20,632 WSR primers between 32-20, 357 magnum and 38 special rounds.
 
You are effectively gluing the wax into the case.
Try just pressing the cases into solid wax to cut out the slugs. You also want a mostly full case of wax as air space will drop primer pressure.
You may not need to go with shotgun primers.
 
We would take primers and 38 special cases with the neck beveled more than usual, use Lee hand primer and Gulf paraffin wax. Prime the cases and push them into the bar of wax, most time get 50 to a block. Practicing quick draw you could find problems with your draw, without having a hole in your leg. ;)

PSA: don't shoot them at other individuals because they will leave a welts.

E9C348F8-BDE9-4600-9A40-D364F51CBF15.jpeg
 
dannyd said:
We would take primers and 38 special cases with the neck beveled more than usual, use Lee hand primer and Gulf paraffin wax. Prime the cases and push them into the bar of wax, most time get 50 to a block. Practicing quick draw you could find problems with your draw, without having a hole in your leg. ;)

PSA: don't shoot them at other individuals because they will leave a welts.

View attachment 1167980
Click to expand...
Just when you think you’ve seen it all…something like this comes along!
 
dannyd said:
We would take primers and 38 special cases with the neck beveled more than usual, use Lee hand primer and Gulf paraffin wax. Prime the cases and push them into the bar of wax, most time get 50 to a block. Practicing quick draw you could find problems with your draw, without having a hole in your leg. ;)

PSA: don't shoot them at other individuals because they will leave a welts.

View attachment 1167980
Click to expand...

"PSA: don't shoot them at other individuals because they will leave a welts."

This made me laugh.... :)
 
That 'NRA Handloader's Guide' and the later edition 'Handloading' were great references. Mine were lost in The Incident. I see they are readily available on eBay and Abe, an easy replacement.
Also the 'NRA Gunsmithing Guide' in two editions. Hmm.

I furnished a friend with a box of .38s loaded with the X Ring rubber bullets. I don't think she ever shot them before moving on to .380 and 9mm automatics.
 
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